I believe they can't legally keep you from posting it anyway, as those older manuals had a copyright exception that allows them to be freely distributed. Would be great to see it!
FYI a couple other things to watch for, especially as you are driving it home. I drove mine 30 miles and that took me the better part of a day. Bring some earplugs as it gets loud after awhile!
- There is no grease nipple for the bearings that the control jackshafts ride on (the two shafts that have the pairs of sheaves that slide back and forth). That nipple is for the big bushing the assembly rides on. They need grease injected into them with a needle. They will probably be dry and start to heat up on your way home if not greased.
- Check for play in the sheaves on the final drive gearboxes. If there is play, they won't last long before spinning on the key, leaving you stranded and damaging the input shafts.
- Check the legs and the final drive gearboxes for adequate gear oil
- Do NOT overtighten the drive chains in the legs. They will be noisy when running flat out. Tightening them more than this will result in seizing them up.
- If there is no aftermarket weight over the rear caster wheel, prepare to bang the table on the ground. A lot. You want to add weight there ASAP.
Depending how familiar you are with the steering, watch the hills:
- Pulling the control stick to neutral will not slow the machine, only coast. Pulling back on the stick is only meant for reversing, not slowing. It will slip the belts and heat everything up. Use the variator stick to your right to slow the machine.
- Pulling the variator stick all the way back will slack the belt. You will lose steerage and engine braking. This is easy to do down the first steep hill and will wake you up in a hurry.
- The mechanical brakes are for steering assist. They will not save you from running away unless you use them to turn across the hill.
