Tractor Terminology

[Anonymous Poster]

I am somewhat new to the 'Tractor community' and notice a lot ads that mention "remotes". Can someone explain what that refers to?
Thanks. And also, what combination of tractor (30-45 HP) and loader gives the best bang for the buck?

 

[MChalkley]

Remotes are hydraulic outputs with quick-connect fittings on them that let you attach and control a double-acting hydraulic cylinder. Double-acting means that it is powered on both the extend and retract strokes.

Mark

 

[Bird]

Well, Mark's already defined the "remotes". They are usually (always?) in pairs and a tractor may have only one, or may have more than one pair. Of course a pair is required for the double acting cylinders, like Mark said, but some implements may only use one, like my neighbor's haybine (hay cutter). The cutting is powered by the PTO, but a single hydraulic line raises it for transport or to get over small stumps, etc. The single acting cylinder is all that's required to raise it, and the weight of the implement itself will lower it.

As for what combination of tractor and loader is best; there are too many different ones, the question is too broad for me. Can you be more specific? Or tell us what you want to do with it? Personally, I prefer to stay with the same brand of tractor and loader instead of putting an aftermarket loader on a tractor; however, there are certainly some good aftermarket loaders available.

Bird

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Bird, will you elaborate on your opinion "Personally, I prefer to stay with the same brand of tractor and
loader instead of putting an aftermarket loader on a tractor...." I have read other people with this same opinion, but I don't know what the rationale is. Clearly fit and finish are important, but the real proof of the pudding is function. Many manufacturers match loaders with tractors in order to support sales of larger tractors, e.g., they will group a smaller loader with a tractor that clearly has more capability because they want people to believe they need a larger tractor to do the job. IMHO of course.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I would tend to agree with the comment about loaders (and backhoes) only in that every design operates differently in leverage, stress etc on tractor. You hope that with an "original" hoe or loader, even if it turns out to be made by whoever, has had a good look-try-evaluate process from the tractor manufacturer. (I realize this may be a naive hope in this day and age)

Oh, since this thread is titled "tractor terminology" I'll add something sort of tractor related...

BOG...an area of ground where the water table can be at or near the surface, consisting of complete and unadulterated GOOP.

QUAG...what a bog is after someone trys to drive through it./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

1WD... what every vehicle has without limited slip
2WD... one differential locked or one wheel on each differential actually working.
3WD... typical "4WD" tractor
4WD...typical 4WD tractor w/backhoe
5WD...typical 4WD tractor with friends pickup trying to pull you out of the quag
EXPENSIVE...what the tow bill will be after you and your friend flail around in the quag for an hour or so.

Of course if you're lucky enough to have a neighbor with a big tractor...make sure you owe him favors in advance!/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[W5FL]

Opinions is probably all you will get. My last tractor was a Massey 245. I bought a Great Bend loader with adequate lifting capacity. Unfortunately several things were problems which is what seems to happen way too often. The hydraulics on a Massey are inadequate for a loader as was the design of the tractor. The specs said it could lift 2000#. The tractor hydraulics gave the 3 point priority and required you to set a hydraulic switch for the loader. You could either lift something with the loader or turn the loader completely off to use the 3 point. If you had an implement on the 3 point, you could not use the loader at all until the 3 point lifted the implement to the top at which time the loader would start working. With a 1000# on the 3 point, you could hardly lift 500# with the loader at the implement banged up and down everytime you touched the loader controls.

The loader was not bad. A few loaders have to be adapted to a lot of tractors with brackets that are not always perfect for the tractor.

I compare that with a Kubota loader that is matched to the M6800. It has clamps and hose guides and braces in all the right places. I have yet to see an aftermarket loader installed that fits as well or removes as easily. The loader uses midpoint quick connect hydraulic couplings and leaves the frame and control levers on the tractor with the loader removed. They can be used for other hydraulic applications if need be.

All after market loaders will paint them to match your tractor, but paint is not the main issue. Loaders are a very complex attachment that affects the weight distribution and stability of your tractor. It matters whether it is 2WD (never intended for a loader) or 4WD so the loader will clear the front wheels. Many aftermarket loaders rate their loader at hydraulic flows that are not available on most tractors and the specs mean very little. Don't be too influenced with loader specs. The limiting factor is usually the tractor.

Most manufacturers rate their loaders and set them up to be compatable with your tractor. I see no evidence that the capacity is influenced by marketing - their lawyer perhaps. You can, of course, buy an aftermarket loader that will lift more than your tractor is capable of lifting with or without damage or stability problems. If you look at a John Deere manual, it always recommends full Calcium filling of the rear tires plus additional weight on the rear 3 point of the tractor to get to specified lifting weight. When you lift 2000# on the loader, you will need close to 2000# weight in the tires or 3 point to maintain the same degree of stability that the tractor was designed to have. My Kubota manual recommends filling the tires and then using a 1000# implement on the 3 point.

Nope, no more after market loaders for me if an OEM loader is available.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Wen,

You can print your response and post it on the Kubota dealer's wall for others to read I haven't seen it said better.

 

[Bird]

Reddog, I'd be glad to elaborate, but Wen's already done it for me (and del, too)./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif I didn't say you shouldn't use an aftermarket loader; only that I "prefer" the same brand, primarily for the reasons already given by the other guys. If I should ever have a problem with a tractor or loader, I don't want the tractor manufacturer telling me it's the loader's fault and the loader manufacturer telling me it's the tractor's fault. And then if I ever decide to sell it or trade it in, I figure it'll probably have better resale value if everything matches.

Bird

 

[MChalkley]

Wen and Bird - The next time a guy asks a question, could you please hold back just a little and leave me something to say? /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Mark

 

[Bird]

You just have to be a little quicker, Mark. Of course, I liked Wen's explanation, and that saved me from having to type so much./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Bird