2 bottom plow

   / 2 bottom plow #1  

drz400

Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2005
Messages
47
Location
Upstate New York
Tractor
'05 JD 3320
I have been playing around with my Ferguson AO 2-12 the last few days. I am by far NO plow expert but I have some questions about set-up.The plow is from the fifties,for a 8n style tractor and I have a new compact tractor. When the plow is positioned 10-12 inches to the left of the right rear tire and you begin to plow,should the offset cross bar( this is what the bottom links are hooked to)Be tracking directly straight behind the tractor? Or do you look at the top link, which is angled to the left side . You can't get both ( bottom links and top links) to be staight all together. Depending where the plow is positioned on the offsef cross bar, the top link is going to be from the center of the tractor angling to the plow. Do this sound right???

I know the old plows are not made for the new compact tractors.Wheel spacing is alot narrower and is not adjustable.I'm trying to get it closest to the text book set-up.
 
   / 2 bottom plow #2  
   / 2 bottom plow #3  
Plow manuals are not very much use when a plow is mounted on a tractor not designed with plows in mind. What info you'll find in a manual is based upon the premise that the TRACTOR is (or can be) adjusted correctly to accomodate a plow. In MOST cases, compacts aren't the ideal plowing rig. You have to compromise. Since plowing has essentially been made obsolete in general farming use, tractors, especially smaller tractors of today aren't designed with plowing as a real consideration.

Here's how a plow SHOULD be set, and the tractor SHOULD be set;

First, you need to establish the DRAFT LINE of the plow. That is typically 4" LEFT of center of it's cutting width. (ie 2X14" cuts 28" wide. 4" left of center would be 18" measured from the extreme right of it's cutting width, towards the left. Establish that point and the top link mast SHOULD be 90 degrees above that point WHEN THE PLOW IS LEVEL. Level with the right wheel in the furrow. The top link SHOULD be straight in line with the centerline of the tractor. (top link straight back from tractor) With those points established, the draft arms SHOULD BE positioned equal distances from centerline. That SHOULD be accomplished by moving the drawbar left or right in it's adjustment on the plow. Then, with a DRAFT LINE that's 18" from the right, you SHOULD set the right rear track width to a point where the inside of the sidewall is 18" (to 20") from the center of the tractor. (center of tractor to inside of right rear sidewall. I always measure from the fixed drawbar OR the pto shaft)

Now, since MANY compacts won't readily accomodate a track width like that, OR, with tires substancially wider that the width of the lead plow bottom, you have to play with those measurements to get as close as is practical. You have several adjustments. Don't use any ONE to make up the difference. Spread the variations out amongst all the adjustments to get "close enough". If the track width won't spread wide enough, you'll have to set the plow slightly to the left to clear the inside of the rear wheel. The top link can trail slightly to the left. Set the drawbar of the plow left or right to center the draft arms as much as is possible.

If you variate far from "ideal settings" and the plows DRAFT LINE is more than a few inches to the left of center, the tractor will be forced to manhandle the plow rather than allowing it to glide through the soil. A PROPERLY adjusted plow creates minimal resistance compared to one where great compromises are made. With a plow sitting far to the left or right of a centered draft line, the tractor will tend to steer to the opposite direction rather than in a straight line.

Also, make certain the plow (via top link length) is LEVEL front to rear when in the ground at operating depth. Even the slightest NOSE DOWN ATTITUDE makes a plow pull like a boat anchor. A plow with good shares will get to operating depth relatively quickly without "diving" with the plow leveled.
 
   / 2 bottom plow #4  
I just pulled out a two bottom plow that a bought from a guy a few years ago, it turns out to be a ferguson don't know what model. I just need to weld a little bit on the back wheel and grease what I can and it should be ready to go. My ford 4000 has adjustable wheels so I can adjust that to get the wheel in the furrow. Hopefully it will be that easy, it'll be my first time setting up and plowing also. We'll see how it goes. Good luck. Another queston, after my first round will I have to adjust something to accomadate the tractor not being level with the one side in the furrow?
 
   / 2 bottom plow #5  
funny farmer said:
I just pulled out a two bottom plow that a bought from a guy a few years ago, it turns out to be a ferguson don't know what model. I just need to weld a little bit on the back wheel and grease what I can and it should be ready to go. My ford 4000 has adjustable wheels so I can adjust that to get the wheel in the furrow. Hopefully it will be that easy, it'll be my first time setting up and plowing also. We'll see how it goes. Good luck. Another queston, after my first round will I have to adjust something to accomadate the tractor not being level with the one side in the furrow?

Your plow should have an offset drawbar that makes the plow sit level when the right wheel is in the furrow. It on the FIRST pass where you need to make the adjustment if you want it sitting level. Do so with the leveling crank on the 3-point hitch. On an opening pass, it isn't a matter of life or death if you DON'T level the plow.
 
   / 2 bottom plow #6  
thanks for the advise, I looked and the modle type is a 14A that must mean 14 inch that was made in canada :)
 
 
 
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