Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[IslandTractor]

Since three-point arms have no down pressure and essentially float anyway, the only advantage I see of a chain type side-link is that the left and right arms become independent of one another. If the tractor is on one plane, the mower could be on another. If a tractor tire drops in a rut the mower will not be compelled to tilt to follow the tractor.

Our ground is flat, so we would see no improvement with the chain links. I set my mower height with the fixed top link and just drop the position control lever all the way down and mow.

That is also my understanding and practice.

Even if one rear tire goes into a hole or rut, the 3PT is still floating although most of the up pressure would be on one arm. As the 3PT arms on my tractor are rated to lift 3000lbs or so as a pair, I'm not too worried about one arm lifting a 700lb flail mower.

I still cannot envision how one would back up with a flail attached with chains instead of solid lower arms. I guess the flail would be pushed by topping lift and PTO and nothing would stabilize it from twisting. Not such a great move IMO as the twisting could cause a rear tire to ride up on the flail and it generally isn't a good idea to pull or push with the PTO. Maybe I am missing something here but I just don't understand the geometry/forces when reversing. I reverse all the time when mowing anything other than an open field so it is not an infrequent occurrence.

 

[jimmysisson]

The flail is only lifted with the chains: the lower arms are the same solid ones as normal. The chains replace the side links, see post 1737 (!). Mine has the optional rear gauge wheels, and they don't have room to swivel around fully like casters, so I can't back up with the mower down anyway. It's just something I got used to, and the tires take a bit of pressure off the roller.
Jim

 

[jimmysisson]

The flail is only lifted with the chains: the lower arms are the same solid ones as normal. The chains replace the side links, see post 1737 (!). Mine has the optional rear gauge wheels, and they don't have room to swivel around fully like casters, so I can't back up with the mower down anyway. It's just something I got used to, and the tires take a bit of pressure off the roller.
Jim

 

[IslandTractor]

The flail is only lifted with the chains: the lower arms are the same solid ones as normal. The chains replace the side links, see post 1737 (!). Mine has the optional rear gauge wheels, and they don't have room to swivel around fully like casters, so I can't back up with the mower down anyway. It's just something I got used to, and the tires take a bit of pressure off the roller.
Jim

Got it. Thanks for the clarification.

I'm still wondering how the solid ones got bent. That just doesn't seem like a vulnerable piece of kit given the fact that 3PTs float up as needed.

 

[carson84]

Hello! New member here with a question about an Alamo flail mower I recently purchased. I knew absolutely nothing about flail mowers prior to this and I'm still trying to figure out exactly what I have. I do know that it's an Alamo brand 7' flail with a rough cut shaft. I know it's a shd88 and it was previously a commercial unit (maybe road crew?). It's been sitting up a few years but is in decent shape with all components moving freely. It was missing one clevis so I purchased it and the blades from flail-master last week (awesome company). What I'm trying to figure out now is if I have a normal cutter or a reverse rotation cutter. I'm hoping someone can tell from these pics. Thanks

 

[JCByrd24]

Got it. Thanks for the clarification.

I'm still wondering how the solid ones got bent. That just doesn't seem like a vulnerable piece of kit given the fact that 3PTs float up as needed.

Bending the lift link was likely an anomaly, your understanding is correct that the float should allow the whole mower to move up, but perhaps there was another outside factor restricting things. Also the adjustable lift links are sometimes just a tube so it would be significantly weaker in compression (buckling).

As for the reason I use the side chain, one of my fields is very bumpy and I haven't had the chance to level it out yet. This allows the mower the go freely into the ruts and back over and not miss odd chunks of grass. It also evens out the pressure on the rear roller and its bearings.

I also drop the 3ph lever to float and the top link controls the height of the front of the mower. I don't have position control, so using the alternative of using the 3ph to control the front height (and perhaps a chain or floating lop link) would not be unrepeatable without check chains or something else to consistently set the 3ph height. The top link does a fine job of this and I can find adjust right from the seat. Also, my flail does not have a floating top link so that's another reason for me to run this setup.

I don't get any scalping from the skids unless the ground is majorly unevening, which is the result of the ground and not the mower set up. I did some quick analysis and concluded with either setup there is a chance to scalp. With top link setting the front height it can scalp when the tractor's front wheels go into a dip or start down a hill. With the 3ph arms setting the front height its when the tractor's front wheels go up a hill or bump, this lowers the 3ph arms and dips the front of the mower. Properly adjusted skids will avoid any scalping from the blades but the skids themselves might especially during turns.

 

[IslandTractor]

Bending the lift link was likely an anomaly, your understanding is correct that the float should allow the whole mower to move up, but perhaps there was another outside factor restricting things. Also the adjustable lift links are sometimes just a tube so it would be significantly weaker in compression (buckling).

As for the reason I use the side chain, one of my fields is very bumpy and I haven't had the chance to level it out yet. This allows the mower the go freely into the ruts and back over and not miss odd chunks of grass. It also evens out the pressure on the rear roller and its bearings.

I also drop the 3ph lever to float and the top link controls the height of the front of the mower. I don't have position control, so using the alternative of using the 3ph to control the front height (and perhaps a chain or floating lop link) would not be unrepeatable without check chains or something else to consistently set the 3ph height. The top link does a fine job of this and I can find adjust right from the seat. Also, my flail does not have a floating top link so that's another reason for me to run this setup.

I don't get any scalping from the skids unless the ground is majorly unevening, which is the result of the ground and not the mower set up. I did some quick analysis and concluded with either setup there is a chance to scalp. With top link setting the front height it can scalp when the tractor's front wheels go into a dip or start down a hill. With the 3ph arms setting the front height its when the tractor's front wheels go up a hill or bump, this lowers the 3ph arms and dips the front of the mower. Properly adjusted skids will avoid any scalping from the blades but the skids themselves might especially during turns.

I used supplemental chains on a bush hog that I had trouble with scalping on turns but I've never had the sorts of issues you describe with the flail. I have my skids as high as they will go to keep them out of the way and use the hydraulic top link to keep the front end of the flail slightly elevated above the rear then I just drop the 3PT so the controlling height is set and maintained by the rear roller. Occasionally I will mow in very thick grass with the roller off the ground but that is the exception.

I just haven't had problems with scalping so the skids are just in the way and are themselves a bigger risk for gouging or scalping on turns. I've considered taking them off as I park the mower on grass so don't need to worry about damaging anything when the mower is dismounted. However, as noted, I just don't seem to have significant scalping or gouging issues with the current configuration so I just leave it alone.

I understand how your chain system evolved but I guess my point is that most folks don't need to bother with it. I don't doubt it works with the flail but imagine it must be a bit of a bother to switch out with solid arms every time you mount a different implement like box blade or rake etc.

 

[Xfaxman]

I don't know why my phone posted twice. Sorry. Can an admin please delete one? Thanks

It wasn't your phone, it just happens sometimes.

You can delete the second post yourself, click Edit Post. Then click Go Advanced. Click Delete this post in the following manner: and click the Delete Post box at the right.

 

[IslandTractor]

Hello! New member here with a question about an Alamo flail mower I recently purchased. I knew absolutely nothing about flail mowers prior to this and I'm still trying to figure out exactly what I have. I do know that it's an Alamo brand 7' flail with a rough cut shaft. I know it's a shd88 and it was previously a commercial unit (maybe road crew?). It's been sitting up a few years but is in decent shape with all components moving freely. It was missing one clevis so I purchased it and the blades from flail-master last week (awesome company). What I'm trying to figure out now is if I have a normal cutter or a reverse rotation cutter. I'm hoping someone can tell from these pics. ThanksView attachment 392286
View attachment 392287View attachment 392288

Easiest way to tell is to simply raise the mower while running at low idle and (carefully) look. Another way is to check the blades. What side are the nicks/gouges on? That is the leading edge and will tell you the direction of rotation.

 

[IslandTractor]

Hello! New member here with a question about an Alamo flail mower I recently purchased. I knew absolutely nothing about flail mowers prior to this and I'm still trying to figure out exactly what I have. I do know that it's an Alamo brand 7' flail with a rough cut shaft. I know it's a shd88 and it was previously a commercial unit (maybe road crew?). It's been sitting up a few years but is in decent shape with all components moving freely. It was missing one clevis so I purchased it and the blades from flail-master last week (awesome company). What I'm trying to figure out now is if I have a normal cutter or a reverse rotation cutter. I'm hoping someone can tell from these pics. ThanksView attachment 392286
View attachment 392287View attachment 392288

Easiest way to tell is to simply raise the mower while running at low idle and (carefully) look. Another way is to check the blades. What side are the nicks/gouges on? That is the leading edge and will tell you the direction of rotation.

Mower looks to be in good condition. Surprised there seems to be only a single belt running a 7ft mower though. My six foot Caroni has three and still manages to slip/burn up belts every once in a while.