Looking for owner's manual for Deutz DX160 or similar

   / Looking for owner's manual for Deutz DX160 or similar #1  

rectifier

Bronze Member
Joined
May 8, 2015
Messages
57
Location
Saskatchewan, Canada
Tractor
Deutz DX160, IH B-275, Z225 zero-turn
I have some issues with the old Deutz and am looking for a manual.

I know there are some available for sale, but as they are all just reselling Deutz data that is out of copyright, I'm hoping someone might have a PDF to share. Anyone?
 
   / Looking for owner's manual for Deutz DX160 or similar #2  
I have a 7110 manual (and the tractor that goes with it). I don't know if that would help any? It is just an operator's manual and not even for your tractor, but you never know. What is your problem? I don't have a pdf...
 
   / Looking for owner's manual for Deutz DX160 or similar #3  
I didn't notice you posted 2 days ago. You probably have things solved wrt the manual.
 
   / Looking for owner's manual for Deutz DX160 or similar
  • Thread Starter
#4  
They are more long term problems that would be good to know the proper procedure for i.e. how to bleed the brakes. There are some extra brake bleeder ports on the lines, what for and when to use them. Also there is a bleeder on the equalizing valve, what is the deal with that?

Weights of fluids, fill level on hydraulic reservoir and drain location, stuff like that
 
   / Looking for owner's manual for Deutz DX160 or similar #5  
Draining hydraulics is one big plug. On mine it is the only one aft of the engine oil pan plug in the bottom centre. I was in a hurry one time and pulled the hydraulic plug instead of the engine oil plug when i wanted to change the engine oil. That was dumb,expensive, and made quite a mess.

There's a screen on the rhs side of the tranny that has a round cover held on by about 6 small nuts.

I think mine takes 90 litres??? It's been a while. I have just used utf, as the hydraulics and transmission/rearend all run in the same fluid. It likes to be at the top mark or slightly better on the dipstick, as the hydraulic pump complains when you are even a little below the low mark.

My front end takes 80/90 wt or therabouts gear oil.

I run usually run 0-40 synthetic in the engine year-round. 17 litres in mine.

I have never bled my brakes.

I will have a look at the owner's manual tomorrow and report back what I find out.

I don't ever change the coolant. Lol.
 
   / Looking for owner's manual for Deutz DX160 or similar
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Sounds like a real mess all right!

Definitely a totally different tractor as on the DX 160 the remote hydraulics have a separate reservoir, which is the one I want to positively identify the drain on before I drain something else.
The hydraulic PTO control runs off the main sump oil though, as does the diff locker. Neither works. (PTO stuck on, diff locker stuck off. Thankfully this is the best position for both to get stuck in) Who knows what the power steering runs off as there is a rats nest of plumbing on the thing and i think maybe 4 hydraulic pumps!

I also know that UTF/hydraulic oil in the main sump will destroy a DX series tractor, they need a heavier oil for the transmission. However, I don't know the exact specs of that oil and I would like to change it.

When looking it up it looks like you have the same or similar engine to mine at least. I don't bother with synthetic oil as I can't get it to start in the winter at all, due to that lack of coolant to heat up.
It has some sort of "flame plug" preheater but again I don't know the method of operation. It looks like a diesel injector in the intake manifold, with its own line off the supply side of the pump and a little tank of some sort nearby. Does it actually ignite a flame inside the manifold? And how long should the key be held in that position, anyways?

I've been running this stupid tractor for years and you can see why I want the manual for the thing!
 
   / Looking for owner's manual for Deutz DX160 or similar #7  
Mine has two block heaters that heat the oil rather than the water (no water of course). I'd say these are way, way better than any regular block heater, as they will heat the entire block up (you can feel it with your hand all over the block). I also have a preheater in the intake. It is electric and has a plug. You only need to plug this one in for a very short time to heat the whole head(s). I also have a battery blanket. All this combined makes the best winter starting diesel I have. With mine, you turn the key part way and hold it until the dash light goes out.

Parking inside or at least sheltered from the wind makes a big difference.

My diff lock broke a pin somewhere inside about the second time I used it many years ago. I heard a SNAP! When chugging through deep, crusted snow and I haven't tried to engage it since. Common on Deutz's I heard.

I wouldn't even batt an eye about your pto on/diff lock off thing. Mine won't start with the pto on, but I always turn it on after it is a little warmed up. It's easier on the clutch when it is running, apparently.
 
   / Looking for owner's manual for Deutz DX160 or similar
  • Thread Starter
#8  
My winter diesel is my old B275. I retrofitted it with an active circulation pump and heater, and the block will be up to actual operating temperature in under an hour unless it's really, really cold. I also installed 12V pencil glows from a Mercedes to replace the old series connected loop glows, and it starts like it was summer.

The Deutz came with nothing but an external oil pan heater that nearly caught the whole motor on fire when I tried it. Too much oil had leaked and covered everything in tar. Fun times. Are your oil heaters internal? Are they in the block or the pan?

My key works the same way, but nothing lights up on the dash. There is a good chance the light is burnt out/wiring messed up though as the dash is a nightmare. What is the symbol on your dash light, none of the German symbols look anything like our traditional glow plug symbol.

I don't really care about the diff lock much, especially if it's weak. However I would love to be able to stop the PTO. Mainly as it would be really nice to be able to shut down the baler and rock picker without killing the tractor engine. Interestingly I left it set to "off" yesterday while baling, and it disengaged once when the bale got heavy. I ran it disengaged for about a minute to try to clean off the clutch plates, then re-engaged it and finished the bale. Unfortunately I could not get it to shut off again.
 
   / Looking for owner's manual for Deutz DX160 or similar #9  
My winter diesel is my old B275. I retrofitted it with an active circulation pump and heater, and the block will be up to actual operating temperature in under an hour unless it's really, really cold. I also installed 12V pencil glows from a Mercedes to replace the old series connected loop glows, and it starts like it was summer.

The Deutz came with nothing but an external oil pan heater that nearly caught the whole motor on fire when I tried it. Too much oil had leaked and covered everything in tar. Fun times. Are your oil heaters internal? Are they in the block or the pan?

My key works the same way, but nothing lights up on the dash. There is a good chance the light is burnt out/wiring messed up though as the dash is a nightmare. What is the symbol on your dash light, none of the German symbols look anything like our traditional glow plug symbol.

I don't really care about the diff lock much, especially if it's weak. However I would love to be able to stop the PTO. Mainly as it would be really nice to be able to shut down the baler and rock picker without killing the tractor engine. Interestingly I left it set to "off" yesterday while baling, and it disengaged once when the bale got heavy. I ran it disengaged for about a minute to try to clean off the clutch plates, then re-engaged it and finished the bale. Unfortunately I could not get it to shut off again.

Did you ever get your pto clutch figured out? Think I have a similar issue with my dx160
 
   / Looking for owner's manual for Deutz DX160 or similar
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Another SK Deutz man! I haven't been here for ages, sorry.

I have almost everything fixed on the DX160... except for the PTO clutch. I would pull that back plate off and just figure it out, but I'm worried I'll end up wearing 53 litres of irreplaceable transmission oil of unknown viscosity and additive package (most DX series tractors are dead due to using improper transmission oil... mine is still going so I'm not taking any chances!)

It reliably will stop when I have a full bale in the chamber, which allows me to dump the bale without risking a re-trip of the twine arms due to the bale bouncing funny. I suspect there is a brake in there that isn't engaging, but can't find any documentation on the 160. Someday I'll drain all the oil into clean pails and pull that rear plate off that the PTO is mounted on.

I really wish I could convert it to 540 PTO but it looks like this is impossible on the 160s. All my implements are 540 which means I have to use a gearbox in the driveline, which makes everything flop around and limits my max PTO speed to about half under load... what a pain.

PM me and I'll send you an owners manual if you need one.
 
 
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