[Dargo]

Originally Posted by Pennsylvania Weldor

Clean, clean, clean. Clean your base metal prior to welding. Not always possible if the weld joint is recessed, in a corner, etc. But, if it can be cleaned by grinding/brushing, do so. Even "new" steel has an oxide layer that should be removed prior to welding.
We used 6010 and 6011 electrodes for the string beads classes. They do require electrode manipulation (whipping back and forth to build up the desired bead height). 7018 rods are great to use. Lots of folks like the 6013. I tend to stay away from them because they are generally used on poor fit up, and have shallow penetration. When practicing, if your are using thin steel, watch for heat build up. If your practice metal gets hot your beads will change dramatically. For practicing purposes, quench after each weld.
I could go on and on.
Hope some of my input helps. Good luck with your new welder.

Having a clean surface cannot be over stressed. I generally use the 6010 electrodes if I can't get the surface really clean; especially if I'm welding vertical or overhead. For me, reverse polarity DC seems to work best with that electrode for me with the 6010 rods. I haven't really used the 6011's much. I think the only real difference is that they can be used on AC as well as DC?

I mostly use 6013 or 7018 rods anyway. For a beginning welder, a decent bead can be had with a 6013 with relative ease if the materials are clean and the operator just uses the setting suggestions printed on that machine. Once a guy gets proficient with a 6013, it seems easier to teach him to get similar results with the 7018. Also, it seems that the 7018 rods are less forgiving if they get damp. I don't know how many times I've gone to weld something for someone at their place with their equipment and they hand me a 7018 rod that puts down a crappy bead because its been stored in his toolbox, in the open, for the last year.

That Hobart is a great little machine though! It's what I put in the back of my RTV along with my generator to go weld something broken out in the field or in the woods. That's generally where I end up using the 6010 rods because I can't get a really clean surface. I've used some far more expensive SMAW machines that weren't any better than that Hobart you have. As others have said, practice a lot and get a decent book on technique. Unfortunately I've seen some guys practice, practice, practice and end up with a "pretty" weld that isn't worth a hoot because the wrong technique or settings were used. So a lot of practice with proper technique is your best bet.