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Pennsylvania Weldor · 05-17-2008, 07:07 AM

Many good replies. Beginner in anything takes practice, along with a little knowledge. I'd suggest going to your local bookstore and buying a Basic Arc Welding handbook.
When I was an instructor the first thing we taught was how to "strike an arc", then progressed to "stringing beads". After theses steps were mastered, then we'd advance to actual weld joints.
One poster mentioned "watching the bead (actually it's called the puddle, not being sarcastic, just attempting to help you with the nomenclature of welding). The puddle is important as it will dictate amperage, arc length, and speed of travel. One poster recommended an auto darkening helmet. I'm recommended a "Gold Plated" lens. Not expensive at all from a local welding house. Eliminates the green glare, and you'd be surprised how well you can see the puddle. I'll never go back to a straight green lens. Been using the gold coated ones for years.
A good rule of thumb on arc length (the distance you hold the rod from the base metal) is rod diameter. 1/8" electrode, hold the arc at about 1/8". Electrode should be tilted about 10-15 degrees toward the direction of travel in the flat position.
Clean, clean, clean. Clean your base metal prior to welding. Not always possible if the weld joint is recessed, in a corner, etc. But, if it can be cleaned by grinding/brushing, do so. Even "new" steel has an oxide layer that should be removed prior to welding.
We used 6010 and 6011 electrodes for the string beads classes. They do require electrode manipulation (whipping back and forth to build up the desired bead height). 7018 rods are great to use. Lots of folks like the 6013. I tend to stay away from them because they are generally used on poor fit up, and have shallow penetration. When practicing, if your are using thin steel, watch for heat build up. If your practice metal gets hot your beads will change dramatically. For practicing purposes, quench after each weld.
I could go on and on.
Hope some of my input helps. Good luck with your new welder.

05-17-2008, 07:07 AM	#7 (permalink)
Pennsylvania Weldor Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 48	Re: Hobart stickmate LX Many good replies. Beginner in anything takes practice, along with a little knowledge. I'd suggest going to your local bookstore and buying a Basic Arc Welding handbook. When I was an instructor the first thing we taught was how to "strike an arc", then progressed to "stringing beads". After theses steps were mastered, then we'd advance to actual weld joints. One poster mentioned "watching the bead (actually it's called the puddle, not being sarcastic, just attempting to help you with the nomenclature of welding). The puddle is important as it will dictate amperage, arc length, and speed of travel. One poster recommended an auto darkening helmet. I'm recommended a "Gold Plated" lens. Not expensive at all from a local welding house. Eliminates the green glare, and you'd be surprised how well you can see the puddle. I'll never go back to a straight green lens. Been using the gold coated ones for years. A good rule of thumb on arc length (the distance you hold the rod from the base metal) is rod diameter. 1/8" electrode, hold the arc at about 1/8". Electrode should be tilted about 10-15 degrees toward the direction of travel in the flat position. Clean, clean, clean. Clean your base metal prior to welding. Not always possible if the weld joint is recessed, in a corner, etc. But, if it can be cleaned by grinding/brushing, do so. Even "new" steel has an oxide layer that should be removed prior to welding. We used 6010 and 6011 electrodes for the string beads classes. They do require electrode manipulation (whipping back and forth to build up the desired bead height). 7018 rods are great to use. Lots of folks like the 6013. I tend to stay away from them because they are generally used on poor fit up, and have shallow penetration. When practicing, if your are using thin steel, watch for heat build up. If your practice metal gets hot your beads will change dramatically. For practicing purposes, quench after each weld. I could go on and on. Hope some of my input helps. Good luck with your new welder.