Tiller Another tiller vs. harrow question

[ehellis]

Hello folks,
I asked a couple of months ago about using a Harrow vs. a Tiller and got some good suggestions. I now have a little more information and hope to get some more direction.
I have about 1 acre that has lots of clay, this area will initially be planted with grass seed mostly as erosion control. It won't be "Lawn", just a yard. I will be spreading about 2" of compost on top and need to work it in to a depth of 4-6". So, here we go, what implement will do the job best? I have a new BX24 but neither a Tiller nor Harrow and don't want to buy the wrong tool.

Thanks,
Mo

 

[Farmwithjunk]

For "mixing" soil, NOTHING will beat the performance of a tiller. Disc (harrow to some) will require many trips over the same ground, and probably still won't get the same results.

 

[Blk88GT]

Agreed, tiller is your best choice in my opinion.

 

[Z-Michigan]

+1 on both preceding posts.

 

[LoneCowboy]

Tiller

My usual rule is 2 acres and under is a tiller.
Over 2 acres is a disc.
Disc's really need speed and room to work and tillers don't care. (although they are much slower)

Also, make sure you rip up the ground first (scarifiers, either dedicated or on your box blade or something). Using a tiller on virgin ground is a good way to shorten the life of your tiller.

 

[jdmar]

Tiller with definately mix the soil better. You may consider adding some sand also. It is generally a cheap material and will help the clay to avoid sticking--also improving drainage.

Others (I think it was LoneCowboy) were right that untilled clay/virgin ground CAN be very hard on a tiller. Make sure your clutch is set right or you have a LOT of shear bolts on hand. I just tilled my neighbors garden for the first time. I took several passes getting deeper each time...I would rather take more time than beat the heck out of me and my equipment.

But if your soil is soft a tiller can really fly. I tilled about 11-12 acres this year with the rototiller but I have muck soil in Hartville Ohio and I can till at 2mph at full till depth with a 66" Befco tiller on a 4300 Deere (about 32 engine/28PTO Hp). In regular soil I rarely if ever go over 0.5 mph.

Another option??? You could rent a bull dozer for about $250 a day and really dig it all up and mix it together-maybe even find one with a ripper on the back. Have all your amendments piled ahead of time (compost, ?sand, ?mulch, ?sawdust, ?lime). Then break up and move around the clay, then push the other "ingredients" into your "stew." This way the main abuse is not on your equipment. And it will not abuse the dozer either. Then you can till and mix it all with whatever you need each year. If you use mulch or saw-dust be careful. Some woods iunhibit growth of other plants for a few years...makes it hard to plant a garden! Good luck!

Peter

 

[jbrumberg]

I recommend tiller. A tiller can also be used in very "tight" areas like flower beds, etc. Jay

 

[ehellis]

Thanks for all the responses, I guess I'll have to go Tiller shopping. It never ends does it?

Thanks,
Mo

 

[Z-Michigan]

It never ends does it?

Thanks,
Mo

No, it doesn't seem to!

While I don't own a tiller (and probably never will with my rocky soil), the King Kutter tillers get better reviews on here than most other KK products. I guess they're made in Italy by another company.

 

[jbrumberg]

Thanks for all the responses, I guess I'll have to go Tiller shopping. It never ends does it?

Thanks,
Mo

ehellis:

I/we were remiss in not formally welcoming you to TBN . Welcome to TBN ! By the way it never does end if you really have tractoritis- once you buy all the attachments you think you need some TBN'er will come up with a new attachment that you "know" you just have to have. After awhile having all these attachments and hopefully using them, you "need" to buy a larger tractor for all your new anticipated "projects" and the whole process starts all over again . It is a never ending, but great cycle Jay