what gizmo do I need for digging ditch

[WarrenF]

Buy a ditcher....might be too expensive.....or you can purchase a large shovel for your middlebuster. You are not limited to the size of shovel that came with the purchase of your middlebuster.

[JoeL4330]

seems like a first order of business is to crown the road, boxblade or rear grader blade. There are more ditching options if you can straddle the ditch, but I can't so a rear blade with considerable offset is what I need. Just bought a landpride w. 30" offset and wider than my rear (wide turf) tires. But, I have a somewhat bigger tractor than you

[jaybrad]

Originally Posted by Dyer, retired

I'm anxious to see what other TBN'ers have to say about this, because I'm trying to find some cheap way to to work on some stumps...without spending $6,000 for a backhoe. Good luck. Dyer, retired

Two thoughts:

1) Call one of the local rental places who will rent you an excavator over the weekend for ~$400 (including delivery and pickup), or

2) Be nice to one of your neighbors who may already have (or be getting) a backhoe.

The first will cost you a few bucks, but you can have the satisfaction of doing the work the way you want it done and on your own schedule.

If you decide to go with the second option, you will have to learn how to brew a decent cup of coffee, which may take more time than going the rental route.

You're welcome.

Jay

[dangerdoc]

Originally Posted by RussMan

I have a small tractor (30 HP Kubota). I also have a rather steep driveway, and I want to carve a small ditch alongside the driveway to minimize water running across it. I am thinking the ditch needs to be only about 4-6" deep but maybe 12-16" wide or perhaps it doesn't need to be that wide.

The question is what type of 3 point gizmo would I need to use on my tractor to help with this. I don't think I would have much success with my FEL given the driveway is fairly hard. I do have a blade, but not sure I can tilt it enough to carve out a ditch. It seems some sort of small ripper would work but I don't know if they make such a gadget. Any ideas?

I used to have a backhoe which was really the best tool for digging my ditches. You want a flat bottom on the ditch where grass can grow and stabilize the dirt.

Living without the backhoe, I've found that building up the road is easier than cutting a ditch. Use a blade to remove a few inches of material from the ditch if practical then get about 4 inches of rock dumped on that part of the road. Should work out OK.

[djradz]

All you need is your existing rear blade. Angle it as far as it will go (or maybe even farther, past the last pin hole) and also adjust the tilt on your 3-pt so that the leading edge is as low as you can get it. Most likely if your adjustment is on the left side, you'll lower it to it limit and also turn the blade so the left side of the blade it right up to the rear of the rear tire. Make sure it doesn't hit when all the up or all the way down. You may need some minor adjustment of the top link to fine tune the tilt of the blade. What you should end up with is sort of a "plow", except with out the ability to turn the soil over. Then make a pass, either putting the spoils onto the drive or off to the side, depending on how suitable they are for driving base. After that, each pass you make, with the tires dropped into what you have already dug, will set you just that much deeper. You will quickly get to the point where you are leaning to a point where you don't want to go any further.

One nice thing with this method (besides using what you already have) is that the spoils are deposited well our of the hole. Not ideal if you were digging for drain tile or looking for a narrow trench, but if you want a ditch for drainage, almost ideal.

[Ford850]

Originally Posted by djradz

All you need is your existing rear blade. Angle it as far as it will go (or maybe even farther, past the last pin hole) and also adjust the tilt on your 3-pt so that the leading edge is as low as you can get it. Most likely if your adjustment is on the left side, you'll lower it to it limit and also turn the blade so the left side of the blade it right up to the rear of the rear tire. Make sure it doesn't hit when all the up or all the way down. You may need some minor adjustment of the top link to fine tune the tilt of the blade. What you should end up with is sort of a "plow", except with out the ability to turn the soil over. Then make a pass, either putting the spoils onto the drive or off to the side, depending on how suitable they are for driving base. After that, each pass you make, with the tires dropped into what you have already dug, will set you just that much deeper. You will quickly get to the point where you are leaning to a point where you don't want to go any further.

One nice thing with this method (besides using what you already have) is that the spoils are deposited well our of the hole. Not ideal if you were digging for drain tile or looking for a narrow trench, but if you want a ditch for drainage, almost ideal.

djradz beat me to it. The angled rear blade does the trick. I have done is to form a ditch and also a long swale along a drive to catch water running off from a field. If you have the room, the swale works perfect making the sides and bottom wide and gentle so you can mow it. But back to the blade, by angling it, the leading edge will really dive in and make a clean cut. Once you open the ground with the first cut, each pass gets easier.

[djradz]

Ooops, I said left side, but I must have been turned around. My adjustment is on the right side, so I usually drop the right side and angle the blade to dig on the right and push to the left.