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Originally Posted by JC-jetro John,
You had many questions all over the place. I'll try to address them in some half organized method. I'll have it in a bullet form. A lot are general in nature and may or may not help
.JC, |
O,K, sorry I was all over the place JC, I know most of that stuff you referred to, except testing the diode, and that the DC comes from AC, that's new to me.
It really comes down to confirming first that the alternator is or is not putting out (which I suspect it is not) if it is then from my past experience it would most likely be the regulator.
Do you have a simple generic test for alternator, there's only 2 large posts and a couple of small wires on it and like I said I tried reading DC volts off both the large posts where I would think the output would come from, had black probe of meter to ground and red on each of the posts, nothing from the larger ones and only 12 volts from the smaller ones which I believe was just reading back from the battery.
Should I maybe trying to read AC volts (if it is pre diode) battery reads just 12 volts when running or not, the idiot light (bulb is known good) never came on for test or for failure of charging system so maybe that's a clue, is there a fuse or relay that could cause that situation.
Also, unrelated, I read where you referred to there being oil in the injector pump if so I should check/change it, I took for granted that it was lubed from the engine oil like on my other diesels, I do see 2 phillips screws, one above the other that look like they could be drain and a level holes?
When I referred to cranking engine 25 times I meant I started it that many times, maybe only 15-20 times (exaggeration factored in) since I put the new 820 CCA battery in, the last few starts I noticed it cranking slowly, then not enough to start, had to charge the battery with a plug in 10 amp charger, and yes I was trying to start it some times with out the glow plugs, I wont do that any more unless it's already warmed up. Thanks in advance, JB