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  1. #11
    Veteran Member jbrumberg's Avatar
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    Jan 2006
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    2,073
    Location
    Western MA
    Tractor
    New Holland TC29DA, John Deere 455D

    Default Re: Beginners guide to using a box blade

    Quote Originally Posted by wushaw
    Rob pretty much explained it better than I could.

    Keep at it and be patient, drink a beer and set back and look at what you want to achieve.
    Box Blading takes practice. I am still learning, but I am getting better and better at it. I agree with wushaw. Jay
    NH TC29DA with 14LA and HD QA 60" bucket, weighted R-1's, FOPS, CCM M-160 (58") Tiller, Tebben MD 60" Rotary Cutter, Woods LR 108 (96") Landscape Rake, FEL cutting edge and tooth bar, Woods GB60 (60") Box Blade, Wallenstein BXM32

    1995 John Deere 455 Diesel with 48" mower, MC 519 Cart with PowerVac

  2. #12
    New Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    19
    Location
    Atherton Tablelands, Australia
    Tractor
    Jinma 284LE (2006)

    Default Re: Beginners guide to using a box blade

    Brilliant explanation Rob!

  3. #13
    New Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    7

    Default Re: Beginners guide to using a box blade

    I too just got my box blade 2 days ago. Thanks for these great tips and explanations. They really help. It is just like welding.....practice, practice, oops that left a big mark....practice.

  4. #14
    Veteran Member canoetrpr's Avatar
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    Aug 2005
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    2,376
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Tractor
    Kubota M7040 cab/hyd shuttle - current, Kubota L3400 - traded

    Default Re: Beginners guide to using a box blade

    Gentlemen:

    I cannot tell you how much I appreciate the time you've taken to write. Rob, that's an awesome writeup and I will study it few times before going at it again.

    I really like the idea of using it as a dozer. I found that I too was successful with this.

    One more question, how do you guys go about compacting the surface? Do you just drive over it?
    Current: Kubota M7040 cab, hydraulic shuttle, Kubota M20 loader (made by ALO), LandPride RCR1872 rotary cutter, Horst bale spears & forks, Woods HB72 box blade, Kodiak 7' rake, Walco cultivator, chain harrow, Meteor 74" pull style blower

    Traded: Kubota L3400, LA473 HST (300 hrs), and various attachments

  5. #15
    Veteran Member canoetrpr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    2,376
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Tractor
    Kubota M7040 cab/hyd shuttle - current, Kubota L3400 - traded

    Default Re: Beginners guide to using a box blade

    Quote Originally Posted by Fiddynights
    I too just got my box blade 2 days ago. Thanks for these great tips and explanations. They really help. It is just like welding.....practice, practice, oops that left a big mark....practice.
    In other news, I just bought a used stick welder. Never welded a thing in my life! Just setting up my shop for it now.
    Current: Kubota M7040 cab, hydraulic shuttle, Kubota M20 loader (made by ALO), LandPride RCR1872 rotary cutter, Horst bale spears & forks, Woods HB72 box blade, Kodiak 7' rake, Walco cultivator, chain harrow, Meteor 74" pull style blower

    Traded: Kubota L3400, LA473 HST (300 hrs), and various attachments

  6. #16
    Gold Member daBear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    468
    Location
    Brandon, MS
    Tractor
    Kubota L2800

    Default Re: Beginners guide to using a box blade

    Quote Originally Posted by canoetrpr
    Wait a second! Did you say the 3PT has a float position? I had no idea about this. Our tractors are virtually identical.

    If I put the 3pt all the way down you say it will float? Hard to believe I've missed this as the float is pretty obvious on the loader valve, but I'm going to have to give this a shot.
    Look in your L3400 manual and it will describe the float position for you.

  7. #17
    jmc
    jmc is online now
    Veteran Member
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    Jul 2003
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    1,394
    Location
    SW Indiana
    Tractor
    Ford 1920 4x4 (traded in on Kubota). Case 480F TLB w/4 in 1 bucket, 4x4. Gehl CTL60 tracked loader, Kubota L4330 GST

    Default Re: Beginners guide to using a box blade

    canoetrpr,

    There is one difference between some boxblades worth mentioning here and that is whether or not the rear facing blade is solid or hinged. This feature makes a large difference in how they respond in both directions. It looks like most of the thread responses so far are for the solid, more common type so if yours is hinged, you might post that fact as well.

    One thing that helps me is to avoid the temptation to jump in and try to level the ground with one pass.
    Instead, I try to knock down all the highest points first and, if practical, move the high point dirt to the lowest areas. Then go back and do the new high areas and fill the new low areas. And so on until the ground is pretty flat overall. Otherwise, as the front wheels go up and down on a rough drive, the boxblade is going down and up in response, alternatively leaving gouges and dirt piles not necessarily where you want them. Then on the next pass, it gets worse, and so on. Once you get the whole drive reasonably level, its easier to do the final grade.

    Also, the two compact tractors I've owned had a hydraulic valve under the seat that adjusts how responsive the 3 PH raises and lowers. If yours has one you might check to see if setting it faster helps.


    John

  8. #18
    Super Member 3RRL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    6,807
    Location
    Foothills of the Giant Sequoia's, California
    Tractor
    55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284

    Default Re: Beginners guide to using a box blade

    One more question, how do you guys go about compacting the surface? Do you just drive over it?
    Yes, that's what I do. I try to spread lifts of 2" or 3" ..maybe 4" max, then wet it down (when I can) and drive over every square inch with the tractor or truck. I say wetting it down is for the very best results, but some areas where I don't have water I do without. After that I go over it dragging the box blade to smooth it before applying the next lift of material and repeat the compacting. I did my entire homesite project that way and the contractor was very pleased with the results when he tested it.
    BTW, I appreciate your comments guys, especially Jay's (guru hahaha), but you guys know that everything I know and do with the boxblade I learned right here just like you guys. It just happened to be the only blade I had so I made do with it. What a great site TBN is! Without it, I wouldn't know how to hook one up!

    Also, good luck with your welder canoe, it is a lot of fun and pretty easy to get the "hang" of it. And you will make about a million projects with it, I'm sure.
    Rob-
    ...The Older I get...the Better I Used to be...
    Member of the Month

  9. #19
    Gold Member Texas Dodge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    271
    Location
    Nursery, Texas
    Tractor
    Kubota L3400 4WD

    Default Re: Beginners guide to using a box blade

    Quote Originally Posted by wushaw
    Keep at it and be patient, drink a beer and set back and look at what you want to achieve.
    Did someone say drink a beer?
    Brian

    2007 Kubota L3400 4WD 4L/4H/4R
    Implements: Ansung 2540 Front End Loader, Continental 5' Bronco Cutter, 6ft. Armstrong Ag Box Blade, 3-PT Quick Hitch

  10. #20
    Veteran Member canoetrpr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    2,376
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Tractor
    Kubota M7040 cab/hyd shuttle - current, Kubota L3400 - traded

    Default Re: Beginners guide to using a box blade

    jmc, my rear blade on the box blade is in fact hinged.

    Just wondering how this should change the operation.
    Current: Kubota M7040 cab, hydraulic shuttle, Kubota M20 loader (made by ALO), LandPride RCR1872 rotary cutter, Horst bale spears & forks, Woods HB72 box blade, Kodiak 7' rake, Walco cultivator, chain harrow, Meteor 74" pull style blower

    Traded: Kubota L3400, LA473 HST (300 hrs), and various attachments

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