agford4x4 said:
This blade is hinged...if that makes any difference. Thanks for the link and pics!
One thing i don't understand is the SHORTENING to make the blade DIG better. The short i go, the higher the blade gets from the ground, so it seems if i wanted it to DIG, i would actually lengthen it, which is exactly what the manual says. However, several posts i have read seem to have it 'backwards'. Thats very confusing.
Ok, either print this off and look at the implement on the tractor imagine it.
There are 2 blades on the box. )( -> the arrow is the tractor direction.
The rear blade is apparently hinged (that's good). it faces backwards and is used when backing up. The adjustment for going backward is way different than for forward by the way.
The other blade is facing forward ( -> . you tilt the box so the rear blade is holding less of the box weight. Another way of saying that is that as you tilt the box forward, the front blade holds more of the box weight, so it diggs better. The sides of the box, being thin will cut into the ground, so you don't have to worry about that much.
If you can bolt the rear blade down, for smoothing you tilt the box the other way so the front blade is off the ground and the rear blade has all the weight.
For going backwards and digging with the rear blade, you level the box out. Dead level to back low 1" is pretty good. If you get more aggressive with the angle of attack (tilt), you will stab the ground and gouge it.
Do all your set ups with the tractor on known dead flat and level ground. Garage, driveway etc. Use a level. Measure the top link and the adjustable side link lengths so you can quickly restore level no matter if you are on a side hill or flat ground.