Bale Skiis liners??

   / Bale Skiis liners?? #1  

AKfish

Super Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2004
Messages
5,419
Location
Alaska
Tractor
JD 5115M; JD 110 TLB; JD 4720; Ford 9N; JD X300R
Any body ever use these in your baler? Good vs Bad. Waste of money...

Thanks.

AKfish
 
   / Bale Skiis liners?? #3  
We sell them. We've had many people report that they do help with length consistancy.

I have thought about these as well but how do you keep the bale weight up if it makes the bale slide through easier. I have added two extra chute wedges on the sides to increase the back pressure. This makes the bales have to push harder so I don't have to crank down on the top bale tension so much. I bale a lot of grass hay if that makes a difference.

Dan
 
   / Bale Skiis liners??
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Mostly timothy hay in this area. Brome hay further north of me.

I was looking for something that would help with the consistency for older JD and NH balers. Nothing worse than chasing those "gremlins" of a missed knot every 50 bales or that rogue banana bale...

Thanks.

AKfish
 
   / Bale Skiis liners?? #5  
I looked at them for my old IH-37 baler before I sold it and bought a new JD. My neighbor put them in his JD-348 after about 60,000 bales and is very happy with them and says they improve the bale consistancy. Personally, I think that good uniform windrows and watching your speed/strokes per bale will contribute more to consistancy than a liner. If I was going to add anything to my baler now it would probably be an airbaler:

Scott Seaver Co. - West Michigan Farmer and Inventor of the Airbaler System.
 
   / Bale Skiis liners?? #6  
I have a Ford 532 twine baler and was pleased with it's performance but was not happy with having to set bale tension down so tight to make a tight bale even with two sets of wedges in chamber. I was skeptical about the bale skiis but I went ahead and put it in. They are not cheap. After 3 seasons, I can say that they have taken a good baler and made it even better. Bale length is more consistent, tighter bales with less tension, baler runs more quiet, and I can run 1 gear faster. I like them but they won't cure a baler that is not adjusted correctly. Wanted to let you know that I am not a dealer for them, just a happy customer.
 
   / Bale Skiis liners??
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks for feedback.
I'm gonna give 'em a try.
I know they're pretty expensive for an old baler - that might only be worth $2,000-3,000 - but, with timothy bales "in the field" up here going for $8.50 for a 50lb bale; I think the investment is worthwhile.

AKfish
 
   / Bale Skiis liners?? #8  
I have thought about these as well but how do you keep the bale weight up if it makes the bale slide through easier. I have added two extra chute wedges on the sides to increase the back pressure. This makes the bales have to push harder so I don't have to crank down on the top bale tension so much. I bale a lot of grass hay if that makes a difference.

Dan

When you say wedges, are you talking about the plates that look like a cheese grater? Or something different?

I would like to add something to JD 336, the Skiis Liners are more than I can spend right now.
 
   / Bale Skiis liners?? #9  
The funny thing about all this is that just cleaning out the bale chute completely to install them is the main reason the bales come out better. The bale is formed by the addition of flakes held in place by 2 side resistors and 2 - 3 floor resistors. If they are all plugged up with chaff, crud from many years of old hay residue, they are not even 'there' and the bale consistency suffers. The banana bale gets its shape from uneven tenstion (and length) due to an uneven charge (adjust feeder forks) and even from a missing bale chute. If the bale drops off before it exits the tension cage, its gonna be misshaped. Length issues are caused by a bad, slipping, worn measuring wheel and a misadjusted or worn dog clutch on the knotter trip. Setting tire pressure too high or wrong pressures on each wheel can cause an unintended trip, too. As would a bumpy field. For Heaven's sake, clean out the bale chute completely every year to inspect the insides, set the tire pressures, clean off the measuring wheel gear teeth, and check the timing. There should always be 13 - 14 flakes per bale unless your windrows are thin.
You'd be surprised at the machinery I've looked over, and the 'rules' I get quoted by hay farmers ("don't ever empty out that baler, it'll never work again.") So after 20 years its having some problems if it has not already self destructed. Try the simple stuff first... You'll be amazed at the mud, gravel, stones, old fence wire, hay rake teeth, sickle knives and stuffed animal parts I've dug out of bale chambers. And a Timex watch, not running...
 
   / Bale Skiis liners?? #10  
Gentlemen, you have made several good points here about baling hay. Personal experience has been that the operator makes more difference than the equipment. The operator needs to understand what it takes to make a good bale, that is even windrows or the ability to make up for it with the speed of the tractor. Understanding the proper set up of knotters, plungers, and the bale chute. This stuff is not rocket science, but the operator needs to understand all the aspects of his individual baler. There is no substituting for this knowledge, and usually experience is the way most of us get it.

Balers need cleared out every year and you need to blow off all the dust and power washing is a good idea provided you dry off the baler and spray the shiny metal surfaces with WD-40 or something similar. This cleaning is not a vanity thing, I do it every year on all my balers to force myself to look over every piece and adjustment on the baler. I have caught many small things before they became big problems.

Baleskis will make up for some deficenies in the machine's adjustment, but experience has proven that getting the machine set up properly and operated properly with obtain the same end.

Personally I would say do not waste your time on these things. Make sure the hay resistors are in good condition, install a set of straw blocks, make sure the hay dogs have good springs and are working, and most importantly of all make sure the knotters are right. After the last adjustments I made on the 336 I personally run, my streak is around 8500 bales and have not missed a knot yet, and no baleskis in the baler.
 

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