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  1. #1041
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    Default Re: Let's talk flail mowers

    I posted in this thread some time ago about wanting to install hammers, with their parallel-to-the-ground cutting action, instead of the OEM knives on the Caroni TM1900, to hopefully get an even better, even more uniform cut height.

    Would it work to bend each Caroni knife so it's got a 90-deg bend in it instead of the ~45-deg bend they come with?

  2. #1042
    Veteran Member jimgerken's Avatar
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    Default Re: Let's talk flail mowers

    It would possibly break if bent. You'd want to anneal (soften) it first, then bend it hot and reharden. Or maybe it just has to be red hot and re-quenched. Its worth a try. I assume the Caroni has enough gaurding that the broken pcs would not clip you in the head???
    It makes me wonder why it wasn't made this way in the first place? Do you suppose it is because it would wear out badly, instead of gracefully wearing shorter and shorter. I dunno... Let us know what works though...

  3. #1043
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    Default Re: Let's talk flail mowers

    Good afternoon Beppington,

    The big reason for the single hole versus slot punch design for the knife hanger is cost as most other flail mowers have the d rings and clamps to hang the knives so they purchased an economical knive for their hanger assembly.

    The current weldments are set in a welding jig when the rotors are assembled and its quick to do.

    1. cut the weldments
    2. drill the weldments
    3 put them in the weldment jig on the rotor
    4. weld them on all four sides while in the welding jig
    5. balance the rotor
    6. paint


    Perhaps they will make a rotor with a shell hanger to allow slotted knives
    and spring knive hangers which would allow the knives to become horizontal in flight to take advantage of the aerodynamics of a tapered grass slicer which acts like an airplane wing which are what I have on my Lawn Genie.






    Refresh my memory is your dads flailmower equipped with
    an a, b, or f rotor?


    The problem is the knives metallurgy and if you heat the
    grass slicers it will weaken them.

    If you take the 45 degree angle off the knive the rear roller
    will have to be lowered to match the corresponding
    increase of actual cutting height in relation to the sod height
    and I dont think you want that really as it is much more likely
    to scalp.


    Maybe its time to take the knives of and sharpen
    them using a belt sander or a wet well knive
    grinder which is the preferred method.


    When the knives are right on you can slice a
    piece of paper with them. Thats why I like the
    wet well grinder from Wen.


    You should have a near flat cut if you travel slow
    enough or over lap your coverage slightly.

    Have you had the knives off previously to sharpen them?

    __________________________________________________ _________________
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  4. #1044
    Super Star Member IslandTractor's Avatar
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    Default

    I agree with Leonz, there seems more to lose than gain mucking with blade angles. Those I believe are forged blades so I'm not sure what would be involved. It would sure take a long time to bend 58 knives!

  5. #1045
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    Default Re: Let's talk flail mowers

    Quote Originally Posted by leonz View Post
    Refresh my memory is your dads flailmower equipped with an a, b, or f rotor?
    Not sure. It's whatever came with it when we picked it up at AgriSupply

    Quote Originally Posted by leonz View Post
    The problem is the knives metallurgy and if you heat the grass slicers it will weaken them.
    I thought that could be the case.

    Quote Originally Posted by leonz View Post
    If you take the 45 degree angle off the knive the rear roller will have to be lowered to match the corresponding increase of actual cutting height in relation to the sod height and I dont think you want that really as it is much more likely to scalp.
    That part is OK. Easy enough to adjust the skids up just a tad, enough to make up for the shorter knives.

    Quote Originally Posted by leonz View Post
    Maybe its time to take the knives of and sharpen them using a belt sander or a wet well knive grinder which is the preferred method.
    They aren't dull now. Even when the flail was brand new, while the cut is pretty darn good, it's just not quite the same as a finish mower. I hoped hammers, or bending the OEM knives would accomplish that.

    Quote Originally Posted by leonz View Post
    Have you had the knives off previously to sharpen them?
    Hasn't been needed so far; Cuts as good now as day 1 (just not quite as good as a finish mower)

    Oh, well, it was a thought anyway ...

  6. #1046
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    Default Re: Let's talk flail mowers

    I bet you have the B rotor with the hardened knives then.

    You might want to mow at right angles overlapping the
    other passes if you have time as this wil also shred more
    grass and brush.



    __________________________________________________ _____________________________________________
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    Last edited by leonz; 08-19-2011 at 09:07 PM. Reason: more material added

  7. #1047
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    Default Re: Let's talk flail mowers

    If anyone is shopping for a FORD 917:

    Wengers of Myerstown has one in mint condition
    by the looks of it behind a Ford 2 wheel drive tractor in their lot.

    I think the advert in Used Tractors For Sale at TractorHouse.com: John Deere Tractors, used farm tractors and farm equipment, tractors for sale, Case IH, New Holland, Agco, kubota said it was 7,000.00 for the pair!!

    __________________________________________________ _______________
    Once you go flail you never go back
    Last edited by leonz; 08-22-2011 at 12:24 PM.

  8. #1048
    Silver Member Brahmus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Let's talk flail mowers

    Are you spinning it fast enough? I thought I remember reading that the aerodynamics of the blade caused the 45s to flatten out when spun at the proper rpm? Or was I just wishfully thinking?
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  9. #1049
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    Default Re: Let's talk flail mowers

    Nope not wishfull thinking,


    The mounting weldments do not allow the knives to become horizontal as there is only enough clearance between the weldments to mount the grass slicers using the A, F, and B rotors and the grass slicers are punched with a round hole not a slotted one which would allow the knives to become horizontal in use from the high speed rotation of the flail mower rotor and centrifugal force.

    The current weldment positions would not allow a slotted grass slicer to be used due to the close lacing of the grass slicers on the flail mower rotors used on the A,F, and B flail mower rotors.


    The current rotor and weldment placings/lacings would not and could not allow adequate clearance allowing the knives to use the aerodynamics of the grass slicers ground edge to become horizontal in flight when mowing as the grass slicer knives are closer together.


    The rotor types offered are a compromise of sorts as the longer grass slicers allow a higher rotor height, a lower knive count and reduced number of knive rows.

    Shorter knives would allow more knive rows and better cut and greater knive counts but it becomes an issue of cost
    in production and offering a product for sale at a good price in the market place

    __________________________________________________ _______________
    Once you go flail you never go back
    Last edited by leonz; 08-22-2011 at 12:42 PM.

  10. #1050
    Gold Member 8404's Avatar
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    Default Re: Let's talk flail mowers

    I just put about 15 hours of use on my new flail mower, this flail cuts with the nifes spinning in the same dirrection as the tractor moves im not shure the bennifits of this but as comparision my side arm flail mower cuts in reverse to the dirrection of travel and seems to have a much larger amount of vacume pulling the grass up and out the back of the cutter. It seems that most of the grass clipping on this mower gets thrown against the larg roller and doesnt get tossed out the back like i thought it would, now this isnt a probblem it just not what i thought would happen,
    As far as performance goes this flail mower seems to load the tractor down just the same way as my 6 foot rotory cutter did it also bogs down in some areas of the feild just as the rotory cutter did so for me im still moweing at the same grownd speed as i did with the 6 foot rotory cutter. the main differance is that its cutting a wider path, it dosnt throw objects out the back not even grass clippings and when you do hit something like a rock its compleatly un-eventful. my 6 foot rotory mower has thrown wire and other metal objects into my rear tires and brocken out my windows, i cant see this ever happening with the flail.
    As of now im mowing feilds that i previously mowed with rotory cutters and it left rows of dead grass and it will be a while till all the piled up grass clipping have rotted away.
    the only thing i dont like is that it cant mow in reverse because the roller pushes the grass down out of the way of the cutter nives.
    oh ya i ran over a tire today and all it did was make some noise and then jump over the tire the rotory cutter would have scared the heck out of me and then sent the tire into the next county
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Let's talk flail mowers-100_2285-jpg  
    Last edited by 8404; 08-24-2011 at 12:22 AM.

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