New here and hoping to get help getting tractor running.

[Bob Warner]

Hello all,

I was referred to this forum by wroughtn_harv, so don't hold it against me. Harv and I are friends and live close together.

Anyway, I just became the owner of a 1962 International Harvester 404 tractor. Unfortunately it belonged to my boss before me and he "worked" on it before I got it because it has a wiring problem. My boss knows less about wiring tractors than I do about brain surgery (you just drill a hole and root around in there with a stick, right?).

So I need a wiring diagram for this thing. I am currently attempting to get a service manual for it but don't have it yet. According to wroughtn_harv you guys know everything so I thought I would ask for help here.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this tractor or one that will get me through the big stuff so I can get it running? I don't really care about the lights and stuff right now, I just want to get it running so I can see if the rest of the stuff works (PTO, hydraulics, etc) before spending any more cash on it.

Currently there is no spark to the plugs. It ran briefly when the boss got it but after he fixed it it did not. He replaced the starter/solenoid and the coil. I replaced the battery and battery red/black cables. It cranks but no spark.

Now, I am no mechanic either but I know it. I can follow drawings and take suggestions.

I did a compression check and three cylinders have 120 psi and the other one has 125 so they are pretty equal. Not sure what they should be.

If you have a diagram, please post it or send it to my email bob AT warnerknives DOT com.

Any advise anyone can give is appreciated.

Bob

 

[Inspector507]

If it has plugs and a coil, it surely has a set of points. They might be burnt or out of adjustment.

 

[Mike120]

I usually get my manuals from SSB at: Tractors | Tractor Parts, Manuals, Toys - SSB Farm & Antique Tractors

The 404 is listed under International Farmall. Good luck!

 

[billbill1]

Do you have voltage to the coil before you try engaging the starter? One side should have 6 or 12 volts (depending on the tractor battery). A jumper wire could be added for testing purposes (if not) to see if it will fire. Jump to the side not going to the distributor on the coil and then try the starter. If nothing else is wrong, this should provide spark to the plugs. Also, if no voltage is present, we will need to troubleshoot from the ignition switch to correct.

 

[ToadHill]

I'd start by replacing the points and condenser, then turn it over and see if you get spark across the points. If not check the wire between the coil and the condenser.

If yes, check the rotor and see if the contact is burned, if yes replace it.

Check the cap for cracks and burned contacts, if it has any replace it.

Now check the wire between the coil and the center of the cap. You can do it by holding the distributor side to a metal surface and turning the engine over. Hint: use some insulated plyers.

If you have spark across the points, a new rotor and cap, a good wire from the coil to the cap, the only thing left is the plugs and plug wires. If necessary replace these.

It should now start provided the carb is not buggered up.

 

[Bob Warner]

Thanks guys. I have someone on a welding forum walking me through it. I definitely need the new cap, rotor, points and condenser.

Was told NAPA carried them but a call to them let me down. I need to find a tractor supplier in my area to get them.

Hope this works.

Thanks to all, I will keep you posted.

Bob

 

[rleard]

Hi Bob, I recently joined this forum also. Hopefully you've figured out your tractor problem by now. I was going to suggest point/conden also, but, if someone attempted to re-wire it, maybe more serious problem. Ignition switch etc. Good luck......... Ron L. (New Park Pa)

 

[Bob Warner]

The tractor is ALIVE!!!!!!

I got the wiring figured out and replaced the points, condenser, rotor and cap. I cleaned the plugs and sprayed in a bit of starting fluid. It fired right up. Only ran if for about 30 seconds because there is no upper radiator hose. Don't want it to get hot and can't find the hose locally so may have to do the ebay route for $23 total for the hose.

I have developed another issue now that it runs. The hydraulic fluid leaks out at the filter. Pretty fast too. I tried tightening the bolt but it is already tight. Have not taken it apart yet but the parts book makes it look like there are a LOT of pieces inside the filter. Once again finding the part or parts may be difficult. I wonder if it is possible to replace the component filter with a spin on type.

I will have to weld a new shifter onto the stub left after the original was broken off, will use a cue ball for the knob.

Then I have to figure out how to use it. I have a 6' brush hog that came with it so I hope to be mowing this summer.

If anyone can help me figure out the hydraulic filter issue or a place for parts, please let me know.

Bob

 

[chh]

Glad to hear you got it to start. Not real familiar with the 404 but the hydraulic filter really should be available a NAPA store(getting them to really look it up may be another story) and they do have the flexible radiator hoses. You should be able to get one that will fit. Not like an original but close enough to work.
The leak is probably from the seal on the filter housing being broken or misaligned. I don't know if it would be easy to convert it to spin on.
Good luck. It sounds like you are making progess.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Congratulations on getting it to fire up! It's a good feeling, isn't it?
O'Reilly auto parts here carries Wix filters. I got one there for an old Int. industrial tractor. It came with a new seal. I got manuals from ebay.