Bought a Belarus 250AS

[sataylor]

Some what against my better judgement I have a deal to by a Belarus 250AS. Am a little nervous about the tractor due to it's reputation but the deal was too good to pass up. It only has 488hrs, has a front end loader. Not sure of the year as the dealer was unable to cross referrence the serial number withhis book but I am guessing it is a mid-late 80s. It started with out any trouble after a battery was put on it. PTO, 3 pth and hydraulics seems to be in great shape. It has new ag tires on it. It has obviously been parked outside as the engine cover is rusting a bit and the seat it just a metal frame. There are 4 dealers/repair places with in 1.5 hours of us. the tractor just fit our property better then a larger tractor like a MF 65 or Ford 5000 did. I can actually fit it in the now workshop part of my garage that has two 32" double doors. It will be mainly used for maintaining a gravel driveway, landscaping, snow removal and gardening. I figure by the time it dies(hopefully 10 yrs), my kids will be leaving the house and I can get a newer toy.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

If you'll look at the rear of the tractor, there is a electrical socket. The cap has a time/date stamp. It'll pretty much give you the year the tractor was made. Its not 100% but it'll be close.

You'll need to probably service the entire tractor, especially if it has been sitting for a while. Change the filter or clean it out if its a centrifugal type. Clean the oil bath air cleaner and refill with non detergent motor oil. Drain the hydraulic tank and refill with standard 30 weight motor oil. Drain the transmission and refill with 85-140 or straight 90 weight. The tractor engine will need either straight 30 weight diesel rated oil (CC,CD,CE,CF,CG etc) or 15W40 diesel rated oil. The final drive oil may or may not need to be changed, but while your there, check it. There's a plug in the side, and depending on what position height your tractor is raised to (the tractor can vary its height and clearance) depends upon what plug you check.

Tighten up the bolts where the axle housing bolt/studs to the transmission? Missing some bolts? They're available. Check all the bolt tightness for that matter, including the rims. If its got a loader, something is loose. Locktight helps, but only use the blue, if you have to.


That tractor is infinitely rebuildable, and there are parts available. You have to know where to look but there are a lot around.

 

[sataylor]

Thanks Mark for the info. I am buying the tractor off a dealer and have had them check a number of these items but I will double check them as well. I believe it is in the highest postion that it can be right now.

I get the tractor on Friday and will post up some photos then.

Thanks again!

 

[Wacky]

Is it 4 wheel drive? I was looking at a 4 wheel drive Belarus but not sure what the model was. The owner had the front axle knuckles covered with old innertubes because he said they had a history of becoming "locked up", wouldn't let you turn left or right. Just may want to check the knuckle assembly to see if it has been greased good and is in good working order. Good luck!

 

[sataylor]

Not 4wd, gave it a good test drive last weekend and it seemed very smooth and solid.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

If the final drives are vertical, then its in the highest position. If they are at a 45 then that's the mid position. I prefer the Mid position for most things. The low profile is good and is the way it came shipped in later versions of the tractor, but the Mid position actually seems to make the tractor pull better, and of course visibility is better.

 

[rtimgray]

Mark has given some great advice. The only thing that I might have to add is that when I had a Belarus (420 AN), I found that it ran much cooler and quieter using a synthetic oil in leiu of regular. Mine was air cooled and I'm pretty sure that the 250 is as well. Mine took about 12 qts of oil, so it wasn't cheap, but it made a big difference in temp and noise.

Good luck and take care.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

A couple more things. Check the "oil" in your fuel injection pump. These pumps regularly bleed diesel fuel down into the oil sump. Pull the plug in the side. Don't be surprised if diesel gushes out. If it does, drain (I'd do it regardless) the oil from the bottom and refill to the side hole level with straight 30 wt.

Make sure the spring is returning the pedal to the full up position. If not, loosen the bolt that holds the spring tab and rotate the tab down to improve the tension. Also, its a good idea to pull the side cover off the bell housing and grease your throw out bearing. Inspect the clutch levers. There should be about 1-2 mm of daylight between the clutch levers and throwout bearing. The should all contact it evenly. If there is a groove cut into the release levers on the clutch, then they will need to be changed along with the throwout bearing as it probably is shot. If one of the levers is at a different height, it will need to be adjusted until it matches the others. Make sure the locknut isn't stripped out, and don't overtighten it when retightening it.

 

[sataylor]

Thank you all for the information/guidance, it is very much appreciated. I will keep you informed with what I find and post up some photos of the tractor after it arrives.

Cheers