BCS 715 Clutch sticking

[Eric_Phillips]

I have a 715 with acme engine. The clutch is not the cone type that everyone has been having problems with. The thing is the cone type have a set screw holding the clutch on the engine shaft. Mine looks to be pressed on. Anyone ever service these clutches?

Eric

 

[Udder]

Looks just like my clutch, and mine is NOT pressed on. Deep inside that hole there is a tight allen bolt holding the clutch onto the shaft. Loosen that up, then use a pair of cold chisels, a ball-joint separator, or something like that to wedge the clutch right off the engine shaft. I've never had to open up the housing of my clutch. I'd be afraid of springs and things inside jumping out....

 

[milkman]

Looks like the clutch on my 735, 6MM allen head bolt in the end of the crankshaft holds it on. You can take the clutch apart, but you need to put it in a vise before you take it apart then you can open the vise slowly and let the pressure off the internal spring. There is a replaceable bearing inside the clutch and then you can push it back together with the vise and bolt it up.

 

[Eric_Phillips]

I found the cap screw. Once I found that it was a 15min. job to pull it, loosen the clutch and put it all back together.

 

[milkman]

Glad you got it fixed, they're one tough machine. I have the ACME engine also and some people don't like them and say they are prone to problems and expensive for parts. Mine has been extremely reliable, the only part that I've had to replace is the ignition coil and that was only thirty some dollars, cheap maintainance over 22 yrs.

 

[mn_voyageur]

Do you really need a vise to break lose the clutch, or is a large c-clamp sufficeint? (I have one that I use for pushing caliper pistons back.)

Also, what else do I need? Is the 6mm allen head the same on all machines? Never having pulled the clutch, would penetrating oil help with seperating it? Is it wise to use Never-Seez? (when re-assembling)

Mark

 

[farmerboybill]

Hey Mark,

Never seize is a bad idea. The whole point of a clutch is to make good, solid contact. The problem with the cone clutch (Eric's clutch is not a cone clutch) is that it gets a little condensation on the faces of the clutch and they rust together. The simple fix is to leave the clutch disengaged when not in use.

Bill

 

[mn_voyageur]

I did leave the clutch disengaged, but apparently it must have been out of adjustment. (Because it did stick.)

First, is there an option to unstick the clutch without removing it/pulling the engine?

If not, does my cone style clutch, is it still a 6mm allen screw?

Finally, will my c-clamp be sufficient to break lose the clutch?

Thanks,
Mark

 

[farmerboybill]

Hey Mark,

You could possibly unstick a clutch by putting the machine in gear, starting the engine, and working it with the clutch handle squeezed until the clutch lets loose on its own. One guy told me he used to unstick them by running the machine into a brick wall with the clutch disengaged. Perhaps that's why I had 2 715s with the guards broken off them. Your mileage may vary.

Cone clutches have an Allen head screw on the side of the clutch instead of down the center of it. You line up the screw with a notch that has been cut out of the adapter and take it loose there.

I don't think a c-clamp will be sufficient, but maybe. The last clutch I unstuck required a significant amount of force from a 5 inch vise. If yours is only slightly stuck, maybe a c-clamp will do it. If you have a shop press, that will work, too

Bill

 

[SmellsLikeaGoat]

Just pulled my BCS 715 out after more than a year - changed oil, added gas and vroom! Love that B&S engine. Clutch was stuck! Thank goodness for TBN. Your're never alone. I thought running into a tree was a bit much, but liked the concept. I started in gear, tilled for a 100 feet or so with the clutch "disengaged" and it came loose. All is good.
Dave