Re: Do you make your own biodiesel?
SVO [Straight Vegie oil] Setups require heating for 2 specific reasons.
1] Veg oil has a much higher viscosity then diesel has. the original diesels made by rudolph diesel were made for peanut oil since then the dino products with lower viscosity have taken hold and made engin specs lean toward their needs. heating the oil to 160 allows the viscosity to be acceptible to most engines.
2] veg oil does not burn fully if it is not heated to the 160 mark and will start gunking the engine up.
you Can run off of straight cold oil, you CAN also smash you finger with a hammer, but do you really want to?
switching from dino diesel to bio after a year or more of dino use will require several fuel filters for the first fiew mo of use. all setiments in/on the tank will be freed and sent down the fuel line plugging the filter. bio has a higher deergant ability and knocks all the crud free of the tank. once it has cleared out you wont have to worry about fuel filters any more often then when you used dino.
power service iirc sais it treets 100 dino per bottle or 30? gal b100. you need that if it gets cold you will have a good chance of gelling. I havent had time to study b100 in the cold due to having several certs due by the end of this month. 1 left to go :/ I may be able to get bio tests going next month though. you MUST wash bio to get good quality it is part of the atsm fuel standards for a reason. washing is also required if you ever plan to sell the bio. it also matters which oil you use and whether it is a solid or liquid. it make a difference between how easy or hard it is to treat. some of the professonal "Kits" out there are also not made of appropriate materaials to last.
we are currently at the break eaven point for is bio cheeper then dino assuming wvo [waste vegie oil] is free from a commercial stand point.
Im sure I have missed several things to :/ ruddy aweful monday
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