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  1. #1

    Default Middlebuster

    I have seen many treads on the uses of middle busters. I want to use one for cutting trenches for 4" drainage pipe. I think it perfect ( comments ). I think I want one. During the discussions I have heard pricing at about $100-$150. I live in california the "bendover state". I am getting pricing at around $250 ( Gearmore ). Is there a place on-line to buy these at lower costs.

    Chrisfromcal

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Posts
    23
    Location
    Swan Lake, Montana
    Tractor
    JD 4300

    Default Re: Middlebuster

    Northern tool shows them in their catalog for about $90 plus freight. I built one out of some pieces of an old cultivator which works pretty well as a subsoiler but I doubt that it would work very well to make a trench for 4" pipe as it doesn't pull the soil out of the trench very well. If you don't have a lot of pipe to run you might want to consider renting a chain trencher. You can cut a lot of trench in a short amount of time if your soil isn't very rocky. Good luck.

  3. #3
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Posts
    436
    Location
    Mississippi
    Tractor
    Kubota M-4900

    Default Re: Middlebuster

    Chris,

    I have a homemade middle buster that I have used for trenching for small water pipe. It does pretty good but as hermit said it doesn't throw the dirt out of the hole very well. About 10" is about all I have ever gotten out of it and that's with somebody standing on the plow to force it in the ground.

    Also if you plow in sod it tends to build up in front of the plow (at least it does on mine). One time it built up so much it bent the guard on my pto. Good luck!

    TBone

  4. #4
    Epic Contributor Bird's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
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    37,754
    Location
    Texas

    Default Re: Middlebuster

    <font color=blue>About 10" is about all I have ever gotten out of it and that's with somebody standing on the plow to force it in the ground</font color=blue>

    TBone, with a middle buster, I never add any weight nor need to. Shorten your top link to aim the point more downward and it should pull itself on down.

  5. #5
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Posts
    436
    Location
    Mississippi
    Tractor
    Kubota M-4900

    Default Re: Middlebuster

    Thanks Bird, I'll try that. I'm plum ignorant on plows.

    TBone

  6. #6
    Epic Contributor Bird's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Posts
    37,754
    Location
    Texas

    Default Re: Middlebuster

    TBone, you'd like the bottom of the plow to be running level when it's down to the depth you want so you can shorten the top link to go deeper, lengthen it to go shallower, then just let the 3-point down all the way (float). Naturally, it's easier to adjust on the fly if you have a hydraulic top link.

  7. #7
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Posts
    210
    Location
    Placerville, CA.
    Tractor
    1998 New Holland 1920

    Default Re: Middlebuster

    OK Experts. I've got 12 Acres, most of which is overgrown (12"-24") hay type grass. If I want to prep my fields for either grwoing something, or just to keep the weeds from becoming a fire hazard, do I:

    1. Mow with a Bush Hog
    2. Plow with a bottom plow
    3. Smooth with Box Scraper (with or without points)
    Or a disc?

    Or
    1. Plow with a bottom Plow
    2. Smooth with a Box Scraper
    Or Disc

    Or
    1. Do everything with Box Scraper first using the points to dig and turn and then smooth?

    In other words, do I really need all these implements to turn and smooth the field. Seems a Bottom Plow would be the least expensive way to go and I imagine I'd have to cut the grass again after Spring growth. Future Plans include Horses (2) and grazing pastures. Future Future plans may include more acerage with an equestrian facility to lease to some Horse folks.

    Thanks in advance. Todd in Placerville.



  8. #8
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    1,384
    Location
    michigan thumb
    Tractor
    jd 970, JD GT235

    Default Re: Middlebuster

    I replaced my potato plow blade with a twisted chisel plow blade the mounting hole spacing was the same. The blade can be found at farm supply stores. They are about 3.5in wide and if soil is right moisture, ground speed...and so on the dirt will slide up along the blade and windrow to the side, but as you may have figured some shovel work is still required.

  9. #9
    Epic Contributor Bird's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
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    37,754
    Location
    Texas

    Default Re: Middlebuster

    Only Experts? I've heard an "ex" is a has been and a "spurt" is a drip under pressure, so maybe I qualify?[img]/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif[/img]

    You can do any of the things you mentioned; some just work better and faster than others.

    If all you want is to keep down the fire hazard, I'd just mow it short with a brush hog. If you want to plant something or get rid of the vegetation entirely, then I'd go with the bottom plow (preferably after mowing, although it may not be absolutely necessary to mow first). And you can smooth it with a box blade, but the disc would certainly be better and faster. And of course, a tiller would be a lot slower than a disc, but would get even better results.

    And some may recommend spraying with Round-Up first if you really want to get rid of all existing vegetation.

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