Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #991  
I have never used the hammer knives before, I have y blades on my flails, the 6 foot has heavy gauge, I think .265, my 7 foot has ( again ) I think .211, with the .265 I can go over a hedge or bush in 2 passes, ( makes a little noise ) they stay sharper longer when cutting grass than the .211, it might just be me, but the lighter .211's appear to leave a finer cut. jmo.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #992  
Nice job on the dolly, I need to do this to my 7 foot to make it easier to move around, weighs #1000, so I think I need to weld some angle and use bigger casters



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   / Let's talk flail mowers #993  
I have a Caroni TM1900 with the B rotor and heavy duty (1/4 inch forged) blades. It is not a true finish cut but much closer than what you can get with even a sharp bladed brush hog. It also handles brush easily up to 2 inches.

If you will be cutting brush other than pruning clippings I would stay away from a finish flail. The knives don't have the mass to deal with brush effectively and by doubling the number of knives you dissipate the energy that any one of them has to cut through tough material efficiently.

Caroni mowers are not really matched with any hammer I am aware of. I'd be careful about putting too much mass on the rotor if you are thinking of going that route. I wouldn't do it as the heavy duty forged knives require all the power you can reasonably deliver to this mower when in heavy brush. What use is a hammer if you don't have more power to bring to bear? The cup style knives would probably be fine but those are finish, not rough or heavy duty blades.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #994  
leonz

A couple of years ago when I was inquiring about the different blades for my flail mower, from Flail Masters, They asked me to send them one of the blades. I sent them one of my blades, and they said they could match it or make some just like it. Apparently they have the ability to make just about any blade. I asked for a sample of about 6 different blades/hammers, and they sent me 6 different blades.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #995  
Thanks Much J.J. I will dig one of the old ones out of the scrap bucket with the original dimensions for the OEM knives.

I wil get pictures of the hangers and knives when the wife shows me how to do it and send them here.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #996  
I will me mowing a wide rage of items with it. I have been mowing an old tralier park ( compleate with junk still in it) that is being slowley turned into a park, I have also mowed mantained fields, old fields(with trees regrowing etc) multi floral rose bushes, weeds, etc. I live in WV which is rarley with out some type of hill and rock etc. I am mowing along rivers, on top of mountians and everything in the middle. I have been doing all of this with 2 brush hogs. One I consider junk basicaly as It really does not mow well but I take it to jobs where if it breaks it is no big loss( ie hit a big stump, rock, mowing down small trees , Trash, etc). The other brush hog the side is removabe and I do mow hay with it. It does a pretty good job with a clean cut. I know that a flail will not totally do what I am doing with either but is rather a totally different beast. I know that for some jobs I will still be using the junk brush hog, Others the better one. What I hope to do is use the flail as a go between. It will be wider and I am hoping for a good cut quality. With that said though I dont know what type of rotor and blades or knifes I need. I will not really be cutting down trees with it but I will likely hit rocks, stumps trash etc with it. I would like it to give a high quality finish with one pass. ( not leave stubs sticking up etc, also I dont like having to remow espically when I am charging someone.) I want to be able to mow old fields( that are growing up with multi floral rose, small sapling, weeds etc and have a nice finish) I also want to be able to mow the park with it and leave a nice finish( no stubs etc). So what type of blades should I be looking at. I know that the hammer type cost more to replace but most do not have shackels. So if you take the cost of both the shackle and the knife and compair it to a single hammer I think it closes the gap some on cost. With all of that said would a B type rotor or the P type Rotor from Caroni be better for me? Also in looking at the picture of both the B and P rotor the mounts look the same( best i can tell in the picture). So if I ordered the P rotor type cold I also order the B blades and switch between the 2 for the best of both.( I do understand that it would be all the blades no mix and match) I don't mind spending a little more if it will work better for me. ( a few 100 not 1000) Lastly and maybe someone else can tell me I am assuming that the P rotor is a hammer type blade in the picture, If it is not and actually a scoop type how does that compair. Thanks for the input.

Link to where I got the picture Caroni S.p.a.
 

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   / Let's talk flail mowers #997  
I will me mowing a wide rage of items with it. I

have been mowing an old trailer park ( complete with junk still in it) that is

being slowly turned into a park, I have also mowed mantained fields, old fields

(with trees regrowing etc.) multi flora rose bushes, weeds, etc.


I live in WV which is rarely with out some type of hill and rock etc. I am

mowing along rivers, on top of mountians and everything in the middle.


I have been doing all of this with 2 brush hogs. One I consider junk as It really

does not mow well but I take it to jobs where if it breaks it is no big loss( ie hit

a big stump, rock, mowing down small trees, trash, etc.


On the other brush hog the side is removable and I do mow hay with it. It does

a pretty good job with a clean cut.


I know that a flail will not totally do what I am doing with either but

is rather a totally different beast.


I know that for some jobs I will still be using the junk brush hog, Others the

better one. What I hope to do is use the flail as a go between. It will be wider

and I am hoping for a good cut quality.


With that said though I dont know what type of rotor and blades or knifes I

need. I will not really be cutting down trees with it but I will likely hit rocks,

stumps, trash, etc. with it.


I would like it to give a high quality finish with one pass. ( not leave

stubs sticking up etc, also I dont like having to remow espically when I am

charging someone.


I want to be able to mow old fields that are growing up with multiflora rose,

small saplings, weeds, etc., and have a nice finish.


I also want to be able to mow the park with it and leave a nice finish no stubs

etc.


So what type of blades should I be looking at. I know that the hammer type

cost more to replace but most do not have shackels. So if you take the cost of

both the shackle and the knife and compare it to a single hammer I think it

closes the gap some on cost.


With all of that said would a B type rotor or the P type Rotor from Caroni be

better for me?


Also in looking at the picture of both the B and P rotor the mounts look the

same best I can tell in the picture.


So if I ordered the P rotor type could I also order the B blades and switch between

the 2 for the best of both. I do understand that it would be all the blades no

mix and match.


I don't mind spending a little more if it will work better for me-a few 100 not


1,000.


Lastly and maybe someone else can tell me I am assuming that the P rotor is a

hammer type blade in the picture, If it is not and actually a scoop type how

does that compair.




Thanks for the input.


This is the link to where I got the picture.

Caroni S.p.a.




A) That is a scoop/cup blade on the P rotor



B) about your junk situation: you can do what Iron horse does in Australia and

solves his impact damage issues quickly-My friend Iron horse mounts a

landscape rake in front of his tractor to catch anything and everything before it

is smacked with his flail mowers and this saves him huge amounts of work and

expense.


This will solve your issue the first time locating stumps and junk and then you

can bypass it after you pull it out of the way or go around it in the case of

stumps.


My friend Island tractor has the B rotor with 2 rows of knives and he has

wacked fence posts and a log and the rotor and mower have survived with

excellence.


About your hay you wont have useable hay unless you follow the mower with a

chopper to make silage using a flail mower.


If you mount a landscape rake in front of the tractor you can use a B or F rotor

mower with confidence and the abilty to find foreign objects before they find

the underbelly of your tractor causing damage to the engine or transmission or

hoses.


You need to look at the pictures that Island Tractor has on the site here showing

what he does with his "Caroni 2 row rotor mower with the 2 rows of grass

slicers, and Dr. Jays pictures of what he does in Florida on his property with

his "F Rotor" to decide which you would rather have.


When Island tractor encounters heavy scrub he backs over it slowly with his

flail mower and then drives forward and shreds its safely and eliminating the

possibilty of damaging his Kubota tractor.



The nice thing about the flailmower in general is the rear roller as it will aid you

in reducing or eliminating the possibility of damaging your mower.



You can mow in the highest mower setting and then go over it at a lower

setting again the next time you mow and the more you slice/shred everthing the

less opportunity there will be for anything bad or heavy brush to come back

forever.



Further:



If you mount a landscape rake wider than the wheel width of you tractor you

can use the A, B, or F rotor and knives with success and be assured the mower

and tractor will not be damaged.



After you have cleared everything to your satisfaction you can remove the rake

and use it normally for other jobs.


We want you succeed and buying a flailmower and a lanscape rake to protect

your tractor and mower by mounting it up front is the best way to do it .


If you buy a rake with or without rear wheels-if you do not have a loader to

mount it on- you can buy a front three point hitch for your tractor from


www.Buckeyetractorcompany.com



The other option is simply mow in reverse and then mow forward in

your questionable areas but the potential for damaging the rear roller is greater

which is why I recommend doing what Iron horse has done with his mowing

tractor in Australia as it has saved him much grief with his tractor and flail

mowers.


About Me:

The land I mow for my father is cleared and free of debris but very heavy in

brush and weed stalks.


I mow everyrthing with my finish mower flail mower and it takes longer with

heavy brush and scrub but it becomes carpet after I mow it every year.


leon
 
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   / Let's talk flail mowers #998  
As Leonz noted the P rotor is not for hammers but mounts the finish cut scoops. The B rotor and blades are the ones you want IMO. I'll post a few photos later of thick grass mixed with brush pre and post B rotor treatment.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #999  
Here are a few. More to follow
 

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   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,000  
Man that proves there are no sneaky snakes right there:thumbsup:
:drool:
 
 
 
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