tool box and box blade

[Anonymous Poster]

I just purchased a Bx2200 with mmm and 42" bush hog. I actually have 2 questions? First I made a tool box and mounted it above the turn signal on the right side on the "roll bar", but first thing I did was back into a pile of brush (with box blade) and dented in the tool box. Where are the boxes usually mounted on these sub compacts? 2nd question with my after market 42" box blade I cannot adjust the top "turnbuckle" any more "in/shorten" in order to dig down more than a inch or so in the soil? Does the box blades that are sold with the tractors have the top hitch set farther back to accomadate more adjustment? Am I making any sense?

 

[pennwalk]

I'm almost ready to admit that it doesn't matter where you mount the toolbox, if you use your tractor you will sooner or later dent it or knock it off. As you know there is a Chalkley cup and a Chalkley chainsaw. How about a Chalkley toolbox. You get one of those nice plastic toolboxes from Sears and glue some heavy duty magnets on the bottom. Then you can stick the toolbox to anything metal. Move it around till you find the perfect place. I was wondering how it would work to stick it on top of the hood. As an added advantage you can take the toolbox off the tractor when you are done for the day and store it somewhere secure. Let us know if you decide to run with this. This could be BIG./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Chris

 

[forestcreature]

i strap my plastic toolbox onto the fel upright with some rubber straps. [this is on a 4100 and is hung vertical facing the seat].
i am only carrying pins/bolts/and a few wrenches.
[it's for those pesky shear bolts....] i am still in the great chain debate.... i am getting closer to welding a couple of brackets onto the front guard and wrapping the chain around that. [chains and fel just seem to go together].

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Thanks for the input. Any ideas on how I can adjust the box blade at a steeper angle for better digging?

 

[fishman]

jph,

You can change the angle of the box blade by lengthening or shortening the toplink. I shorten my toplink and pin my ripper teeth in their lowest position when I really want to create some mayhem. I find my boxblade to be very versatile and useful.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Thats the problem, I have my toplink shortened as far as it will go and the teeth set to there lowest point and it still is not low enough. I can adjust the toplink out and push until it cant take it anymore, but going forward it won't angle enough. The toplink acts like it is too long.

 

[CVHoss]

jph,
Not sure I understand your question, but I'll take a stab at it anyway. If you're trying to get the ripper shanks of your BB lower, shortening or lengthening the top link will have very little effect on that. The shanks are simply too close to the pivot location (ball ends of lower links). Changing the length of the top link will change the angle of attack for the ripper teeth which may allow them to pull themselves further into the ground, but won't actually lower them much. If you're attempting to get the rear scraper blade of your BB to cut into the ground more aggressively, you need to lengthen the top link. Shortening the link will raise the rear of the BB, thus reducing it's cutting effectiveness. Lengthening the top link will get the rear of the BB lower than the sides thus allowing it to cut into the ground better.

Hoss

 

[Bob_Trevithick]

<font color=blue>...Thats the problem, I have my toplink shortened as far as it will go and the teeth set to there lowest point and it still is not low enough.</font color=blue>

I'm just a newbie, but I'll take a stab. Seems to me I have seen various length toplinks for sale at tractor supply houses. Maybe you just need to go find one that's a bit shorter?

 

[PaulT]

JPH,

You say that you can only <font color=blue>dig down... a inch or so in the soil</font color=blue>. Are you referring to the depth the front cutting blade will go, or are you referring to the depth of the rippers? If it is the rippers, there is something very wrong with the geometry of your setup. Even with my toplink fully extended, my rippers will stil engage a few inches of ground when they are at their lowest setting. If this is the case, maybe you have ripper shanks that are too short for the blade /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif.

If you are talking about the depth the cutting blade gets, that is a different story. My blade only engages about 1 inch in the full forward tilt position. It will cut deeper into the material as I drag it forward IF the soil/gravel is loose enough so the side plates can cut in as well. If this is dry, hard clay, my side plates will just skid along, preventing the cutting blade from fully engaging. That is when I use the ripper shanks first, with the cutting blade tipped BACKWARDS and out of the way, so that all force is directed to the ripper shanks. After this pass (or a few), I find that the side plates will cut in and the blade can really dig up the dirt in the full forward position. I hope this helps.

 

[Dooze]

I mounted a toolbox behind the seat on my BX18000 almost two years ago and have not had any problems or damages. I've attached a picture showing the box with the seat pushed all the way to the back position.