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  1. #11
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    259
    Location
    SF Bay
    Tractor
    Kubtoa B2620

    Default Re: Adjusting Three Point Hitch for new Box Blade

    Quote Originally Posted by Soundguy
    One thing.. to help prevent confusion in the future.. your lower links are called 3pt lower lift arms.
    soundguy
    I've been calling them "lower links" because that is what the kubota manual calls them. However, it appears that "lower lift arms" is what is more commonly used on TBN.

    Chris

  2. #12
    Bronze Member kvmapr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    57
    Location
    West Virginia
    Tractor
    Jinma 254

    Default Re: Adjusting Three Point Hitch for new Box Blade

    This weekend I made a tweak to the box blade that dramatically improved the bite I could get from the scraper blade. You'll note in the photo below the two metal bars that run from the back of the box blade up to the mount point where the top link attaches. Normally those bars would attach a couple inches below that point, where you can see the original silver bolt that held them in place.
    After thinking about it I decided to give it a shot, and the bars moved easily enough (took a little leverage of course).

    End result, you can see the dramatically increased height difference between front edge of the box and the back edge. And if that angle proves to be too severe, I can now reduce it by extending the length of the top link.

    Just an interesting lesson learned that I thought other newbies might be interested in.



    Thanks,
    KVMAPR
    Cave Mapper - Jinma 254, Koyker 160 FEL, 60" King Kutter II Tiller, 60" Rotary Mower, Box Blade, Home Built Scraper Blade, Middle Buster, Tilt Meter, Dearborn plow

  3. #13
    Super Member greg_g's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    5,984
    Location
    Western Kentucky
    Tractor
    JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket

    Default Re: Adjusting Three Point Hitch for new Box Blade

    Be prepared to deal with bent diagonals

    //greg//
    USN (Ret)
    Former Chinese tractor owner (x4)
    Current John Deere owner

  4. #14
    Super Member 3RRL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    6,807
    Location
    Foothills of the Giant Sequoia's, California
    Tractor
    55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284

    Default Re: Adjusting Three Point Hitch for new Box Blade

    KVMAPR,
    Good to see you got your boxblade sitting correctly so it will cut for you.
    Rob-
    ...The Older I get...the Better I Used to be...
    Member of the Month

  5. #15
    Veteran Member jake98's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    1,910
    Location
    Dingmans Ferry PA
    Tractor
    53 Cub, 70's JD 410, Kioti 25hst

    Default Re: Adjusting Three Point Hitch for new Box Blade

    Rob, wake me up when we get to the "training wheels" part of the thread, OK? Good Luck Kvmaper.
    Jake

  6. #16
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    709
    Location
    NE Oklahoma
    Tractor
    Kioti ck30

    Default Re: Adjusting Three Point Hitch for new Box Blade

    Quote Originally Posted by john_bud
    You want the front of the box to be 1.5" to 4" lower than the rear depending on soil, job etc. Normally it's in the 1.5" range for scraping.

    Measure your top link (from the lowest 3pt hole on the tractor side) to the box mount with the box tilted to that 4" angle. That will be your extreme shortest top link.

    If you are having a hard time getting one that short for some reason, you can buy some of Pat's Quick Hitches as seen on this site. That will move the 2 mounting arm points back about 3-4".

    jb
    I've not hardly used my boxblade. Am making some mental notes here.
    1.5" = scrap
    4" = dig with rippers?

    What about to smooth?
    ---

    NE Oklahoma, ck30 kioti BH w/thumb, Broken FEL, toothbar, box blade. JD 60" brush hog, home made forks

    My Photo's

  7. #17
    Veteran Member jbrumberg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    2,073
    Location
    Western MA
    Tractor
    New Holland TC29DA, John Deere 455D

    Default Re: Adjusting Three Point Hitch for new Box Blade

    rcrcomputing:

    Box blading well takes a lot of practice. To smooth I would raise the scarifiers and extend the top link cylinder length somewhat. Depending on the quality of "smooth" I might also raise the three point lower lift arms. I also agree with greg g about the possibility of bending the BB's diagonals. Be careful using the BB as a dozer blade. I tend to only use my BB that way when pushing snow and/or the material I am working with the BB. Jay
    NH TC29DA with 14LA and HD QA 60" bucket, weighted R-1's, FOPS, CCM M-160 (58") Tiller, Tebben MD 60" Rotary Cutter, Woods LR 108 (96") Landscape Rake, FEL cutting edge and tooth bar, Woods GB60 (60") Box Blade, Wallenstein BXM32

    1995 John Deere 455 Diesel with 48" mower, MC 519 Cart with PowerVac

  8. #18
    Super Member 3RRL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    6,807
    Location
    Foothills of the Giant Sequoia's, California
    Tractor
    55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284

    Default Re: Adjusting Three Point Hitch for new Box Blade

    Quote Originally Posted by rcrcomputing

    What about to smooth?
    Scarifiers up like Jay said.
    To smooth, what I do is make the boxblade sit on level ground so BOTH the front and rear blades touch the ground...but so as the rear blade touches slightly more than the front. I don't want to say place the boxblade level to the ground, (looking from the side) but more specifically the blades themselves ... in case the blades and the boxblade don't line up when level.

    In doing so, your front blade still cuts off any bumps and still fills any divots and the rear blade uses the rounded part to put a smooth finish on. If your surface is already how you want it, you want to tilt the box backwards so ONLY the rear blade is touching the ground. Now all it does is smooth out the surface without cutting anything.
    Rob-
    ...The Older I get...the Better I Used to be...
    Member of the Month

  9. #19
    Veteran Member canoetrpr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    2,376
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Tractor
    Kubota M7040 cab/hyd shuttle - current, Kubota L3400 - traded

    Default Re: Adjusting Three Point Hitch for new Box Blade

    Rob, I've been slowly learning how to use my box blade with the help of the many threads on this board.

    This last post of yours caught my interest because it describes something that I haven't been able to do yet... I think. When my top link is shorted, I have the scarifers ripping. With the top link lenghtened, the blade is scraping and I will fill the box in short order.

    Finding a setting that would allow me to smooth without filling the box per-se would be ideal now that my drive is cut nice and smooth.

    Are you suggesting that my top-link should be somewhere within short and long to achieve this nirvana? I imagine that my scarifers might still touch the ground if I had the top-link somehwere in between. Maybe I should just take them off?

    Would appreciate any more thoughts that might clarify this for me.
    Current: Kubota M7040 cab, hydraulic shuttle, Kubota M20 loader (made by ALO), LandPride RCR1872 rotary cutter, Horst bale spears & forks, Woods HB72 box blade, Kodiak 7' rake, Walco cultivator, chain harrow, Meteor 74" pull style blower

    Traded: Kubota L3400, LA473 HST (300 hrs), and various attachments

  10. #20
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    7
    Location
    cedar hill texas
    Tractor
    jinma 284

    Default Re: Adjusting Three Point Hitch for new Box Blade

    I bought a box blade for my Jinma 284 and cant get it to set level and wont go down to the ground enough.The middle turn buckle is adjusted all the way in.Also does the two left and right turn buckles should be adjusted even?

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