Box blade size

   / Box blade size #1  

duanet

Silver Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2001
Messages
121
Location
Near Ithaca, NY
Tractor
JD4100 HST
I realize there have been other posts on this subject, but I want to ask the question in a different way. My JD 4100 HST with loaded R4 tires measures a little over 47" overall width, so a 4' box blade will just cover my tracks. Do you think I'd be better off buying a 4' or going to a 5' to cover a little more ground? My concerns are power (20HP) and traction. I have a lot of roots in the 4 acres I'm clearing for garden, walking paths and driveways.

Duane
 
   / Box blade size #2  
Duane, I tried a light duty 5' box blade on a B7100 (16hp) and would have kept it if the welds hadn't broken, so then I got a 4' Monroe Tufline box blade. No one can tell you which will be best without knowing exactly how you'll be using it, and whether the brands and/or models you're considering are light or heavy weights. If you're wanting to smooth or spread loose material, you'll be happier with the 5' model (cover more ground), and if you want to lower the scarifier teeth to pull out roots, or to break up hard ground, you won't be able to pull it (although the simple solution is to only lower some; not all, of the scarifiers and/or don't lower them too deep). Do you have a FEL? If so, personally, I want my box blade to be as wide as the FEL bucket. In other words, I don't know which will be better for you/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif, but I'd probably go with the 5' one.
 
   / Box blade size #3  
I asked these guys the same question, and eventually settled on the 48" size, and I ordered a Kingkutter 'cause it was low priced and built well enough for the horsepower I have available. It arrived Friday, the ground is frozen so no performance report yet. However, here is my rational: I bought the box blade for several reasons, one being for the heaviest ground engaging dirt moving. I realize from past experience that the loader bucket is not the right tool to do landscaping on flat ground, it won't bite into the normal soil surface or turf. I have a building site to level which contains tree roots and the box blade will start there. Second on the list, I needed loader ballast. Someone on this list said, "yea, if you can get an attachment that actually does work and use it for ballast too, that sure beats a box full of cement or rocks". So I got the little box blade home last Friday and by Saturday afternoon I had a 360 pound slab of steel plate bolted to the back of it. Now I have about the correct loader ballast (box blade is 350, total is 700 plus with hydraulic top link). The three-point has no down-force, so the extra weight on the box will help make it more effective, and I can lift it if it wont pull, then some of the weight goes onto the tires, so that'l help too. Incidently, the box blade measures 49" wide, which covers my 4100 rear tires nicely. Since it is just as wide as the tractor it is not a big nuisance back there as a ballast. If you buy a bigger one, plan on a ballst box also 'cause it will limit your manuverability if wider than your tractor. It is also a great idea to lower it to the ground if you are stationary and lifting and want tractor stability, like having a huge anchor. Lastly, the horsepower question comes into the equation. Part of the deal is also weight, because if you don't have the tractor weight you cant get the traction to the ground to pull the box. But assuming you can ballast the wheels to pull the box you buy, the horsepower then determines the RATE at which you can do the job. If you buy too big a box, you can shift down, lift the box, lift half the scarifiers as mentioned in previous post, etc. For a box blade this should work just fine. For certain tillage tools it does not work to slow down as you will then lose "action". Like a field digger, you want thengs flying around a bit. One more thing, the smaller ones are usually cheaper, but lighter weight. Then you can beef it up where needed. I plan on adding some sacraficial plow shares on the side plates, to beef up this wear-prone area (presently it is 1/4" material). Good luck, try one out first if you still have doubts.
 
   / Box blade size #4  
Duane,

I would stick with the 48" Box blade and I still think your 20 hp tractor will find that a challenge to go through roots... /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

Using a blade to cut dirt is one thing {I don't have a box blade, only a rear blade}, but as soon as you start messing with Mother Nature and start "hooking on some roots"... with that small of grunt horsepower and basically no mass {light weight of JD4100}... a small 1/2" root can stop you dead in your tracks...

But... it's one of those things you'll have to experience first hand... then you'll know... /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
 
   / Box blade size #5  
Duane, I use a 5’ on my 21 hp Kubota that works well most of the time and does not sometimes. I think that will be the case with either size you buy. When you start talking about roots, that covers a great deal of ground. (no pun intended/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif) Mine is mostly used on a hard packed gravel road (9/10’s of a mile) and I only try to grade it when the moisture content is high. On loose dirt, never a problem. Roots, well I helped a friend who had some stumps ground and the backhoe had problems. The boxblade would not have done the job. I think it depends on how you see using it the most. I would not drop down in size for my needs.

MarkV
 
   / Box blade size #6  
Duane, I have a 54" Landpride box blade for my 4100. The tractor handles it very well. I don't know at all about how it would work pulling roots though. It sure works fine for grading and digging in dirt.
 
   / Box blade size #7  
Jim, I added about 210# of steel to the top of my 54" box primarily for loader ballast, but I like how it improves the box blade performance so well that I never remove the weight.
 
 
 
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