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  1. #1
    Gold Member donais's Avatar
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    Feb 2006
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    347
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    ramona ca
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    mf 1547

    Default jd 214t baler

    I just got this baler every thing seems to be working well. kinda. adjusted the needles and polished the billhooks, now my problem is the inside knot doesn't get wiped off of the hook the wiper arm seems to be real loose in there is it supposed to be? having never touched or seen a baler in person should make this a fun project(hey frog it sure is hot in this tub). i can get any pic needed as soon as the camera battery is charged jon

  2. #2
    Elite Member zzvyb6's Avatar
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    Dec 2006
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    2,561
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    michigan
    Tractor
    jd 1070

    Default Re: jd 214t baler

    The wiper arm is supposed to actually scrape the knot off the billhook. That means its an interference fit. The arms are malleable iron, so all you need to do is bend them in order to get the proper wiping action.

    I use two Crescent wrenches to do this: One to grab the wiper arm and the other clamped onto the first one's jaws in order to twist it. JD makes a "modeling" tool to get this job done, but the two wrench system works well for me. Do it while the arm is in place.

    The arms will actually develop a channel where they rub against the billhook jaw.
    There is no "I" in team, but there is a "Me" if you want to jumble it up a bit...

  3. #3
    Gold Member donais's Avatar
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    mf 1547

    Default Re: jd 214t baler

    ill try that tomorrow. can i see that part with the knotters still bolted down? i've not been able to see that part of the operation (solo affair) the wife is gonna turn it for me tomorrow.

  4. #4
    Gold Member donais's Avatar
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    mf 1547

    Default Re: jd 214t baler

    ok today had the wife turn it over and i watched the wiperit seemed to ride on the bottom of the bill hook like it should, i think. it seems and i already lost the new fish scale, but one (working) billhook has less pressure on it seems i will get another tomorrow to test it. any other thoughts?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -dsc_0282-jpg  

  5. #5
    Gold Member
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    Nov 2009
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    264
    Location
    Freeland, MD
    Tractor
    706 IH, 1066 IH, and 301A JD

    Default Re: jd 214t baler

    First thing, go to JD and get the manual for the baler. It is still available, and it will be worth the price. There is an excellent section in there on all the adjustments you need to make to have the knotters working properly. My first question is, is the baler worth working on the knotters?

    Is the plunger moving freely, but relatively tight? What kind of shape is the pickup and bale chute in?

    If these are worth using, know we can start to look at knotter and needle timing and condition. If you have the manual, it will have the complete procedure in it for timing the baler. FOLLOW IT CAREFULLY!

    Make sure the baler has all the springs it is supposed to have like on the hay dogs, drives on the knotters, and the tucker finger return springs. With out all the needed springs, nothing is going to work properly.

    Basics of checking knotters, when the needle comes up through the knotter frame, it should just clear the twine disc by 1/64 to 1/32 of an inch, and it should just rub the side of the knotter frame LIGHTLY. When the wiper comes across the bill hook, it should take a good 10 pounds of pull to move it across. You cannot really check this with out loosening the knotter and rotating it up to make the wipper move across the bill hook. The bill hook also has a small spring on it that controlls the tension on the bill hook. Make sure they are good and set properly. During the tying cycle, the tucker fingers should almost touch the needles when they come across starting their movement. The twine disc should be set with correct tension. If it is too tight, you will shatter twine and miss most of your knots. GET THE MANUAL, all this is spelled out in it.

  6. #6
    Gold Member
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    Mar 2005
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    306
    Location
    Barton NY
    Tractor
    JD 5420 MFWD 541 FEL JD X758

    Default Re: jd 214t baler

    My 327 has this issue for the first 3-4 bales every year. I think that exercise and the natural polishing of the parts cleans up the little bit of rust in the mechanism. From there the unit rarely will miss another knot.
    5420 MFWD w/541 MSL FEL - Only 900 hours and turning green.

  7. #7
    Gold Member donais's Avatar
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    mf 1547

    Default Re: jd 214t baler

    yes i have both the om and parts manual been reading it every chance i get in hopes of catching something i missed the last time i read it. thanks for the advice. The book says 70-100 lbs on the twine disc, i have right on 100 (and a bloody knuckle from when it let go) also on the bill hook i have 7. I'm going to do the twine tension tomorrow am. The tucker fingers seem to be real out of adjustment i will try to adj. that also tomorrow. Last week i tried baling some grass and everything worked but the twine either broke or didn't knot. It did knot 8 bales but i had to "re windrow" about 10 in the process...

  8. #8
    Gold Member
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    Freeland, MD
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    706 IH, 1066 IH, and 301A JD

    Default Re: jd 214t baler

    Sounds like you are making some progress. I know the book says 70-100 on the twine disc, but experience shows that 100 is too tight. The knotters will pull some twine back out of the disc during knotting. If it is too tight the knotters cannot do this, and the twine will shatter so no knot. Before you readjust these, check the condition of the flat springs that provide the tension on the twine disc. It only takes one spring, but it has been very common to use two springs. If they are rusted together they will not flex, and this makes the twine disc way way too tight. To check those springs you have a 3/8's bolt and lock nut that holds them in place. Remove it completely if you have two springs and make sure they are not rusted together, and then put a little never sieze between them.

    How much clearance is between the needle and the twine disc when it passes the disc? Check right where the twine comes off the guide on the needle. Very small clearance here, 1/64 or so. Basically just not touching.

    For the tucker fiingers, bring the needles up until the tucker fingers start to come across the needle. The tuckers should just barely clear WITH OUT touching. If these are not close to right, it will not bring the second twine across the bill hook.

    Tension on the bill hook is not too critical. 7 is fine. Basically tighten the adjusting nut down so you can get the cotter pin in, and this is usually correct as long as the spring is not broken.

    How are the springs on the hay dogs? Replace them if needed, and get the U shaped wire that goes with them. Usually the U wire brakes and the spring falls out. Especially check the one or ones on the bottom.

    With no hay in the baler, at the beginning of the chamber its self, there is a plate on each side of the chamber that has what looks like a bunch of half moons pressed in it. It is called the hay resistor. If these are worn out, ie the moons are gone, you will not tie well at all. The hay resistors and the hay dogs hold the hay back during tying. If they do not work, the twine position gets all messed up.

    One more thing to check and make sure okay, and that is the brake on the needle lift are. Not use, but I think it is on the lift are itself. Make sure it holds, but allows proper movement. I cannot get the parts book on like, or I would check this out.

    In the OM, there is a great section on diagnosing knotter problems. It has bunches of pictures of the various problems. This may be a help when you get closer to working.

    Lastly what kind of twine are you using, plastic or sisal? If the bill hooks are not for plastic, you need to use the sisal. If you have the plastic hooks, plastic does a much better job. If you can get the 210 pound plastic, you can use that as it is the same size as sisal, but it is uncommon to find any where.

    Once you get things about right, you should be able to go thousands of bales with out missing one. My personal best streek has been over 5K on my 336's. Fell free to send any other questions, and please let me know how you make out.

  9. #9
    Gold Member donais's Avatar
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    mf 1547

    Default Re: jd 214t baler

    thank you for the advice where do i get shear bolts the one in there looks to be a 1/4 inch but the threaded part is only like 3/16s can i just use 2 1/2 inch x 1/4 grade 5 bolts?

  10. #10
    Elite Member AKfish's Avatar
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    Kasilof, Alaska
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    JD 5075M; JD 110 TLB; Ford Ferguson 9N: JD X300R

    Default Re: jd 214t baler

    Quote Originally Posted by donais View Post
    thank you for the advice where do i get shear bolts the one in there looks to be a 1/4 inch but the threaded part is only like 3/16s can i just use 2 1/2 inch x 1/4 grade 5 bolts?
    They're cheap... and they're your INSURANCE POLICY against some real damage! Spend another $.10 with your Deere dealer and buy the real things.

    Also, check the twine tension feed from the twine box. IIRC, should only be ~ 15lbs or so.

    AKfish
    "Most people want to live on top of the mountain, but all the happiness and growth occurs while you're climbing it."

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