Hydraulic Top Link

[roysallis]

The thread about the hydraulic top link has really got me interested in getting one. Especially since I just recently got a box blade. I talked with my JD dealer about one and he did not want to talk about it since JD doesn't make one and they do not carry Woods equipment. I have a FEL with a joystick. My 2 SCVs have push/pull couplers. What all is required to add the hydraulic top link if I use the FEL joystick? Do I just disconnect the rollback and dump hoses for the FEL and connect the top link hoses? On the rockshaft bracket there is slot for a top link control (wonder why JD doesn't sell the hydraulic top link), what would be required to add a control here instead of using the joystick? Do I need another valve? What is involved in adding another SCV? I can have 3 SCVs. I'm not sure what size top link to get, my 3pt lift capacity is 3374# at 24". Even though it is green, not orange or blue, can any of you pros help me with this?
Thanks

 

[W5FL]

Your dealer just needs a little educating. Woods owns Gannon. Gannon makes the hydraulic top link to fit any tractor. You simply tell them the minimum length of your top link, the Catagory of the top link (both ends)(Cat 1 or Cat 2). They custom make it and ship it to the dealer who simply makes the hoses the correct length and installs the ends for the quick connect couplers. The cost from my dealer was $300. Any dealer can do it for you or you can order it and get a hydraulic shop to put the correct ends on it. The dealer showed me his cost to Gannon and it was about $200. It is an almost indespensible option once you get used to it.

I don't like the way John Deee does their dual SCV's because you have to run the hoses under the rear axle and hook them up at the back (unless you order the mid mount kit) and you still wind up with no external hydraulic jacks unless you pay them another $750 to get a third SCV which includes a control lever. Easiest way is to disconnect the bucket roll hoses and plug the top link in there until you screw up your courage and buy a 3rd SCV like John Deere should have given you to start with. In the mean time think what you are doing when you use the loader controls. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Roy, I would add another scv on the rear,I controled my centerlink on my 970 with the loader joy stick and I had a lot of times I wanted to use the loader and a blade and had to unhook the hoses to the centerlink so I could plug in loader. I'm not sure what it takes or costs to add this to the 5000 series, but I highly recommend it. Try www.Bailey.com for the right center link, they seem to be reasonably priced. budinohio.

 

[Rowski]

I am interested in a hydrualic top link too. I have looked at Bailey's. That one has the ball socket on one end only. The other end just has a side to side pivot. Could this be a problem?

 

[Budinohio]

The side to side pivots you are refering to is common on bigger tractors and serves the same purpose as the ball sockets but are much heavier. Bailey does not list a cat. 1 center link so even if you were to make reducer bushings for the pins the ends may be wider than cat 1. budinohio.

 

[TomG]

If you do decide to run a link off the loader bucket curl for awhile, who ever makes up the link should know that's the plan. My dealer made up my link and knew how long to make the hoses so they'd reach the loader SCV's.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I have been following this post and other similar for a while - I finished my Hydraulic Top Link last night - I have a JD 790, so the cyclinder and such are sized for it. Got a cyclinder from a neighbors surplus pile, a 1.5 inch bore, 3/4 inch shaft, 10 inch stroke, came up with 19.5 inch retracted, 29.5 inch extended with new ends installed, JD 790 was 19 inch retracted, 30 inch extended , cut the clevis off the ends and welded on top link replacement balls on each end, purchased them at Central Tractor. I provided cooling to the cyclinder and shaft while cutting and welding, had shaft extended and protected so as not to heat the seals or get welding splatter on shaft. Presently hooked up to the bucket scv, but working on quick disconnects on the rear, possiblely adding JD 790 rear outlet and some kind of valveing. Looking a 3 valve block from Surplus Center that is only 6x6x3 and remote levers (not much room on 790 for stuff like this and I do not want to put it on the fender. Tried it out with my 5 foot Bushhog box blade - Worked great, really makes a differents. Depending upon your tractor, components must be sized for needed stroke and weight.

 

[roysallis]

Thanks for the replies, keep 'em coming. I can't afford a 3rd SCV right now so it looks like using the FEL roll SCV is the way I will have to go. Good suggestion about making sure the hoses are long enough to fit if I get another SCV later. I had not thought of that.
Thanks again