RalphVa
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2003
- Messages
- 7,873
- Location
- Charlottesville, VA, USA
- Tractor
- JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R
Turning Hammers on Mac TPH-122
This is a MUCH easier job than on the TroyBilt that I had. The 4 sided hammers in the shredder assembly can be turned until all 4 sides are rounded off. Performance is best with sharp-edged hammers but isn稚 bad until the leading edge of the hammers get very rounded. Sharp-edged hammers å*µrab stuff more readily but don稚 really improve the shredding per se.
Remove both the discharge flapper and screen by removing the 4 shafts holding them in place. Note the bottom shaft on the screen has no pin. Just rotate its stay on the back end of the unit out of the way and pull the pin. Just behind where the screen was is a round, swinging door held in place by a ï½½ bolt and nut, on the PTO side of the unit. Remove the cover over the drive belt on the PTO side to get at this bolt. The cover is held in place by 4 ï½½ bolts that go into slip-on automotive-type body nuts. So, just extract the bolts and put them aside. Loosen the nut holding the round plate and swing the plate up out of the way. Tighten the nut to hold the plate in place. This hole is where the hammer shafts are extracted.
You can probably do this job through the discharge area, but it痴 much easier if you remove the shredder hopper. This is held on by 4 bolts with self-locking nuts. Remove the nuts first. Then work the bolts out through the brass nuts made into the rubber grommets that hold and cushion the base of the shredder hopper. If you want to treat yourself, go buy an open end ス wrench that ratchets. A regular socket cannot be used on 3 out of the 4 bolts, even with a universal. There isn稚 room for a box end ratchet ranch. Removing the bolts will straighten out the rubber grommets, but they値l stay in place as you lift the hopper off the bolts. Three of the four bolts will fall out if you haven稚 pulled them away before this.
The hammer shafts are held in place by split pins. Find a 2 or 3 foot long 1 by board to put down through the hammer assembly to keep it from rotating. Place a pair of vice grips and put them on the shaft head to keep it from rotating. Place vice grips so that the solid end of the split pin is up; you want the split or serrated-looking end down. With an approximately 3/8 punch, drive the pin down even with the shaft. Then use either another pair of vice grips or a small punch or even a small L-shaped allen wrench and pull or drive the pin through the shaft. Pulling it is best, to keep from having to look for where the pin went.
Note the position of the 4 shafts and spacers and hammers. Two of the shafts have 6 spacers of equal length on opposite sides. The other two shafts have 2 short spacers and 4 longer spacers. One of these pairs will have the hammers staggered to the outside. The other shaft of the pair will have hammers staggered to the inside.
Rotate the hammer assembly so that the hammer shaft with pin removed is in front of the little hole mentioned earlier (removing the 1 by and vice grip, of course). Note whether the hammers are to the outside or to the inside. Push the shaft out with your finger (THIS is where this job is SO MUCH easier than what it was on the TroyBilt. On it, the spacers were often so mashed up that they almost welded themselves to the shafts, necessitating driving the shafts through the assembly with another spare shaft or similar.) Collect the pieces. If hammers were to the outside, rotate them and place them to the inside this time. This will even out wear on the shafts. If youæ±*e down to the 4th side of the hammer, make sure the square side is facing out now. With only one corner rounded, I placed that end on the shaft with the rounded part to the back.
Rotate the reassembled shaft back to the top and put the pin back in, smooth side down. I don稚 think you have to overdo putting the pin back in. Just drive it in snug.
Replace hopper and its 4 bolts into the grommet nuts. On the bolt just above the top connection on the 3ph, place the locker nut on as soon as you can, because if you drive the nut through very far, you won稚 be able to get it on.
Rotate the little door and retighten that bolt and nut. Place belt cover back in place with its 4 bolts.
Replace discharge screen and flapper.
Ralph
This is a MUCH easier job than on the TroyBilt that I had. The 4 sided hammers in the shredder assembly can be turned until all 4 sides are rounded off. Performance is best with sharp-edged hammers but isn稚 bad until the leading edge of the hammers get very rounded. Sharp-edged hammers å*µrab stuff more readily but don稚 really improve the shredding per se.
Remove both the discharge flapper and screen by removing the 4 shafts holding them in place. Note the bottom shaft on the screen has no pin. Just rotate its stay on the back end of the unit out of the way and pull the pin. Just behind where the screen was is a round, swinging door held in place by a ï½½ bolt and nut, on the PTO side of the unit. Remove the cover over the drive belt on the PTO side to get at this bolt. The cover is held in place by 4 ï½½ bolts that go into slip-on automotive-type body nuts. So, just extract the bolts and put them aside. Loosen the nut holding the round plate and swing the plate up out of the way. Tighten the nut to hold the plate in place. This hole is where the hammer shafts are extracted.
You can probably do this job through the discharge area, but it痴 much easier if you remove the shredder hopper. This is held on by 4 bolts with self-locking nuts. Remove the nuts first. Then work the bolts out through the brass nuts made into the rubber grommets that hold and cushion the base of the shredder hopper. If you want to treat yourself, go buy an open end ス wrench that ratchets. A regular socket cannot be used on 3 out of the 4 bolts, even with a universal. There isn稚 room for a box end ratchet ranch. Removing the bolts will straighten out the rubber grommets, but they値l stay in place as you lift the hopper off the bolts. Three of the four bolts will fall out if you haven稚 pulled them away before this.
The hammer shafts are held in place by split pins. Find a 2 or 3 foot long 1 by board to put down through the hammer assembly to keep it from rotating. Place a pair of vice grips and put them on the shaft head to keep it from rotating. Place vice grips so that the solid end of the split pin is up; you want the split or serrated-looking end down. With an approximately 3/8 punch, drive the pin down even with the shaft. Then use either another pair of vice grips or a small punch or even a small L-shaped allen wrench and pull or drive the pin through the shaft. Pulling it is best, to keep from having to look for where the pin went.
Note the position of the 4 shafts and spacers and hammers. Two of the shafts have 6 spacers of equal length on opposite sides. The other two shafts have 2 short spacers and 4 longer spacers. One of these pairs will have the hammers staggered to the outside. The other shaft of the pair will have hammers staggered to the inside.
Rotate the hammer assembly so that the hammer shaft with pin removed is in front of the little hole mentioned earlier (removing the 1 by and vice grip, of course). Note whether the hammers are to the outside or to the inside. Push the shaft out with your finger (THIS is where this job is SO MUCH easier than what it was on the TroyBilt. On it, the spacers were often so mashed up that they almost welded themselves to the shafts, necessitating driving the shafts through the assembly with another spare shaft or similar.) Collect the pieces. If hammers were to the outside, rotate them and place them to the inside this time. This will even out wear on the shafts. If youæ±*e down to the 4th side of the hammer, make sure the square side is facing out now. With only one corner rounded, I placed that end on the shaft with the rounded part to the back.
Rotate the reassembled shaft back to the top and put the pin back in, smooth side down. I don稚 think you have to overdo putting the pin back in. Just drive it in snug.
Replace hopper and its 4 bolts into the grommet nuts. On the bolt just above the top connection on the 3ph, place the locker nut on as soon as you can, because if you drive the nut through very far, you won稚 be able to get it on.
Rotate the little door and retighten that bolt and nut. Place belt cover back in place with its 4 bolts.
Replace discharge screen and flapper.
Ralph