Brush hog blade removal
- Thread starter NYFarmboy
- Start date
vallyfarm
Silver Member
Reach under and give the outer edge of the blade a shake/wiggle and the blade and bolt should gall right out. If not use some penetrating oil to loosten it up. Make sure to always put some grease on the sholders of those bolts when you re-install them. Mike
SkunkWerX
Platinum Member
What valleyfarm said.
A few whacks with a hefty rubber mallet may help loosen it.
I just rebuilt/painted my 4 ft. Rotary Cutter.
I found it just as easy to remove the stump-jumper pan from the gear shaft, with baldes still attached, pulled the whole thing out, then went after the blades.
If you already have the blade nuts loose, you are halfway home.
you can also try to penetrating oil from topside and underneath.
If you are tempted to hit it, use a block of wood, no hammer-against-metal for fear of buggering the threads.
I am a firm believer in anti-sieze grease, especially on things like implements.
Oh, BTW.... I busted a 1 1/8" Lockwasher while doing my rebuild, they are the standard lockwasher for a Rotary Cutter blade bolt.
I had to buy a box of 10 of them (McMaster) If anyone has trouble finding them, and needs one or two, give me a hollar.
I checked TSC they didn't carry just the Lockwasher, but had the entire bolt,nut, washer assembly for a hefty chunk of money.
Lockwashers, get em while their hot.
A few whacks with a hefty rubber mallet may help loosen it.
I just rebuilt/painted my 4 ft. Rotary Cutter.
I found it just as easy to remove the stump-jumper pan from the gear shaft, with baldes still attached, pulled the whole thing out, then went after the blades.
If you already have the blade nuts loose, you are halfway home.
you can also try to penetrating oil from topside and underneath.
If you are tempted to hit it, use a block of wood, no hammer-against-metal for fear of buggering the threads.
I am a firm believer in anti-sieze grease, especially on things like implements.
Oh, BTW.... I busted a 1 1/8" Lockwasher while doing my rebuild, they are the standard lockwasher for a Rotary Cutter blade bolt.
I had to buy a box of 10 of them (McMaster) If anyone has trouble finding them, and needs one or two, give me a hollar.
I checked TSC they didn't carry just the Lockwasher, but had the entire bolt,nut, washer assembly for a hefty chunk of money.
Lockwashers, get em while their hot.
heymack
Silver Member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2006
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- Home Sweet Home, Texas
- Tractor
- Ford 8N, Ford 555A, New Holland TM120, New Holland TT60A
The first time I replaced my blades I had to beat the ever living crud out of the bolts to get them loose even after letting them soak in PB Blaster. Like mentioned above, be careful not to ruin the bolt threads. I kept the nut slightly attached then used a steel rod as an extension between bolt and hammer. These days, with more frequent attention and anti-seize, blade removal is just a few minute process.
You're probably home free, except for pounding a bit with a rubber mallet. However, there's a few brush cutters (one being a Woods version that I thankfully don't have) that has a cotter pin in addition to the large nut on the huge pin (my 72" Woods uses 1 13/16" nuts on bolts with an aligning shaft - and I need a 3/4" impact wrench just to loosen the darn bolt, which has been, thank you, lubed with lithium grease from the last time I went through the ordeal). So, make sure removing the nut totally frees the bolt shaft, and that you don't have something else, like a pin, holding things up - if not, pound away.
Use your Ox/Ac torch to heat the bolt & surrounding area up. The heat / cool cycle will break the rust that is holding it fast.
Then use the anti-seaze lubricant.
An old timer once told me that threaded fasteners get one of two things, lock-tite or anti-seaze. I think he was right.
jb
Then use the anti-seaze lubricant.
An old timer once told me that threaded fasteners get one of two things, lock-tite or anti-seaze. I think he was right.
jb
Ford960
Silver Member
Back the nut off a couple of turns and then use a steel bar on the bolt/nut and give a few hits with a hammer from the top. You need the shock to break the bolt free, a rubber mallet is useless. After hitting it a couple of times loosen the nut to see if the bolt broke loose, if not turn the nut back down a couple of turns and repeat.
I bought a cheap 1" impact from HF to R&R the blades on my BH 305, and still have to use the above technique to drop the bolts. These bolts are tapered and have a key that must be aligned with a keyway in the blade holder.
Putting grease or anti-seize on a tapered fit is not something that I do.
Good Luck
I bought a cheap 1" impact from HF to R&R the blades on my BH 305, and still have to use the above technique to drop the bolts. These bolts are tapered and have a key that must be aligned with a keyway in the blade holder.
Putting grease or anti-seize on a tapered fit is not something that I do.
Good Luck
hcormier
New member
I too am working on removing my first set of Squealer blades. Got the nuts off the stumpjumper, tapped on the bolt a little, sprayed penetrating oil, and came in to cool off and get some help. Didn't know if the bolts were threaded or not. Seems they aren't. Need a bigger hammer, I guess.
SPYDERLK
Super Star Member
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- Feb 28, 2006
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Do not hammer directly on the bolt. Put the nut on and use a big steel rod or spacer as a "punch" to deliver the force to the nut from the hammer blow. Try to locate the punch as on center as possible. If you can balance the punch on the nut you can use both hands on the hammer. A 3 or 4# is appropriate.
larry
larry