Brush mowing steep slopes

[Chiriqui]

I promise you that 4 strands of barbed wire won't contain goats. You'd need at least 12 strands, 3 per foot for 4 feet. Plus posts every 4-6 feet. When you think of goats, think Houdini.

I'd also listen to the guy warning you about trying to mow steep slopes. Very dangerous.

 

[KentT]

That looks like a really nice machine. I think you're gonna need a lot more traction than turf tires are gonna give you. Is it easy to find and put taller lug tires on a Gravely?

Thanks! It has spent almost its entire life mowing the same residential 1 acre lot.

Yes, they're easy to find, and there's 4-lug 4-on-4 hubs available from newer models to put taller wheels and tires, if more ground clearance is needed. These are the common 4.80x8s, and I happen to have one pair of new Carlisles on hand. There was an option for 7" wide wheels for the 18" tires on that 4-on-4 pattern. One of the reasons for choosing a Gravely in the end was the wide availability of "upgrades" and used parts and implements.

For example, there's conversion plates/kits available for bolting on virtually any of the newer OHV, pressure-lubed motors. A common conversion is to use the inexpensive Honda clones, then if you damage it by abuse (such as lack of oiling on steep slopes :laughing you can replace it cheaper than a rebuild of most engines...

 

[milkman]

That's a good looking machine, should serve you well. I haven't figured out what the third handlebar is for, maybe another attachment?

 

[KentT]

That's a good looking machine, should serve you well. I haven't figured out what the third handlebar is for, maybe another attachment?

That's the steering brake. You push it to one side to engage the brake on the opposite wheel - the handlebar goes in the opposite direction of the way you want to turn. That brake gives you almost zero turn capability in addition to selective traction control, quite similar to steering using individual rear wheel brakes on a 4-wheel tractor.

That steering brake is almost essential for a tractor with duals, especially with a heavy attachment on the front or on sideslopes where the tractor will try to crab (moreso if it has caster wheels on the front attachment). You "drive it" with the left hand on that handlebar for steering, and the right hand on the handlebar for control. If you need to "man-handle" the machine, you use both normal handlebars...

You can lock the brakes using a parking brake lever, but otherwise normal braking is done by moving the direction control lever similar to braking with a hydrostat. You brake with the engine and transmission...

 

[leonz]

I Just hope you do not run into problems with
this unit and the degree of slope.

Your definetely going to need a several
pairs of spikes for your boots while mowing.

 

[washita]

looks like a good setup for mowing keep us posted on how well it works I would be tempted to repower my Gravely to save hours on the power-trac

 

[KentT]

looks like a good setup for mowing keep us posted on how well it works I would be tempted to repower my Gravely to save hours on the power-trac

Thanks - will do. I hope to try it out (without the ags mounted) on some spots next week. I've located a 30" brush/weed deck for it locally so I'll install it and take it for a test run. After researching these old Gravelys more, the only real concern I have going into it is the splash-lubed Kohler engine. From the Kohler manuals:

That 23 degrees with the carb-side downhil is due to oilpan and crankshaft's oil slinger configuration. I'm really not worried about the machine's ability to stick to the slopes, because older L-model Gravely owner's manuals said their slope capability was 60 degrees, when running duals. That was, of course, the pressure-lubed Gravely engine.

In comparison, my PT-425's CH-25 is rated at 25 degrees on sideslopes (doesn't differentiate sides). So, I may end uphill mowing up and downhill with the Gravely in those areas with no runout or turnaround. I'll just have to wait and see... meanwhile I've ordered another set of ags and one set of chains but they won't be delivered and installed for next week's test run...

And, I'll learn how to operate it down in the hollow where it is safe...

 

[joshuabardwell]

I promise you that 4 strands of barbed wire won't contain goats. You'd need at least 12 strands, 3 per foot for 4 feet. Plus posts every 4-6 feet. When you think of goats, think Houdini.

It's my opinion that electric net fencing is the key to containing animals like sheep and goats in semi-permanent or temporary paddocks. We also use it on pigs, who are known to be persistent little escape-artists, and incredibly destructive. We have only ever had a failure when the fence itself was compromised (e.g. by a storm that washed out one of the posts). It's not cheap, but it's easy to set up, easy to move, and because it's electric, it's darn reliable.

Well, it's as reliable as your energizer, but that's up to you.

 

[CodeMonkey]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I have pretty much the same problem as the original poster except my land (20 acres) is much more densely forested (I live on a mountainside, typical Oregon rain forest). I want to keep the mature conifers (mostly Doug Fir) and some other mature trees, but get rid of a lot of scrub brush/maple/oak.

A lot of that is too thick to cut with a mower, but I will still need to do something with what I cut up with a chain saw or brush cutter (looking into a Stihl Kombi and a chain saw for the stuff I can't cut with a mower) and I either need to cut it up for firewood or chew it up with a chipper. Either way I may have to pull out some of the wood to process it or process it on the spot.

There are trails through the forest and those are more or less what I want to clear, generally a lot of the scrub is on the flatter sections (still sloped significantly) and I want to clear a lot of that and use some of that land for terraced veggie gardens.

I could also use a log splitter and some of the other implements.

A four wheeled tractor just won't make it because of the slope and because I think there are places where such a tractor just won't fit between the trees that I don't want to cut down just to fit a tractor between them.

I don't require the tractor be used, but I do prefer a diesel. I am willing to spend money for axle extensions and possibly for wheel extensions if they would still fit between the trees. I think I probably want taller wheels because much of the terrain is rough.

I am leaning towards the BCS because it seems like it is more popular and there might be more implements for it?

 

[bcp]

(I live on a mountainside, typical Oregon rain forest). I want to keep the mature conifers (mostly Doug Fir) and some other mature trees, but get rid of a lot of scrub brush/maple/oak.

I cleared the same terrain about the way you are thinking of. A Troy-Bilt Horse tiller with a rope is what I used to pull out the brush. Downhill loaded, uphill empty.

Brush 1.5 inches and up became firewood. I got tired of chipping the smaller stuff and made brush piles instead. Lots more birds around now.

Bruce