Box Blading takes practice. I am still learning, but I am getting better and better at it. I agree with wushaw. Jay :)Quote:
Originally Posted by wushaw
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Box Blading takes practice. I am still learning, but I am getting better and better at it. I agree with wushaw. Jay :)Quote:
Originally Posted by wushaw
Brilliant explanation Rob!
I too just got my box blade 2 days ago. Thanks for these great tips and explanations. They really help. It is just like welding.....practice, practice, oops that left a big mark....practice.
Gentlemen:
I cannot tell you how much I appreciate the time you've taken to write. Rob, that's an awesome writeup and I will study it few times before going at it again.
I really like the idea of using it as a dozer. I found that I too was successful with this.
One more question, how do you guys go about compacting the surface? Do you just drive over it?
In other news, I just bought a used stick welder. Never welded a thing in my life! Just setting up my shop for it now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiddynights
Look in your L3400 manual and it will describe the float position for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by canoetrpr
canoetrpr,
There is one difference between some boxblades worth mentioning here and that is whether or not the rear facing blade is solid or hinged. This feature makes a large difference in how they respond in both directions. It looks like most of the thread responses so far are for the solid, more common type so if yours is hinged, you might post that fact as well.
One thing that helps me is to avoid the temptation to jump in and try to level the ground with one pass.
Instead, I try to knock down all the highest points first and, if practical, move the high point dirt to the lowest areas. Then go back and do the new high areas and fill the new low areas. And so on until the ground is pretty flat overall. Otherwise, as the front wheels go up and down on a rough drive, the boxblade is going down and up in response, alternatively leaving gouges and dirt piles not necessarily where you want them. Then on the next pass, it gets worse, and so on. Once you get the whole drive reasonably level, its easier to do the final grade.
Also, the two compact tractors I've owned had a hydraulic valve under the seat that adjusts how responsive the 3 PH raises and lowers. If yours has one you might check to see if setting it faster helps.
John
One more question, how do you guys go about compacting the surface? Do you just drive over it?
Yes, that's what I do. I try to spread lifts of 2" or 3" ..maybe 4" max, then wet it down (when I can) and drive over every square inch with the tractor or truck. I say wetting it down is for the very best results, but some areas where I don't have water I do without. After that I go over it dragging the box blade to smooth it before applying the next lift of material and repeat the compacting. I did my entire homesite project that way and the contractor was very pleased with the results when he tested it.
BTW, I appreciate your comments guys, especially Jay's (guru hahaha), but you guys know that everything I know and do with the boxblade I learned right here just like you guys. It just happened to be the only blade I had so I made do with it. What a great site TBN is! Without it, I wouldn't know how to hook one up!:)
Also, good luck with your welder canoe, it is a lot of fun and pretty easy to get the "hang" of it. And you will make about a million projects with it, I'm sure.
Did someone say drink a beer?:pQuote:
Originally Posted by wushaw
jmc, my rear blade on the box blade is in fact hinged.
Just wondering how this should change the operation.