Box Scaper Questions

[mtg65]

I just got a woods GB72 box scraper and I had a blast yesterday redoing my gravel road. I had a lot of good material to work with - several years of bringing in one or two loads here and there over the last several years. I was keeping things level with a JD1010 dozer which worked OK but took quite some time to do. The box scraper laid the crusher run out like a carpet.

Now here is my situation: The scraper worked great on my road but I tried to use it on a section of land that I am looking to level and it did not dig in as much as I thought it should. It looked as the shanks were barely penetrating the ground and the box was not being pulled down towards the ground. I have shortened the top link as much as possible and set the shanks in the lowest setting. The box still seems to be riding over the ground and not ripping it up. What would the max depth of the shanks be if the 3pth settings were ideal?? I know I may have to add weight but I think the shanks should penetrate deeper than they are.

I will be using the JD1010 to rough up my future lawn before really attacking it with the box scraper. I just want to make sure that I have the 3pt settings correct before I do.

Many Thanks for the input!

 

[jbrumberg]

mtg65:

Welcome to TBN and great pictures !. I have a GB60 and it is fun to work my driveway as well as several of my lawn leveling project areas with it. I wish I had more driveway . I have had no problems with my shanks penetrating grass and dirt, but I have not had your experience with "shank skipping". Your top link looks correct. I would suspect that you have to add more weight. Jay

 

[Knotbored]

I have the opposite problem with my box scraper- it digs in so agressivly that it almost lifts the front of my Kabota.
I was told to adjust the top link so the bottom edge of the scraper sides are parallel with the ground. It apears in the photo that your front edge is so high that the back "blade" holds the shanks off the ground-that is a strange condition if your top link is shortened. It seems you need a shorter link to make it level.

 

[3RRL]

mtg65,
Nice box blade you got here.
IMO, it looks like you could stand a shorter top link so that the front of your boxblade is dipped down more. That will keep the back blade from touching the ground and only your scarifiers touch ... leading to more pressure on them alone, and not the back of the box.

See how my box is tilted forward, with the rear blades off the ground?



If your top link is at it's shortest already, try using the top hole on your 3pt connection if that helps shorten the distance between the 3pt and the box blade. It might be just enough to tip it a little more maybe?

Another thing on really hard ground is to take every other scarifier out so only 2 or 3 are in the box blade. Again, the idea is to have whatever weight there is on only those 2 or 3 points. It might dig in better then. The other thing is to add as much weight as you can to the box, like has been suggested.

Good luck and let us know what you do.

 

[JerryG]

If you have really hard ground (rocks) like we do here, you will have to or really need to have more weight added. I put an 8" (?) pipe with 7/8" side walls. It weights about 250 lbs.. It works like a charm unless it is really dry. At least I had to put more weight on to get mine to work right.
Rob, on these tractors the lower hole makes the distance shorter.

 

[KAB]

You need a shorter toplink. From looking at the pictures with the toplink fully retracted the rippers and the cutting blade both touching the ground equally. Ideally the cutting blade should be off of the ground letting the rippers penetrate the ground. (as seen in 3RRL's picture) If you have a lot of work to do a hydraulic top link will help a lot. I have found that a small adjustment makes a big difference in how well the BB will work.

Kurt

 

[3RRL]

Rob, on these tractors the lower hole makes the distance shorter.

My bad...
Thanks for clearing that up Jerry, since I am not familiar with his tractor.
From the photo mtg65 posted, it looked like (at least to me) it would get shorter by moving it up to the top hole.



Adding weight is certainly a good thing for just about any boxblade. When I modified mine, I added all those gears, carrier plates, braces and cylinder mounts, for those hydraulic scarifiers, it weighs in right at 1,000 lbs. It not only made a HUGE difference in penetration with the scarifiers, but cutting with the blade forward and backwards too. Even smoothing is better with more weight.

mtg65,
Another suggestion is to add Pat's EZ change system. That would push the box back about 3" or 4". Then it would tilt forward more. Much easier on and off for all you other implements too. They are well worth it.

 

[prosperity]

Another suggestion is to add Pat's EZ change system. That would push the box back about 3" or 4". Then it would tilt forward more. Much easier on and off for all you other implements too. They are well worth it.

Excellent suggestion!

Actually, I didn't even think of that being I had my Pat's system on my tractor before I got my box blade.

With my standard top link, I can get a good tilt both fore and aft on my box blade.

Looking at the OP's photo, I definitely would agree that the issue is with the top link not getting short enough to effectively tilt the box forward enough.

 

[mtg65]

I found a slightly shorter top link, which I was able to make even shorter. The one I modified is now about 2 1/2 inches shorter than the original and it makes a huge difference! I am able to tilt the box forward (like yours 3rrl) and it grips and rips. Does a nice job.

I am also going to add more weight as suggested and eventually the Pat's EZ change system to cut down on the 3pt hitch up aggravation:

 

[Chuck-KY]

I agree with the shorter top link for your tractor. This is a common problem with some 3 pt. attachments when using compact tractors with their shorter lower arms. I had the same problem with my JD 790 and solved it by making a set of hook attachments like Pat Greenwell sells. Beside solving the short arm problem, it is so much handier for everything else and you don't have to worry about shortening PTO shafts to keep from bottoming out the side and tearing up the u-joints. Don't make your own unless you really enjoy this kind of project or you're hard-headed like I am, buy them from Pat cheaper and they have a better warrenty than the stuff I make, which is none.