Versatile 150 series2 tractors

[Spidermonkey]

How hard is it to change them out? I am thinking about doing mine when I pull the motor to figure out whats gone wrong.
P.S. - I too live in Manitoba, just outiside winnipeg

 

[lange]

Hi
It doesnt make any difference if you take the engine out because the clutch housing is still in the way, so you have to take the T fitting off the hydrolic oil reservoir that allows you to lift the T fitting and hoses up so you can get at them. Then you refit your hose and put the T back on the reservoir. Its awkward but that is the only way you can do it. because some of the hoses were put in place as it was assembled and they didnt think of how you can replace them after!
As for you engine problem we are still racking our brains and hope to get back to you on that one.
I presume you have changed all the hydrostatic and hydrolic filters and cleaned the screens in the oil tanks. It does sound like a fuel problem.

 

[Spidermonkey]

I have not checked the filters. The only thing for me to check is the gear pump mounted to the accesory "gear box" at the front of the engine. The hydrostatic pump was disconected at the ujoint coupling to rule out a bad hydrostatic pump from holding the engine back. I am guessing its main bearings at this point. I am working on insulating the garage so I can work on it over the winter. Once I am ready, i will remove the gear pmup and try spinning it over again. If it gets tight with the pump off , then the motor is coming out.

 

[scrappy isb67]

Hope you have more luck than this guy.

I had one of these contraptions from a neighbor coming in my shop on a regular basis.

I rebuild the engine twice.
I hung the tranni back under after it fell out,drop boxes went out or broke off
I welded and reenforced the rear axle after it cracked under the pumpkin.
The articulate joint tore loose and had to be straightened and beefed up.
The 3 point hitch bend and broke a couple times,clutch went out,drive lines busted.
Hydr where always a problem as was the pivot under the seat where the electrics come trough.,the brakes are a PITA. The loader had every time some thing wrong with it.etc etc..... It was either broke or close to it.These tractors must the worst piece of **** they ever designed.:ashamed:
I wouldn't want to own one if they paid me to.

sounds to me like they abused that tractor very badly!

First of all I'd like to say welcome to the site. I've been on here for awhile and the one thing everyone enjoys is photo's so lets see a few of this very interesting tractor. I haven't see one here in Newfoundland but do work for a large farm and will ask the guys if they know of one and will post my findings. Having a Perkin's engine is a big plus in any machine. I had one in an industrial tractor many years ago and it was a fantastic motor. Welcome to the site. Paul in Newfoundland



My late Dad would say "If you don't have anything good to say, you should say nothing at all". In this case it should apply.

Since I've been on this site and a few others I've adapted my own saying "Never put down another mans machine".

Now I have to break both my own rules and say this. I'm in the repair business and IF I had to rebuild someones engine TWICE and the cause of the second time wasn't because of the hours on it I would consider myself a failure.

Now that I'm in my own repair business I get the chance to work on many different types of equipment including everything in automotive. One of our largest customers is a government department on the federal side. In the last few years they've updated there fleet and purchased new GM trucks. Now that the warranty is off of them I'm loving it. You would be hard pressed to go by my shop and not see a GM truck out by my door waiting to be repaired. Now don't think I'm new to this type of work. I was a technician for 15 years at a GM dealership and later on a service manager and still own a GMC truck but not a new one. When I decided to retire my truck from snow clearing after 13 years of trouble free service I bought a tractor and only use my truck to pull my welding machine around now.

I noticed in your signature you own not one, not two but three of these trucks oh man if they are the later type trucks your could to be really busy working on them. You might not but COULD BE.

I'm not going to call your trucks a POS like you did about this mans tractor which was very wrong in my honest opinion but I'm sure everything is not created equal and I'm sure all these types of tractors as with the GMC trucks aren't the same with the same issues. Your response to this mans post was just wrong

I have to agree with this! just becaues one tractor was a nightmare (due to neglect/abuse?) does not mean they all are.

If a tractor is used as designed they will last. For example the IH 3588 2+2's. I grew up in the cab of one. It was never dualled up and was used(hard but NOT abused) like it was designed. It was used to pull a 22ft disk or a 29ft field cultivator and there was no need for duals, we were only able to get it stuck ONCE. The only repair that tractor ever had was a TA and a couple of clutches in ~10K hrs. Others turned them up and dualled them up. They used(abused) it as a larger 4wd and had constant problems with the rearends. Everyone runs them down and says they are lemons but I would take one any day vs todays tractors especially when dealing with mounted equipment!

 

[ttstpsvernon]

I just found your post and am sure i can help with just about anything a versatile has failure with. when replacing any of the hoses make sure the anti articulating brace is installed. I replaced some steering hoses one time and didn't have the brace in place and it about pinched me into two peices. When you have one of these that are hard to crank you should disconnect the driveline to the hydro you may have a relief stuck in there and trying to build pressure at all times. and the injectors are direct injection so if they are removed this should eliminate a hydraulic lock. a big thing on these that some people overlook is the battery cable ends themself if one is bad that puts more stain on the others and none will work properly. even a weak battery will draw the other one down. this will make for a slow crank. also if my memory serves me correctly there is a ground strap between the two halves and this is very critical that it is grounded properly you can check it by using a booster cable and clamp it to ground on battery and ground on starter if it cranks good the strap is bad. good luck

 

[Spidermonkey]

Yes, I think I have narrowed it down to either the engine (internal) or the gear pump on the motor. I have disconected the hydro pump, had new batteries, new cables with cleaned connections and had all the injectors out. It would crank o.k. for a 3-4 revolutions then would start to get tighter and tighter . after about 2-3 more revolutions (I am watching the fan, so it will be different then actual engine revolutions) it wont crank over. I burnt the original starter out. I thought maybe the starter was on its last legs, but even with the new starter it gets hot FAST. I have not tried it as of late as I am getting my garage ready for winter so I can continue my search for the root cause.

 

[Bison]

ok..got the starter rebuilt..again. still cranks slow..if at all.
I am going to try looking in the cylinders using a boroscope to see if I can see anything obvious (scored walls, signs of exsesive heat, etc).
Can teh engine still be hydrolocked even if the injector is pulled out? I am not sure if the injector is behind the valve, or actually injects into the cylinder directly. I am trying to figure out if I try and turn it over with injectors out will rule out if its hydrolocked or not. If the injectors are on the "atmosphere" side of the valves then is there a chance that the diesel under pressure would hold the valve closed?

I don't know what problem you're having but you need to trouble shoot if one of the engine driven components are in fact to blame.
Try starting it with the front pump drive shaft disconnected,maybe the hydra pump is seized?,if not,then check the aux hydr pump under the inj pump for seized?.
The PTO should give no issues when in neutral.

With injectors removed no hydralock will occur(coolant gets pushed out trough the inj hole) but if you have a leaking head gasket? and experienced hydralock,piston and ring damage(seized) including a bend conrod could be the reason for a slow engine turn over

 

[Spidermonkey]

I agree. Thats where I am now. I have been busy and havn't had much time to work on it. Now that snow is here in Canada, I am insulating my garage in anticipation that a rebuild may be in order. I have disconected the hydr drive pump at the drive shaft and removed the injectors. WHen I tried crannking it it still got tight. when it was tight I tried pushing on each valve stem on each valve to see if it was under pressure, none were under pressure, so I know its not hydrolock ( or pretty sure anyways). I am guessing that its either the diuesel pump itself, the gear pump under it or main bearings.

 

[kelly mt]

Just found this thread, interesting. I have a 1980 150 series 2 and have put 8000 hours on it to date. The wife and I just love this tractor! The Perkins motor is trouble free and the oil is still honey clear at oil change time. I have had to replace u-joints but that's to be expected. I use it for loader work, haying and snow removal. We run a 8 foot blower on ours, great set up! Just a thought on your problem, have you looked at the hydraulic oil pump? It will cause a load on the engine if it is damaged or under load while cranking. Could be in the hydraulic problem similar to the hydrostat. PK

 

[Spidermonkey]

Well got a chance to work on the 150 today. Decided I would take the pump off the motor just below the fuel pump. 2 bolts and it slid back no problem. I figured I would try and start it to see if the motor would do the same thing as before. Since it had been sitting for 5 months I gave it a lil shot of ether and turned they key. She fired right up ..no problems. Ok So I figured for sure the pump was holding the motor back. Motor had good oil pressure so I let in run for a couple min and shut her down. I went to spin the shaft on the pump and to my surprises it was loose and I could spin it by hand. I decided that I should make sure and try it starting it with the pump installed to be sure it was the pump. I bolted it back in and to my surprise she started up and everything is fine. Again, I let it run a few minuets and its all good. I hooked up the coupler between the crank pully and the hydrostatic pump and again she fired up with no issues. I spent the day clearing snow...I have no idea what the problem was. My guess is that there was a valve or something stuck and when I used the other tractor to tow it around and push it into its shed it may have worked something loose, but not sure. I guess I will just have to see how she does in the next little while.