Farming newbie needs help with implement repair

[tmac196]

I am new to farming my 8 acre hay field which I use to supply forage for our horse farm. I recently purchased a New Holland 255 Rake/Tedder on consignment from my local CNH dealer. During the initial shakedown run, operating at about 350 RPM on the PTO one of the twelve arms which holds the tines flew off. Inspection revealed the "Split Tension Pin" (as I have subsequently learned they are called) holding the arm to the rotary wheel frame had apparently migrated to one side allowing the arm to detach. I have attempted to remove the pin using hand tools (Ball Peen hammer, penetrating oil, large channel locks in an attempt to pinch the pin and rotate it out) have been fruitless. I need to remove the pin in order to inspect it for damage and, if need be, replace it. I have enclosed some pictures of the problem, which my Mac wants to rotate horizontally instead of allowing me to change their orientation so feel free to rotate your monitor to view correctly.

The tedder/rake missing one of the left-sided arms:


A normal-appearing split tension pin for comparison (the tine arm is yellow, the rotary frame is red):



Bad pin which has rotated out on the right side of the arm which flew off:



and in on the left side of the arm which came off:



Questions:

How do you remove split tension pins?
Rusted pins are a guarantee. How do all of you deal with the added problem of these pins being frozen in place due to corrosion?
Is the process of reinserting a pin just the opposite of removing one?

tmac

 

[npalen]

Applying some heat to the outer member holding the pin will usually help break it loose. A Bernzomatic torch with Mapp gas applying the heat will also swell the outer member making it easier to get the split bushing/pin out. Wouldn't want to get the bushing/pin too hot though as it might lose it's temper but might be a good idea to replace it with a new anyway.

 

[Bison]

.
Don't know what you mean with split tension pin?. Only terms i know is a roll pin(small steel tubing with a split along its entire length or rolled up sheet metal ) or a cotter pin(solid half round wire folded back on itself to form a round split pin with an eye on one end) in any case cut the pin off flush with the tubing and use a fitting punch and hammer it out. New pins can be had at the dealer, a bolt supply or farm store.
Roll pins go in the hole tight,the pin is supposed to be slightly bigger than the hole it goes in, friction keeps them from moving
Cotter pins are slightly smaller than the hole cause you bend the protruding ends outward to keep them in place

 

[tmac196]

.
Don't know what you mean with split tension pin?. Only terms i know is a roll pin(small steel tubing with a split along its entire length or rolled up sheet metal ) or a cotter pin(solid half round wire folded back on itself to form a round split pin with an eye on one end) in any case cut the pin off flush with the tubing and use a fitting punch and hammer it out. New pins can be had at the dealer, a bolt supply or farm store.
Roll pins go in the hole tight,the pin is supposed to be slightly bigger than the hole it goes in, friction keeps them from moving
Cotter pins are slightly smaller than the hole cause you bend the protruding ends outward to keep them in place

It appears that the Split Tension Pin and the Roll Pin are one in the same based upon your description.

 

[DJ54]

What would it take to drop that whole arm assembly off..?? IF it's not too big of a deal, I'd get it off and lay it on something solid, so as to drive that pin out. Just looking at it suggests your getting a lot of spring action when you hit it.

A sizeable drift punch, or home made punch from a grade 8 bolt. Either weld a handle onto the home made punch, or a pair of vise-grips on the drift, and a minimum of a 3-4 lb sledge, and HIT IT..!! And yeah, make sure you have goggles on...

A good penetrant recipe I got from here of a 50/50 mix of Acetone/Auto trans fluid outshines anything I've bought off the shelf (PB Blaster, Kroil, etc.)

If removing is too much of a hassle, then you need to block it solid, or buck it with a sledge on the other side, to take the movement action, that I would guess is absorbing the driving force you're applying.

 

[npalen]

http://www.huyett.com/catalog/pages/Pins/TB-TensionBushing.pdf

 

[Beltman60]

Kroil is the best penetrating oil
now with removal of the pin make sure your punch you use is close to the size of you pin
if not too small of a punch and all you will be doing is expanding the pin when you hit it

 

[k0ua]

I have always used Kroil, but I have heard the acetone/autotrans fluid is good too.. a roll pin technically requires a roll pin punch, it has a domed center and a flat edge to prevent damaging the pins. Soak it in your choice of fluids, and back it up good with either on a bench or a sledge, and knock the "dog poop" out of it with the proper roll pin punch. "split tension pin" is a manufactures name for a roll pin

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Roll-Pin-Punch-Set-2AJL9?Pid=search

James K0UA

 

[Bison]

Penetrating oil will have no effect on a part that is press fit.There is no space for the fluid to creep in.
Heating up and cooling down and brute force is the only options to try break the hold

 

[Beltman60]

a spring pin is not a press fit