Pasquali Tractor Clutch Mod

[JoeZZ]

Garth,
I am not very familiar with water cooled Pasquali Tractors.
I would suspect a faulty water pump and/or a debris build up especially since you are mowing with it.
Let us know what you find.
Pictured is a Ruggerini RD92/2 on my Pasquali 997 that otherwise looked fairly clean....the oil is from a bad seal on an injector pump...

 

[Kossack]

Joe,

The end of my cable sheave has exactly the same rounded fitting that goes into the cup in the head of the adjusting bolt. What has happened in the past is that the rounded fitting has separated from the end of the sheave due to pressure from the angle at which the sheave enters the cupped head of the adjusting bolt. As I mentioned previously, this condition improved with the addition of stiff tubing to straighten the cable path.

My cable goes through the same cylinder shaped fixture that snugs up under the clutch pedal. The original cable may have had a similar "potato masher" shaped stop but many replacements later I simply double the cable over and apply a couple of small cable clamps. The stops I used to buy from Bob Coons were those nice cylinders with two clamping bolts. I always managed to over tighten and break them off. Maybe I'll check to see if Tom Brach has them in stock.

I didn't mention earlier that right now with the clutch cable off I can't manually move the clutch arm at all. I'm thinking that there is some problem binding up the throw out bearing. The pedal force needed after I first had the five finger clutch installed may have been an earlier indication of a problem other than simply the beefier clutch.

I'm certainly very interested to hear what you may have to say about this.

Paul

 

[JoeZZ]

Paul,

A couple of different things are going on here …let me touch on them separately.
The first picture shows all of the clutch cable assembly components that I used to redo my 997.

This is a typical setup often called a Bowden cable.

Starting at the lower left is a terminal block. This one is aluminum and I have some in steel. This is available at Lowes or Home Depot in the electrical department. It is the last part to be assembled on the cable at the clutch fork under the battery.

The next part up was made from a ¼” Allen Screw and fits into the top hole of the clutch fork. It was drilled out on a lathe so that the cable would slide through it. It is not at all necessary and I only used it because I had it.

The spring is the stock Pasquali item that goes between the clutch fork and a protrusion on the transmission.

Going to the right in the picture is the outer sheath. It is 40.75 inches long and the internal diameter is adequate to pass a 1/8”
cable though it.

At the end of the outer sheath is an adjusting bolt. This was made on a lathe. It is a standard 8-1.25 x 25 metric bolt. Drilled through to pass the 1/8” cable and the hex head end bored out to accept the end of the outer sheath. This keeps everything concentric. This is installed into the threaded tube on the foot rest.

The cable is 1/8” 7x19 aircraft cable 54” long. Available at most hardware stores etc. Be careful of the 7x19 designation as there are a variety of different ways cable is constructed. This is good for strength and flexibility.

Here is where we get to the parts that are breaking. If the terminal on the end slips off the cable that is one issue. If it breaks off with a stubble of cable stuck inside that is a whole different matter.

Quit simply if the terminal slips off it was not properly attached… regardless of clutch pedal effort. In other words a cable will break long before the terminal will slip.

If there is no stepped terminal on the very end of the cable at the clutch pedal this is an issue. If the cable end is secured with any other kind of screw on terminal this is a source of problems, as it will not allow the cable to pivot properly.

The last component is the solid steel lug that is cross drilled and step drilled. If you look at it the holes are a different size on each side of it.

Looking at the 2nd picture you can see where the cable end will not pass though this lug. As it is assembled in the clutch pedal
It allows the cable and the lug to rotate as the pedal moves. This relieves the stress on the cable and allows it to stay aligned better.

The cable that broke for me was passed all the way through both holes in the clutch pedal and then terminated with a cable clamp beneath that. A No-No in my book…

That’s all I have to say about that…

Joe

 

[mpilihp]

Hi Joe so your clutch cable setup looks different than what is on my 988. At the clutch pedal end my adjustment setup is separate from the cable. THe cable has a seperate metal end and it sets in a cup on the end of the adjustment screw that the cable goes through. THe double screw block thing Im assuming is not stock item. It also appears you have yours installed in the opposite direction than I have. My cable has a dead end up on the level by the tranny end and I have a wierd double threaded bolt at the clutch pedal end that the cable threads through and Is used to tighten the cable. Tom at italiantractors.com stated the double ended tension-er is stock.

As for issues with clutches, I replaced mine originally with a 3 fingered one but had issues adjusting it and Tom replaced it with a multi spline type spring clutch similiar to a car's which works well.

Also I agree beware of Mr Specke, I've waited months for parts and had to badger him to receive them. The last item was a clutch which I never got, I went to his business in person and was promised a check in the mail next week.... I managed to trade him a set of balloon tires for the dollars he owed me.

 

[JoeZZ]

The threaded adjuster bolt is only sitting at the end of the outer sheath ...it has a cup on the end for the sheath to fit into...its a bit clearer in the picture on page one. 1 picture =1000 words.

It does the same thing as your adjuster and is in the same place as you have pictured on page one.

I ended up getting a clutch fork boot and a few other items from Tom at Italian Tractors...the only way to buy new Pasquali parts.

Joe

 

[mpilihp]

HI Joe I see it, I would think you could have the same potential issue of the end of the sheath rubbing on the cable and causing it to fail since the cable has to make a sharp turn to go into the tunnel to be directed to the front of the tractor. My problems stopped after putting the pex around the cable to hold it straight up. I agree Tom at ItalianTractors is great to get parts and advice from.

~ Phil

 

[mpilihp]

I guess I spoke to soon, my clutch cable broke again! Ive had it with this cable setup. I havent taken it apart yet so not sure where it broke but will follow up. Reguardless I want to pursue a hydraulic clutch setup.

 

[CalG]

Bowden cables come in all sizes. Perhaps a larger size will last a life time..

(there are even suppliers that will custom produce based on dimensions. Search on term Bowden Cable)

 

[mpilihp]

Bowden cables come in all sizes. Perhaps a larger size will last a life time..

(there are even suppliers that will custom produce based on dimensions. Search on term Bowden Cable)

I like the idea but my concern is where the cable goes into the floorboard and the tension adjuster I am thinking a larger diameter cable say 3/16 or 1/4" wont fit. Im thinking manufacturing a larger base and adjuster is beyond my ability. Its a great idea and Im going to ask my mechanic if he can manufacture that for me.

THanks ~ Phil

 

[mpilihp]

So I looked at where the cable is failing and it doesnt appear to be up where the cable sheave contacts the cupped adjuster bolt which is good to know that my PVC brace is working to keep the cable straight. THe cable failed below where it leaves the floor board and into the round block used to secure it below the clutch pedal.

Sorry for the terrible picture but this is what it looks like


Comparing it with Joe ZZs setup it appears his cable has the end end at the clutch pedal end and on mine it dead ends at the lever to the forks in the bell housing. So its a totally different solution, Im quite sure Tom at Italian tractor said my setup was the stock way with the cable terminator with the double nuts was standard.

So any thoughts on why my cable is fraying here?

Thanks

~ Phil