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  1. #1
    Veteran Member workinallthetime's Avatar
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    Nov 2006
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    1,026
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    Tulsa, ok
    Tractor
    b3030 TLB,zd326

    Default cheep box blade or expensive box blade

    ok tbn fellas im in the market for a box blade. i can get a 5.5 foot United box blade for 350.00. I think this should do fine, but i see these 500 + blades all the time for sale. I know you have to look at metal size and welds but other than that i dont see a reason to shell out the bank for a more expensive blade. Does anyone have a united BB or know of any good reason why i should look elsewhere?
    equipment = L45 tlb, zd326p
    attachements = disk, pallet forks, box blade, 4n1, thumb, ld material bucket
    past equipment = b???? old slow no p/s, bx23 tlb, b3030 tlb, mf 175, jd301a

  2. #2
    Super Member greg_g's Avatar
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    Dec 2003
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    6,028
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    Western Kentucky
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    JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket

    Default Re: cheep box blade or expensive box blade

    A glance at the B3030 specs suggests that there's not enough tractor there to worry about tearing up an entry level boxblade. 1852 pounds of two wheel drive on R4 tires should lose traction before inflicting any significant damage on that United you're lookin' at.

    //greg//
    USN (Ret)
    Former Chinese tractor owner (x4)
    Current John Deere owner

  3. #3
    Veteran Member workinallthetime's Avatar
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    Tulsa, ok
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    b3030 TLB,zd326

    Default Re: cheep box blade or expensive box blade

    not that im arguing with myself but i used a "entry level" boxblade with a massy 175 and a deere 301 both were pretty heavy machines and didnt tear either one of those BB's up
    equipment = L45 tlb, zd326p
    attachements = disk, pallet forks, box blade, 4n1, thumb, ld material bucket
    past equipment = b???? old slow no p/s, bx23 tlb, b3030 tlb, mf 175, jd301a

  4. #4
    Super Member flusher's Avatar
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    Jun 2005
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    6,413
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    Northern California-Tehama Co.
    Tractor
    2008 Mahindra 5525, 1964 MF-135 diesel, 1951 Farmall Super A, 1951 Minneapolis Moline BF, 1945 Oliver 60 Row Crop, 1949 JD B widefront

    Default Re: cheep box blade or expensive box blade

    Quote Originally Posted by workinallthetime
    ok tbn fellas im in the market for a box blade. i can get a 5.5 foot United box blade for 350.00. I think this should do fine, but i see these 500 + blades all the time for sale. I know you have to look at metal size and welds but other than that i dont see a reason to shell out the bank for a more expensive blade. Does anyone have a united BB or know of any good reason why i should look elsewhere?
    The cheap box blades usually are pretty lightweight, so you'll have to add weight to make it work effectively. The more expensive BBs tend to be heavier.

    My cheap KK XB box blade (4-ft wide) that I use on my kubota B7510HST is way too lightweight to do simple things like strip turf/weeds without adding about 360 lb of extra weight (each plastic bucket is filled with 120 lb of concrete).
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  5. #5
    Veteran Member MJPetersen's Avatar
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    Feb 2007
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    1,255
    Location
    Warsaw, Poland
    Tractor
    YM 1510-D

    Default Re: cheep box blade or expensive box blade

    Quote Originally Posted by flusher
    My cheap KK XB box blade (4-ft wide) that I use on my kubota B7510HST is way too lightweight to do simple things like strip turf/weeds without adding about 360 lb of extra weight (each plastic bucket is filled with 120 lb of concrete).

    To be honest though I sincerely doubt that an "expensive" BB of the same size would weigh as much as your "wieghted" cheap BB, right?

    Mike in Warsaw

  6. #6
    Platinum Member
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    Oct 2006
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    Central PA

    Default Re: cheep box blade or expensive box blade

    I have seen the United brand in person. They are pretty stout for the price you pay. They have clevis pin hook-ups which are stronger and a larger tube to hold the rippers. I would have bought one, except that I was worried about the lift height for my bx1500. If I had a larger tractor, I would have bought one in a heart beat. Adding wieght is easy if you ever need to.

  7. #7
    Super Member flusher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    6,413
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    Northern California-Tehama Co.
    Tractor
    2008 Mahindra 5525, 1964 MF-135 diesel, 1951 Farmall Super A, 1951 Minneapolis Moline BF, 1945 Oliver 60 Row Crop, 1949 JD B widefront

    Default Re: cheep box blade or expensive box blade

    Quote Originally Posted by MJPetersen
    To be honest though I sincerely doubt that an "expensive" BB of the same size would weigh as much as your "wieghted" cheap BB, right?

    Mike in Warsaw
    My BB is 4-ft wide. Workallthetime's is 5.5 ft wide. But you're correct. That difference very likely does not add up to 360 lb. So he'll need extra weight.

  8. #8
    Super Member greg_g's Avatar
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    Dec 2003
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    Western Kentucky
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    JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket

    Default Re: cheep box blade or expensive box blade

    Don't listen to the BB weight arguments Dan, those guys expect gravity to do the work for them. It's one thing to take loose gravel and move it around, but a whole nuther ballgame if you want to grade/level. By design, it's the BB scarifiers (rippers) that take function to keep the BB from doing little more than kicking up dust for grading/leveling. You drop them down a level appropriate to the task, they then keep the BB at or under ground level.

    Draft control or check chains help of course, so you don't end up ripping too deep. But otherwise that Union box should be just fine, and $350 sounds like a reasonable price

    //greg//
    USN (Ret)
    Former Chinese tractor owner (x4)
    Current John Deere owner

  9. #9
    Super Member flusher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    6,413
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    Northern California-Tehama Co.
    Tractor
    2008 Mahindra 5525, 1964 MF-135 diesel, 1951 Farmall Super A, 1951 Minneapolis Moline BF, 1945 Oliver 60 Row Crop, 1949 JD B widefront

    Default Re: cheep box blade or expensive box blade

    Quote Originally Posted by greg_g
    Don't listen to the BB weight arguments Dan, those guys expect gravity to do the work for them. It's one thing to take loose gravel and move it around, but a whole nuther ballgame if you want to grade/level. By design, it's the BB scarifiers (rippers) that take function to keep the BB from doing little more than kicking up dust for grading/leveling. You drop them down a level appropriate to the task, they then keep the BB at or under ground level.

    Draft control or check chains help of course, so you don't end up ripping too deep. But otherwise that Union box should be just fine, and $350 sounds like a reasonable price

    //greg//
    My dinky little XB box blade works OK as it is for simple grading jobs (driveway gravel, bare ground). As you say, the scarifiers will help pull the blade into the bare ground.

    But the XB is way too lightweight to scrape turf off the ground (something I do a lot of around my place). With the scarifiers in the full down position, I end up with four ruts and the blade just slides over the turf. Add the weight and the XB cuts turf nicely. A lot cheaper than a Gannon box with hydraulic-controlled scarifiers.

  10. #10
    Super Member Farmwithjunk's Avatar
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    Mt Washington, Kentucky
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    Where do I begin.....

    Default Re: cheep box blade or expensive box blade

    In MOST cases, a box blade needs to be of sufficient weight REGARDLESS of scarifiers, draft control, or any other accessories, options, gimmicks, or wives tales. In theory the teeth should pull the box into the ground, but in practical application, that just doesn't happen most of the time.(unless you're dealing with "ideal circumstances") That doesn't mean weight is the ultimate solution, but you need those pounds. Look at what commercial landscapers, general contractors, and excavating contractors use. HEAVY boxes often in conjunction with tractors featuring hydraulic down pressure on the hitch. In many situations, you need the weight just to get the scarifiers to penetrate hard ground. Granted, on a small sub-compact or even some compacts, you wouldn't be able to make good use of that digging ability due to not enough traction or HP, but it's easier to gauge the heavier box UP with the hitch, preventing it from digging in too deep, than to repeatedly go over and over the same piece of ground just barely scratching the surface.

    More expensive boxes are GENERALLY heavier, but there is no direct correlation between weight and cost. If a lower cost box is of ample strenght, weight can be added as needed, usually for considerabley less than the cost of a "premium" box.

    I have a Wood HB84that's more than enough box for use on my 60 HP Deere and works like a charm on my 40 and 47 hp smaller tractors.
    There are three kinds of men;
    1.) The ones that learn by reading
    2.) The few who learn by observation
    3.) The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves.

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