Rotary Cutter bush hog cs-100p chipper/shredder

   / bush hog cs-100p chipper/shredder #1  

coasterez

Banned
Joined
Feb 8, 2006
Messages
492
Location
Sykesville, MD
Tractor
Kioti CK25, JD425 AWS
I just bought a bush hog cs-100p chipper/shredder used. It's in very good shape and looks to only have a few hours (58 according to the previous owner) on it. I paid $600. Did I get a good deal?

Used it today. Works very good, especially the shredder. Though I think the chipper blades need sharpening/replacing. I'm going to buy a new set and send the old set out to have them professionally sharpened on a computerized machine. Then I'll have two sets that I can cycle through sharpening. I was quoted $140 for a new set, which I think is outrageous for 4 3"x2" pieces of steel with only one cutting edge (these are not reversable). But, then they know you don't have much choice.

The rubber shield on the shredder hopper did tear up today while shredding. It looked perfect when I started. I'm not sure if I abused it, or whether it was just brittle from age. Does anyone have any input here? I was shredding almost all dry stuff. I left a fair number of side limbs on and the machine just ate them up. Did I tear up the shield by leaving the branches on? Is this normal? Anyway, I ordered some polyester reinforced SBR rubber from McMaster-Carr today and will use it to make a new shield. Cost will be $40. Hopefully it will last a while.

Question on powering up/down the shredder. I power it up by starting at about 1400 rpm, depressing the clutch, engaging the PTO, and releasing the clutch. I then bring it to PTO RPMs (2600). Is this the correct way? For power down, I reduce throttle to idle, depress the clutch, disengage the PTO, and release the clutch. The shredder takes about 3 minutes to come to a complete stop, a lot of momentum in there. Also, is this the correct way to do this to minimize belt/PTO wear? Neither tractor nor shredder seemed to complain using this method.
 
   / bush hog cs-100p chipper/shredder #2  
I have a Wallenstein chipper that I start and stop pretty much as you describe. Anything with a 100+ lbs flywheel needs a bit of a soft start. Green material is easier on the cutting blades than dry material. If the blades were already a bit dull, it doesn't take that much more material to make them unusable. Getting them professionally sharpened is a good investment. If they get out of balance you can count on shortened bearing life.

Cheers, Erik
 
   / bush hog cs-100p chipper/shredder
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I have a lot of dry wood to cut up. Should I wait to sharpen/change the chipper blades?
 
   / bush hog cs-100p chipper/shredder #4  
I have the same chipper. It is made by a company in Kansas called Goossen. They still make the same chipper, but Bush Hog no longer has it private labeled. Goossen will send you an owners manual at no charge, if you need one.

Re: shredder chute. I bought mine used and probably have 50 or 60 hours on it myself. The original shredder guard is just fine. What size material were you shredding? Is the size warning sticker still visible on the shredder hopper? Never put anything over 1-1/4 inches into the shredder.

I bought a set of blades from Goossen. I remember them being expensive, but not that expensive. I don't think I could find the receipt, but you should check them out before you pay 140.

Does yours have the blower? If so, blade changing is quite a chore, but I wouldn't give up my blower for easier blade changing.

I have had mine torn down just about to a pile of nuts and bolts. If you have any questions or problems, I'll be glad to help.

Jinman has the same unit, too.
 
   / bush hog cs-100p chipper/shredder
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks Jeffinsgf for the input. I knew it was made by Goosen. The manual can also be downloaded from Goosen's website.

Goosen lists the chipper blades for $127, and then there is shipping. So the dealer is probably selling for about the same once shipping is accounted for.

I am staying close to the 1.25" limit. Most of this stuff is old soft wood that's been piled up for years in my woods. I finally got tired of it and want it to go away. After the shield got torn up I tried tearing a piece of it by hand and sure did tear easily. Hopefully the polyester reinforced stuff will be a bit stronger.

Posts by you and Jinman are what prompted me to look at/for the Bush hog. I don't have the blower. Though it would be nice to have, I don't really need it. Plan to leave the chips pretty much where they fall.

Machine is nice and simple. It should be easy to work on. The original owner didn't appear to have ever greased it. The brass zerks were prestine and without any grease residue. It's a good thing it hasn't seen much use.

What do you think about the dry wood? Will it significantly shorten blade life?
 
   / bush hog cs-100p chipper/shredder #6  
coasterez said:
The rubber shield on the shredder hopper did tear up today while shredding. It looked perfect when I started. I'm not sure if I abused it, or whether it was just brittle from age. Does anyone have any input here? I was shredding almost all dry stuff. I left a fair number of side limbs on and the machine just ate them up. Did I tear up the shield by leaving the branches on? Is this normal? Anyway, I ordered some polyester reinforced SBR rubber from McMaster-Carr today and will use it to make a new shield. Cost will be $40. Hopefully it will last a while.
SBR (Styrene Butadiene Rubber) does not hold up well in sun exposed applications. If you leave the chipper where the sun can hit it, the SBR will likely break down in 3 months or less unless it has special inhibitors added. Try to find some EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer) rubber. It will stand 30+ years in the sun.
 
   / bush hog cs-100p chipper/shredder #7  
coasterez said:
I just bought a bush hog cs-100p chipper/shredder used. It's in very good shape and looks to only have a few hours (58 according to the previous owner) on it. I paid $600. Did I get a good deal?

Question on powering up/down the shredder. I power it up by starting at about 1400 rpm, depressing the clutch, engaging the PTO, and releasing the clutch. I then bring it to PTO RPMs (2600). Is this the correct way? For power down, I reduce throttle to idle, depress the clutch, disengage the PTO, and release the clutch. The shredder takes about 3 minutes to come to a complete stop, a lot of momentum in there. Also, is this the correct way to do this to minimize belt/PTO wear? Neither tractor nor shredder seemed to complain using this method.


I think you're doing fine as far as your starting and stopping processes. Always try to reduce the shock load on the tractor and implement gear box (i.e. Don't engage the PTO at high RPM).
BTW...NICE chipper...and, for $600!! Wow! Wish I'd got that deal! I priced one (a Goosen) which looked like it had been through WW II and the owner wouldn't budge from $1500.
 
   / bush hog cs-100p chipper/shredder
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I considered EPDM, but was a little concerned on its tear strength. The oringinal felt like EPDM. I used it for our pond. So, I know it's good stuff for sun/weather exposure. Went with the SBR because I don't plan to leave it in the sun, except when using it. Might not last, but the really good stuff, with fiberglass reinforcement is outrageously expensive. Gonna keep my eye out for some good scrap.
 
   / bush hog cs-100p chipper/shredder
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks Roy,

I thought it was a good buy too. That's why I drove 300 miles to pick it up. Close to my mom. So, I got to visit her while I was there.
 
   / bush hog cs-100p chipper/shredder #10  
I'll make a suggestion on the knives before you order them. Remove one and take to a local machine shop. I have a Super Apache chipper / shredder by a company called WW Grinder... whom i assume is no longer in business. I couldn't quite get the tolerances correct between the knives and the anvil (a slight manufacturing defect, i think), so i had a local machine shop make me a new set out of hardened tool steel, 1/4 inch wider than the originals. Solved my tolerance problem...... the cost ??? A whopping $25 !! And i had the new ones the next day. Might be worth a shot for you.

As far as getting it going.... you are right. Start out slowly. On my chipper, i've got to start out just above idle, and gennnnnttttllllllyyy let out the clutch. Any more than that, and i shear the pin in the shaft. I make sure i have plenty of extras on hand.

You got a great deal on your machine @ $600 !
 
 
 
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