Questions about plowing implements

[Mearntain]

I've done some searching in the forums and online along with talking to a couple people in person, but I still don't feel like I have a good grasp on what implements I need that will be a good balance of getting the job done along with cost of the implement / implements.

I know there are several variables out there that will effect the answer you can give so ill give as much detail as possible. I have about 2-3 acres of flat virgin ground that I plan on planting a wide variety of crops, including corn, soy bean, potatoes, and other vegetables in the spring/summer along with growing grains such as oat and wheat in the fall/winter. I am unsure of what the soil type that I have would be called, but I can tell you that it's dark colored soil thats not rocky and not full of clay or sand and it holds water a little better than I would like. I will be doing my plowing with a Ford 2000 3 cyl gasser.

To my main question that I seem to be having trouble on deciding on, is what would be best for me to buy to help me get my plowing needs done? Will discs do the job alone on my virgin ground and be sufficient for continued maintanence? Or do I 'have' to get a plow to use first and then run the discs over them (yes I do know that this would be the "proper" way but am trying to keep costs down if possible).

Using a bottom plow by itself was the other thing I was wondering about. My thoughts are if I only use this, there will be big chunks of dirt and uneven ground as a final product. Are thoughts correct here?

I guess the last option, but most expensive option, would be a rotary tiller? Will they do the job 100% without the help of another implement? If so, what size would you recommend for my ford 2000?

 

[motownbrowne]

Unless you have a very heavy disc with large pans, you're gonna need to plow first. Or hire someone to plow for you. You'll probably only need to do this once, so hiring out is a good option. After the disc, you'll need a drag harrow or something similar for a final pass.

Yes, a rototiller will do the whole job. Might take two passes, but only one implement. Depending on which transmission you have, somewhere between a 5' and 6' tiller should work.

 

[Mearntain]

Sounds good, thanks for the detailed reply. One more question that comes to mind now that you mention the part of only ever really needing to plow the first time -- I was at tractor supply earlier today and say they have middle busters on sale for 120 right now, and I was wondering if that would be sufficient to loosen the ground up enough to be able to run just the discs over it and be good to go? I'm sure it would take a little bit of time to run over it with the middle buster, but that's just something that came to mind.

 

[smstonypoint]

I have about 2-3 acres of flat virgin ground that I plan on planting a wide variety of crops, including corn, soy bean, potatoes, and other vegetables in the spring/summer along with growing grains such as oat and wheat in the fall/winter.

Just curious about your crop mix. What type of corn -- sweet or field? Why the agronomic crops (soybeans, oats, wheat) on such a small tract?

Steve

 

[Mearntain]

I plan on doing a combination of both sweet and field corn, but probably 85% field corn. If I had more land, I'd grow more but this is all I currently have to work with. I raise animals for meat including hogs and game birds and am growing soy for hog feed supplement along with the field corn and grow the grains in the winter for feed supplement and the added bonus of straw/bedding. This is my first season having a tractor so I'm able to do more now than I was last year as I only had a walk behind tiller up to now.

 

[jeff9366]

Ford 4000: TractorData.com Ford 4000 tractor information

Ford 4000: 3,400 pounds, 55-hp, 2-WD, Cat 1 / Cat 2 3-Pts., 13.6" rear tire.

You should Moldboard Plow as your initial operation. The plow inverts the sod, leaving the roots up so they dry, die and begin to decompose.

A Disc Harrow is a type of soil mixing tiller. A Disc Harrow will not penetrate as deep as a plow on unbroken ground, nor does it invert the sod. Without plowing first, the existing grasses will return year after year in my experience. You just mix "starts" into the soil.

So a plow is necessary, but only necessary once, provided the soil is tilled annually thereafter to keep it friable.

If you decide to go with a Disc Harrow only, find one with 22" diameter or 24" diameter pans which is the weight you will need. Disc Harrows with 22" and 24" diameter pans may be either Category 1 or Category 2 Three Point Hitch compatible, find one that will be a proper fit to your Ford 4000.


Plows come in various widths, which also determines the depth at which sod will be turned. Plowing will probably improve your soils ability to 'perk' moisture. You do not want to plow so deeply that you turn up sub-soil, so dig a few holes with a garden spade around your land to determine the depth of your top soil and do not plow deeper.

The most common moldboard plow is 12", which can plow 5" to 7" deep. These are always Cat 1. You can pull a 1 X 12", 2 X 12" or 3 X 12" plow, however the more 'bottoms' the more difficult to adjust for perfect soil inversion.

You can pull a 1 X 14" or 2 X 14" plow without loaded rear tires. A 14" plow can plow 6" to 8" deep. These are usually Cat 1, but perhaps Cat 2 sometimes.

You can pull a 1 X 16" or 2 x 16" plow but your 2-WD tractor will grunt pulling a 2 X 16" which will plow from 7" to 9" deep. I believe 16" plows are always Cat 2.

So in terms of rough ground, using 12" as an example, you will have a 6" below grade furrow in the ground and next to it a 6" above grade row of inverted sod, so you field will be a series of 12" bumps = rough.

In order to invert sod properly your right rear tire has to go all the way to the floor of the furrow. Tractordata.com reports your rear tire width as 13.6" but measure, you may have replacement tires. You cannot get a 13.6" tire to the bottom of a 12" furrow so you would need to find a 14" plow, not a 12" plow. (This issue with 13" or 14" rear tires in 12" furrows is OFTEN the issue when ops cannot get their plows to perform.)

Here is a very fairly priced Ford Series 101 2 X 16" plow not far from you: Ford 2 Bottom 16" Plow with Coulters Serial 4923 Model 101 | eBay

Determine if it is Cat 1 or Cat 2, likely Cat 2.

I pull a 2 X 12" Ford Series 101 trip protected plow. They are excellent plows. I paid $1,200 for mine, with coulters and a Landing Lever.

 

[smstonypoint]

How are you going to plant the agronomic crops? Do you have access to a planter and a drill?.

How are you going to harvest the agronomic crops? Do you have access to a combine with appropriate headers?

Are you going to bale the small grain straw? If so, do you have access to the required equipment?

I had not heard of the use of raw soybeans in swine rations. Based on a quick search, raw soybeans are nor recommended for swine rations except for possible use in rations for gestating sows -- Can raw soybeans be used in swine diets?.

Steve

 

[smstonypoint]

Ford 4000: TractorData.com Ford 4000 tractor information

Ford 4000: 3,400 pounds, 55-hp, 2-WD, Cat 1 / Cat 2 3-Pts.

The OP says he has a Ford 2000.

Steve

 

[jeff9366]

The OP says he has a Ford 2000.

Steve

Yes, by golly he does. Well, the info will still apply....

 

[flusher]

YOu need to get your soil tested first. Otherwise you are flying blind. Take 1" diameter core samples at least 12" deep at a dozen or more random locations around your field.

Check the cores to determine the depth of topsoil. That will tell you how to plow your land. If the topsoil is less than 6" deep, then you need to use a heavy offset disc (axles in a "V" configuration) for primary tilling followed by secondary tillage with a tandem disc (axles in an "X" configuration). Then use a cultipacker to break up any remaining clods. If the topsoil is thicker, then use a moldboard plow for the primary tillage followed by the tandem disc and cultipacker.

Mix the core samples together in a large plastic tub and bag 3 or 4 samples of the mix. Take these samples to your local ag lab for analysis. That will tell you what fertilizer mix to apply and in what quantities.

Don't skimp on this process. It's not expensive and will save you time and money in the long run.

Good luck