Briggs engine repair or replace

[Ken]

Time of the year to use the roto-tiller with a Briggs 5 h-p engine. And the annuel problem of getting it to run for more than 5 minutes.
It is a Montgomery Wards rear tine tiller and the first year it was in shop for warrenty repairs. I have spent more on truck fuel than than used in the engine. Hauling to shop and going back to return to place and find it still doesn't run properly.
tiller operates fine just engine problems. the carb. is either not getting gas or over flowing and blowing black smoke. Tank is clean, hose to carb. replaced many times and the carb. repair kits would fill a bushel basket if had kept the parts.
So the question of should I just give up and toss and buy replacement . or continue to cuss and yank the start rope. put another repair kit in a carb. that has been worked on so many times the bolts are worn out.
ken

[Dana Warner]

What is the model, type and code number on the engine? You could replace the carb much cheaper then buying a new machine. A pic of the engine would help too.

[Bentleg]

wow....My 710 has that motor and I've had it since 95. I've replaced the rubber diaphragm in the carb once and replaced the plastic chock. I garden year round so it never sits more than 2 months. I say run it more often.

[DieselMonk]

I'd toss it and replace it with a Honda.

[Ken]

Dana Bentleg and Diesel
The engine Model #135292 Type 0141 01 Code 93032407 5 h-p Briggs Horizontal
Standred looking with fuel tank under carb. carb. bolted to tank
Going to Russelville looking for replacement engine just 60 miles one way.
I purchased just before the M/w stores bought by Sears . And the suggestion of using more
engine would run 10 feet then stall either over choked and running fuel out the filter area or no fuel and need choking to continue to run total loss of power condition.
If this engine had run would of used more. But drag from garden then load on truck drive to repair shop leave for a week and return to reload and re-unload to find wasn't running.
Tends to make one want to kick the tire.
Wife says get rid of it. Some times need to listen to wise words.
thanks ken

[20 20]

Just curious how clean is the flywheel especially where the magnets are?

[Dana Warner]

There is a diaphragm on the side of the carb which can go bad causing lack of fuel. There are also 2 pick-up tubes under the carb that reach into the tank. Both have screens which can get covered with varnish again a lack of fuel. However you mention that fuel is sometimes running out of the filter area which is on top of the carb. I would recommend starting the engine and running it till it quits then check the spark plug to see if it is wet (too much gas) or dry (not enough gas). If too much gas adjust the mixture screw on the side of the carb by turning it clockwise to closed and back out 1 to 1 1/2 turns. If too little fuel try running without the gas cap on, and possibly turning the mixture screw counter clockwise to allow more gas. You can also prime the engine by pouring a small amount of gas into the carb if the engine again starts and dies it sounds like lack of fuel. Before you take the carb off make sure you know that you have carb problem.

[bcp]

I don't know if your engine has a float bowl carb, but mine does and has problems.

My rototiller can run fine in a level position, but when tilling, with the tines deep and the engine at about a 30 degree angle, the carb is out of adjustment. Something other than a float bowl system is needed.

I've been thinking of a propane conversion.

Bruce

[Mac624]

Ken,

go with Dana...my thought is also that the tubes are the cause of your prob. I run this carb on tank bolted engines since more then 20 years, and always, when a prob appeared, it had been the tubes. Black smokes means the wrong air/fuel ratio and the engines only will run in the throttle/choke mode.

The hose from engine to carb is not a fuel line. Itｴs the breather of the crankcase.

[jonyyuma]

There is a diaphragm on the side of the carb which can go bad causing lack of fuel. There are also 2 pick-up tubes under the carb that reach into the tank. Both have screens which can get covered with varnish again a lack of fuel. However you mention that fuel is sometimes running out of the filter area which is on top of the carb. I would recommend starting the engine and running it till it quits then check the spark plug to see if it is wet (too much gas) or dry (not enough gas). If too much gas adjust the mixture screw on the side of the carb by turning it clockwise to closed and back out 1 to 1 1/2 turns. If too little fuel try running without the gas cap on, and possibly turning the mixture screw counter clockwise to allow more gas. You can also prime the engine by pouring a small amount of gas into the carb if the engine again starts and dies it sounds like lack of fuel. Before you take the carb off make sure you know that you have carb problem.

This sounds like good advice..the screens might be varnished?