there must be a better quick detach value

   / there must be a better quick detach value #1  

millpond

Silver Member
Joined
May 21, 2007
Messages
121
Tractor
NH TC 55 DA
This weekend I was working with Millonzi LD66 grapple and wanted to change
back to the bucket. The slide backs/pull back on female valve are incredibly hard to push back to release the male connections. Going back was even worse. I gripped "quick detach" noses with two hands and father inlaw tried to reconnect male into female. We had released all the pressure from the noses but it would not snap back in. After 10 minutes of super hard pushing the ball baring all fell out from the female valve. There is NO way one person can reattach the grapple. This can't be right. There must "quick detach" noses that can take the 2500 psi and can be removed/moved back into place. I know plenty of you have grapples, but how can I move quickly from FEL equipment without an army to hold back slides. I think the dealer just doesn't have the right stuff...Or is that the way these noses really are..?The rear remote valves, which are mounted so there's leverage slip in and out fine, but the front connection noses are free to move other than the zip ties along the boom ...? Help me understand this difficulty..?
 
   / there must be a better quick detach value #2  
millpond said:
This weekend I was working with Millonzi LD66 grapple and wanted to change
back to the bucket. The slide backs/pull back on female valve are incredibly hard to push back to release the male connections. Going back was even worse.

Sounds stuck to me. My backhoe quick-release connections come apart and go back together very easily - one handed operation in both directions.

Give the connector a hefty shot with PB Blaster or WD40 and see what happens.

JayC
 
   / there must be a better quick detach value
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Jay 4200 do people talk about better brands in disconnect valves..? Or they all should work about the same..?
 
   / there must be a better quick detach value #4  
millpond said:
Jay 4200 do people talk about better brands in disconnect valves..? Or they all should work about the same..?

I don't know about that - I think you'd be limited by whatever brand the local tractor shop or NAPA uses when you get your hoses made.

JayC
 
   / there must be a better quick detach value #5  
Millpond,
Are you shuting off the tractor and moving the joystick or control lever to relive the pressure on the lines?
 
   / there must be a better quick detach value #6  
I've got Parker (3/8" Power Beyond) and Pioneer (1/4" FEL - seems compatible with Buyer) QDs on my 2520, the only time I've experienced what you're describing is when I forgot to bleed off the pressure after I powered off the engine. Could it be that something's preventing the pressure bleed?
 
   / there must be a better quick detach value #7  
It depends on which quick connects you have and whether or not there is still pressure on the hose when disconnecting or connecting. They make quick connects that can connect and disconnect under pressure, but they will cost a little more. If your having trouble, is there any dirt in around the female connector as I have had trouble like this before and it was just dirt not allowing the female ring to release completely which will not let the male connector pop out and seem like it is jamming.

Steve
 
   / there must be a better quick detach value
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I am going to stop the engine with boom/grapple up and open. Then bleed all pressure lowering and closing the grapple grippers but what about the sleave which took two hands to push back that's not under pressure right..?
 
   / there must be a better quick detach value #9  
kennyd said:
Millpond,
Are you shuting off the tractor and moving the joystick or control lever to relive the pressure on the lines?

That's the best way to do it.... lower the implement to the ground, shut off the tractor, then wiggle the valve handle in both directions several times. That relieves pressure from both sides of the circuit.;)
 
   / there must be a better quick detach value #10  
millpond said:
I am going to stop the engine with boom/grapple up and open. Then bleed all pressure lowering and closing the grapple grippers but what about the sleave which took two hands to push back that's not under pressure right..?

More then likely, a bit of pressure still built up. As Mossy and the other men wrote, move the joystick in all drections several times.

If difficulty when connecting those QD's, put a rag over the male end and tap it with a mallet (plastic or dead blow) to relieve pressure. For the female fitting, use a pin punch (flat ended) or dowel to push against the plunger.
The hydraulic fluid in implements setting outside (especially in the sun) can expand from the heat, increasing pressures...even if the pressure had been relieved previously.
 
 
 
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