Round Baler Belts

[dav-lyn farm]

I have a Case IH 8455 round baler, but this is a more general question about belts. Can someone advise me how to determine when to replace round baler belts? I have received a lot of "advice" from people who want to sell me belts, but I'm interested in a more unbiased viewpoint. I'm not sure how old this baler is. I bought it used about 10 years ago. I think the belts are original equipment. I have used it to bale less than 300 bales per year and I have kept it in a shed. Are there any telltale signs that would indicate the need to replace the belts? Here are some things I have seen that give me some concern. The chevrons on the belts are worn a little more on the edges than the middle. Some belts have a few bits of frayed cord showing along the edges. Last year one of the belts broke in two (not at a splice) and there was no evidence of damage that would have weakened it. Thanks for any help you can offer.

[sweettractors]

I have a Case IH 8455 round baler, but this is a more general question about belts. Can someone advise me how to determine when to replace round baler belts? I have received a lot of "advice" from people who want to sell me belts, but I'm interested in a more unbiased viewpoint. I'm not sure how old this baler is. I bought it used about 10 years ago. I think the belts are original equipment. I have used it to bale less than 300 bales per year and I have kept it in a shed. Are there any telltale signs that would indicate the need to replace the belts? Here are some things I have seen that give me some concern. The chevrons on the belts are worn a little more on the edges than the middle. Some belts have a few bits of frayed cord showing along the edges. Last year one of the belts broke in two (not at a splice) and there was no evidence of damage that would have weakened it. Thanks for any help you can offer.

If no foreign object caused that belt to break, that could be a indication of the overall belts condition. Maybe give it 1 more chance and if another one breaks this year, I would consider replacing them. Ken Sweet

[RickB]

If no foreign object caused that belt to break, that could be a indication of the overall belts condition. Maybe give it 1 more chance and if another one breaks this year, I would consider replacing them. Ken Sweet

I very much agree with Ken. If the belts are checked and dry looking like a dry rotted tire, you are on short time. Breakeage without cause is an indicator, as is failure where the lacing is crimped into the belt; although oversized bales and overstressed belts can fail there as well.

[dav-lyn farm]

Thanks to Ken and to RickB for the information. The belts are not dry rotted. I have kept the baler under cover and out of the sun for most of its life with me, and that's usually the reason for dry rot. Previous owner did as well. None of the splices are a problem. I use Alligator nail on plate splices. Very durable. There is a chance that I overstress the belts. I keep the tension high so that my bales are dense, very round, and stay that way when they are stored.

My main concern is breaking a belt when I desperately need to get hay baled. I raise oat hay which means that I have to bale it during the wettest time of year (spring) here in TX. It's always a drama to get it cut and cured before a ruining rain. Taking time to fix a broken belt could mean the difference between good and bad hay for at least part of my crop.

[RickB]

Nothing prevents you from having a spare belt on the shelf. Takes maybe what, fifteen minutes to a half-hour to install a belt?

[HayDR]

I have a Case IH 8455 round baler, but this is a more general question about belts. Can someone advise me how to determine when to replace round baler belts? I have received a lot of "advice" from people who want to sell me belts, but I'm interested in a more unbiased viewpoint. I'm not sure how old this baler is. I bought it used about 10 years ago. I think the belts are original equipment. I have used it to bale less than 300 bales per year and I have kept it in a shed. Are there any telltale signs that would indicate the need to replace the belts? Here are some things I have seen that give me some concern. The chevrons on the belts are worn a little more on the edges than the middle. Some belts have a few bits of frayed cord showing along the edges. Last year one of the belts broke in two (not at a splice) and there was no evidence of damage that would have weakened it. Thanks for any help you can offer.

Baler Belts do have a shelf life because they are made from synthetic rubber that will oxidize. Depending on how much direct sunlight the belts have received the average life of baler belts are 10-15 years. Baler belts can be worn out before then because of use. 3 ply Chevron belts, made in the USA, 7x562.5" for that baler run $260 each delivered in the lower 48.

[dav-lyn farm]

RickB, Good point. These belts are nearly 47 feet long and the baler is nearly 10 tall. It takes me longer than 30 minutes to change one out what with the ladder work and all. But having a spare would certainly keep me from having to repair in addition to change. Thanks.

[goattogo]

i run a 5x6 Vermeer Super J--one mean baler-puts up about a 2100 lb bale-20 years old and i love it!
belts at $260!!
Try Hammond Equipment Inc---in AL--334-627-3348.
when to replace? when it breaks! keep the pressure down. my baler rec. about 60 psi and i run at 50 psi, can not tell the diff.

[HayDR]

EXCEL belts are made in China