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RonMar · 03-06-2006, 11:38 PM

Cool Project!
IRT adjusting the valves, I found it easiest to just remove the rocker arm assembly as I was going to adjust those after I re-torqued the cylinder head anyway. That way I could grip all sides of the headbolts with a regular metric socket and not risk damaging them using a foot that dosn't grab all faces. I did measure the valve clearances before I removed the rocker assembly. Just loosen the mounting bolts around the assembly a little at a time to release spring pressure and not warp the assembly. Re-install the same way making sure nothing binds as you tighten the bolts. When I did this at 50 hours, I found my valves on the loose end of the spec in the tech manual but they were consistent for all intake and exhaust valves. I also Found quite a bit of debris at the bottom of the rocker arm assembly bolt holes from when they were tapped.

03-06-2006, 11:38 PM	#26 (permalink)
RonMar Veteran Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Port Angeles WA Posts: 2,164	Re: Jima Y385T powered Mazda Pickup Cool Project! IRT adjusting the valves, I found it easiest to just remove the rocker arm assembly as I was going to adjust those after I re-torqued the cylinder head anyway. That way I could grip all sides of the headbolts with a regular metric socket and not risk damaging them using a foot that dosn't grab all faces. I did measure the valve clearances before I removed the rocker assembly. Just loosen the mounting bolts around the assembly a little at a time to release spring pressure and not warp the assembly. Re-install the same way making sure nothing binds as you tighten the bolts. When I did this at 50 hours, I found my valves on the loose end of the spec in the tech manual but they were consistent for all intake and exhaust valves. I also Found quite a bit of debris at the bottom of the rocker arm assembly bolt holes from when they were tapped.