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Originally Posted by RonMar Yes, probably a factor of moisture and also of mill speed. You squeeze anything it gets hot though from compression and from friction passing thru the dies. I think they need a certain amount of moisture to form a good pellet though, so even if the source material is dry, I think they may need a final dry after pelletized. |
Reading through the Testing Log and FAQ on the PelletPro's site it seems experimentation is the order of the day. They put through sawdust/planer shavings apparently without grinding or issue but then got some sawdust that needed water added to form pellets. Drying the pellets after the fact is certainly easier than drying the sawdust before. Looks like a certain amount of drying and cooling is required anyway.
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Originally Posted by RonMar Well the pellets I buy are made and dried, then bagged and thrown 50 to a pallet then wrapped and put in a warehouse by forklift. then again by forklift to a truck and moved probably a thousand miles bouncing down the highway where they are unloaded by forklift. then again by forklift to my truck, then unloaded by hand to my storage area. This is a minimum of what they are moved and seem to hold up well. Homemade pellets would probably endure far less movement. |
The pellets in the pics on PelletPro's don't look like they are as 'shiny' which makes me wonder, but you are right, a lot less handling is needed. Dust might be more of an issue though.
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Originally Posted by RonMar That vendor also quoted me a price of around $1K for a bare hammermill, but I am guessing it would also need a step up drive system to get from 540 to around 2000 RPM. |
I'd have a hard time buying a hammermill that way when I know there are lots around in my area that are not being used. There is one on my Craigslist for $150 right now and it is likely American made with parts still available.
So did you get a FOB to the back of your truck price for the pellet mill?