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  1. #1
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    Default adding simple cultivator guage wheels

    I want to add a couple of guage wheels to my 3 point cultivator. It will only be used to groom my arena; to keep weeds from taking over. The arena material is decomposed granite, several inches deep, and it is very flat. I think I would like swivel, adjustable height wheels but cannot figure out how to attach them to the framework of the implement. Any ideas? Thanks, Jan.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -img_2748-jpg  

  2. #2
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    Default Re: adding simple cultivator guage wheels

    IF I were going to mount gauge wheels. I would make a bracket to fit between the front two outside shanks, and have it mount similarly as the shanks do. A lot would depend on the size of the wheels, and clearance you have to the rear tires on the tractor, as to how far forward you could pitch them, to clear the front shanks. I'm thinking they would be running on a more level plane there, in more or less undisturbed material, than at the rear. If you are planning on using those sweep shovels, I'm thinking large chunks popping up, and if the wheels are at the rear, causing it to jump some.

    Personally, I would try gauging depth using the top link. Maybe start by extending the top link, and go a ways. Keep shortening the top link, until you get the desired depth. This would be a great place for a hydraulic top link.

    That's the bad thing about the newer tractors, and no draft control. Once the ones with draft control are set, you're pretty well good to go.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: adding simple cultivator guage wheels

    Quote Originally Posted by DJ54 View Post
    IF I were going to mount gauge wheels. I would make a bracket to fit between the front two outside shanks, and have it mount similarly as the shanks do. A lot would depend on the size of the wheels, and clearance you have to the rear tires on the tractor, as to how far forward you could pitch them, to clear the front shanks. I'm thinking they would be running on a more level plane there, in more or less undisturbed material, than at the rear. If you are planning on using those sweep shovels, I'm thinking large chunks popping up, and if the wheels are at the rear, causing it to jump some.

    Personally, I would try gauging depth using the top link. Maybe start by extending the top link, and go a ways. Keep shortening the top link, until you get the desired depth. This would be a great place for a hydraulic top link.

    That's the bad thing about the newer tractors, and no draft control. Once the ones with draft control are set, you're pretty well good to go.

    Thank you for your idea, DJ54. I really was not sure if I should mount the wheels in the front or back of the implement. I like your idea of putting the guage wheels in front to ride on the undisturbed soil, and I am pretty sure I have plenty of room to avoid the tractor tire. Also, the cultivator teeth are moveable, so I can also place the wheels out of their way. Now then, securing the arm to the frame is still puzzling me. I have to have an arm to support the wheel built, and then have a sleeve welded onto the cultivator frame for the arm to slip into and still be adjustable is a puzzle in itself. Jan 975263

  4. #4
    Platinum Member npalen's Avatar
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    Default Re: adding simple cultivator guage wheels

    http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/c...ge-wheels.html
    This might give you some ideas.

    Edit: Some of the springtooths of years gone by had runners rather than gauge wheels for controlling depth. Kind of like sled runners.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: adding simple cultivator guage wheels

    This set of pictures is exactly what I could use. Looks very simple to build and adjust, and I have a similar rigid frame to weld it onto the outside. The wheel would not interfere with any of the shafts. Do you suppose it would be OK that the wheels do not swivel? Thanks a million. Jan97526

  6. #6
    Platinum Member npalen's Avatar
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    Default Re: adding simple cultivator guage wheels

    Most gauge wheels on 3PT equipment that I've seen do not swivel. Probably no need to swivel since any sharp turns should be done with the teeth above ground.
    You're welcome a million.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: adding simple cultivator guage wheels

    I guess my idea of the gauge wheels on the inside of the frame was mainly due to you saying you were working in an arena. So outside the frame may keep you from getting as close as you would like, or at least in my mind. If inside the frame, all you have to do is watch the famework distance from the fence. Not sure how wide your tractor is, in reference to the width of the cultivator, but I'm assuming the tractor is narrower.

    As for mounting... First thought is a piece of angle that will cap over the front of main frame. Possibly 6-8" long. On the back side, a mating piece, or two short pieces of angle to sandwich the frame. Holes drilled probably from the back side of the angle iron to get them on center, starting small, and up to the size you need. Holes would be drilled towards the outside of the length, to allow for piece described next.

    On the front side angle, use two pieces of thick bar stock, guessing 3" wide X 6"-8" long. These could be Vee'd some to fit back over the angle, and weld in place. A backer, or gusset to back them up. Spaced far enough apart to put like a piece of 2" X 2" X 3/16 or 1/4" square tubing for the leg down. This could be bolted, or welded in place. But by using two bolts to keep it from racking, and multiple holes would give you some adjustment on the top end.

    A piece of somewhat heavy wall round tubing for a sleeve could be attached to the 2 X 2 square tubing at the bottom to attach the chosen gauge wheel. Something like from the gauge wheels off an old belly mower, or 3 pt. mower come to mind. Most of the mower gauge wheels had extra long stems, so as to place spacers above, or below the sleeve, so get your desired height.

    And knowing me, I'd run a brace from near the bottom of the leg down, back up to the mid section of the cultivator frame, more or less to keep it from folding under. Bound to be a little back, and down draft on the gauge wheel.

    Take it for what it's worth... Just some food for thought...

  8. #8
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    Default Re: adding simple cultivator guage wheels

    Quote Originally Posted by DJ54 View Post
    I guess my idea of the gauge wheels on the inside of the frame was mainly due to you saying you were working in an arena. So outside the frame may keep you from getting as close as you would like, or at least in my mind. If inside the frame, all you have to do is watch the famework distance from the fence. Not sure how wide your tractor is, in reference to the width of the cultivator, but I'm assuming the tractor is narrower.

    As for mounting... First thought is a piece of angle that will cap over the front of main frame. Possibly 6-8" long. On the back side, a mating piece, or two short pieces of angle to sandwich the frame. Holes drilled probably from the back side of the angle iron to get them on center, starting small, and up to the size you need. Holes would be drilled towards the outside of the length, to allow for piece described next.

    On the front side angle, use two pieces of thick bar stock, guessing 3" wide X 6"-8" long. These could be Vee'd some to fit back over the angle, and weld in place. A backer, or gusset to back them up. Spaced far enough apart to put like a piece of 2" X 2" X 3/16 or 1/4" square tubing for the leg down. This could be bolted, or welded in place. But by using two bolts to keep it from racking, and multiple holes would give you some adjustment on the top end.

    A piece of somewhat heavy wall round tubing for a sleeve could be attached to the 2 X 2 square tubing at the bottom to attach the chosen gauge wheel. Something like from the gauge wheels off an old belly mower, or 3 pt. mower come to mind. Most of the mower gauge wheels had extra long stems, so as to place spacers above, or below the sleeve, so get your desired height.

    And knowing me, I'd run a brace from near the bottom of the leg down, back up to the mid section of the cultivator frame, more or less to keep it from folding under. Bound to be a little back, and down draft on the gauge wheel.

    Take it for what it's worth... Just some food for thought...

    I am trying to visualize your instructions on this post, but I am having difficulty. Perhaps our welder friend will be able to follow it. Are you able to make a couple of sketches of your idea and sent it to me? Thanks again, Jan

  9. #9
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    Default Re: adding simple cultivator guage wheels

    Thanks again, DJ54. I looked up pictures of belly mower guage wheels and can now see how they also could work on the cultivator. In fact they may be even easier to build. What a great forum this is, and how nice of you to help me with these ideas and options. Jan

  10. #10
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    Default Re: adding simple cultivator guage wheels

    It'd probably be easier to use someone else's picture, and take some parts away, LOL...

    Imagine in the picture below, without the jackstand, and wheel. I had more in mind of it standing more perpendicular, but basically that type of mounting.

    Now, imagine where the bracket goes back to mount to the cultivator frame, instead of being routed out like this one is to fit a square box tubing, it would be in a V shape. What is missing in this picture is the piece of angle iron you would fabricate, to weld it to. It would lay right over the front of your frame. Holes drilled at the point of the angle (center), so as to bolt through your frame. Bolt holes would be drilled outside the width of the brackets going back to the frame for easy access.

    A piece of angle iron the same width, or two shorter pieces for on the backside drilled to accept where the bolts come through the frame. Basically sandwiching the cultivator frame.

    At the bottom of the leg, where the wheel would attach, you could make a couple similar brackets that attach that jackstand. Understand that that jackstand is mounted to an outside piece of tubing, and the foot of it is mounted to an inner piece of square tubing on that to get it to adjust.

    If using like a mower gauge wheel, make the similar brackets. Make them come out in front far enough to align bore, and slip a piece of round tubing in those holes for your sleeve to hold the stem of the gauge wheel.

    Note the multiple holes drilled in the bracket, and leg for adjustment. I would use two bolts, or pins to keep it from racking towards the back. The cross piece across the face, between the brackets would stiffen it greatly. Shim the bracket an 1/8" or so wider than the tubing when welding together, to allow for easy adjustment when finished. Using small like, drawbar pins would make for quick and easier adjustment. But bolting it would eliminate a lot of chatter I'd imagine.

    I still believe I'd run a brace back to the center section, off the leg. Pieces of flat bar stock wider than the framework, and utilizing the 45 degree angle it would be headed back towards the bottom of the leg, towards the wheel. They (pieces of flat bar stock) would be wider than the framework, so as to allow room to drill holes to sandwich the framework to hold it in place. Adjustment of the angle when cutting the brace bar may be needed to get it to come out where you want it. If the brace piece was cut on a 45 degree angle, however far back the middle cross frame is from the front, would be the distance the brace would be from the top of the front cultivator frame to the bottom of the leg.

    And again, if using some mower gauge wheels, most of the stems are long enough that spacers are used top and bottom for fine adjustment.

    The only reason I suggested the mower type gauge wheels, was for the pivot action. I have no idea how large your arena is. If it is large, guess I was thinking of doing the center section in straight shots, picking the cultivator up when you turn. But finishing the outside, in a long sweeping turn. Here again, not sure if you have a large round pen arena, square or rectangular. Even at that, if you don't drive perfectly straight, it may tweak on the cultivator framework if the wheel doesn't pivot some. There's going to be a lot of side leverage on that long of a leg.

    Then again, you could just do a similar thing as in the picture, but guessing you'd have a couple hundred dollars in materials alone.

    Clear as mud now..., Eh..??


    -gauge-wheel-jpeg-jpg

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