Quote:
Originally Posted by nmu98  Karl,
In post 7 & 13, I describe how we would put the hazards in a separate switch and how the factory switch would work. This is how I think you want it.:
The red power on the beacon would go to a switch, from the switch you would run a wire up to the headlight switch. You would remove the purple wire from the connector one the back of the headlight switch and plug it in to the switch wire. That would give you worklights whenever you want.
Without doing anything else, you would have a factory switch that was:
off
hazards
hazards/headlights
headlights
I would think that would work well for you as there might be some time you would want to work without flashers. But, if you want flashers on whenever lights are on, you would have to run two wires with doides on them from the worklights and the headlights, to the flasher wire. Then you would always have flashers. |
I'm encountering an unexpected issue with this job. Unlike yours seem to be in mine the wires that branch off from the main wire sleeve to the light switch are very short and the connector can't be pulled from under the upper dashboard far enough to be workable, so I need to remove the lower panel as well. Well, after removing all the screws and the park brake pully and nut the dang panel still won't come off.
There's something inside holding it back but try as I might I can't figure out what it is. It seems to be somewhere in the middle near the two screws at the base of the panel. The panel is very loose and if I could only see what's so stubbornly gripping it... any ideas?