To 3PT or to subframe, just the facts.

[Bedlam]

On the older woods its a diagonal brace that goes between the two lower lift arm pins and braces up to the top link. this keeps it from being able to move up or downward.Its job is to keep it from moving up and down like a 'normal' implement would do.

 

[Willl]

older woods

Hey, who ya calling "old" ?, j/k.
But, ya, it's a Woods, about 2.5 yrs old. Frame is exactly like you described.

How are others set up ?

 

[Willl]

Correction, it's a Bradco. But same diff.

 

[Opti-Mist]

I've been on at least two sides on this issue. First, from a structural perspective, I'd prefer to see subframes. Second, as a 10-year owner/user of a 3-point mounted backhoe, I'm O.K. with me running it. There are some users who just shouldn't have a 3-point installation and others who will do just fine. Ultimately, it's up to the user to not be an abuser.

 

[Cyberroc]

Running the motor to PTO speeds, I find the controls a bit "touchy" shall we say... On several occasions I would catch a tooth on a hidden/buried rock and not be able to get the hoe to progress. It sure seemed like it was the PTO was into some sort of hydraulic by-pass or something.

Controls feeling touchy is due to the speed you were running it at. I don't know your tractor range well enough, however on mine, I will run around 1600 rpm for most, and if needed I will run higher or lower depending on what I am digging in.

The easy way to start off is find a lower rpm range that will allow you to still dig without bogging the tractor down. The lower rpm will also smooth out your movement. I must have thousands of hours on a number of different backhoes, however I just purchased my tractor and not having been on one for a few years I started even lower. You will notice (as I am sure you started too after a few hours) that your movements start to improve. I have just under 10 hours on my new BH and still getting back to full swing.

Hitting a Rock... Depending on size or how buried it is, this does not sound abnormal, and hitting streight down on even a smaller, say 8", rock will do that as well. Just because you can lift it, does not mean you can split it or push it into the ground.

Trust your feelings though, if you think there is something wrong, I would have it checked. If you can get some video, post it, and someone should have an idea...

Nice rig!

 

[skipro3]

Correction, it's a Bradco. But same diff.

Thanks for the photo! Nothing says it quite like a photo. Yes, I have that type of bracing. You guys are all great to help me out. I can't say it enough; THANKS!!

 

[Lasgambler]

My BH is a 3pt. With hoe attached the tractor weighs about 7000#. When I would work the tractor digging it felt like the hoe was "all over the place". The tractor weighs so much, when I put the stabilizers down it felt like it was going to break something.

I made a subframe that attaches to the Fel frame in the front, and to the bottom of the ROPS mount under the rear axel, from there straight on out to the bottom of the hoe. This gives me a 4 pt hook up under the tractor and I still use the 3 pt hookup on the rear.

Now when I road the tractor I get no movement. When I lower the stabilizers I can pick up the rear of the tractor. For me it feels so much more secure I would be afraid to use it without the sub-frame.

 

[irwin]

I bought a 3 pt hoe, hooked it up according to the sparse instructions and used it for 1/2 hour.
Perhaps I didn't give it a chance, but just didn't like the idea of the stress points and what would happen if I worked it too hard. I felt the movement side to side without comfort. My mind and reason told me if I mounted it solidly to the the front loader mounts and the rear axle mount it would be more like a true backhoe, and so it was.
I made a subframe and enjoyed the peace of mind as I pried at roots and rocks without concern. The tractor bounced around as I sawed at stubborn roots. I filled the loader bucket with large rocks to add weight to help stabilize the tractor as I tried to free stumps from the ground, and felt no unease.

I know many here own 3pt backhoes and use them with no concern, perhaps rightly so.

All I can speak of is my experience. I owned a 3pt hoe but felt what I wanted was a solid mounted tool to work rocky ground, so I welded up something that did not used the top link or the bottom links, but secured the hoe while increasing the framing of the entire tractor, thankfully I succeded.

If I was to dig in friendly dirt, (not connecticut) a 3pt hoe might be fine.

disclaimer: I didn't own a tractor/3pt hoe combo made to work together, maybe there would be a difference. Regardless of all this, I wish you well and hope your tractor-hoe combo does everything you need it to.

Good luck................

 

[john_bud]

Now just a little bragging... The only 100 I ever got on a final was in Statics, that was 35 years ago so I'm sure I'm a little rusty, but by now I've seen many designs that work and also others that don't. Just remember that just because your's didn't break, doesn't mean that 10 others didn't.

Andy

But the backhoe is moving, how'd you do in "dynamics"?



The original poster asked about actual failures. There have been a few documented here with pictures of the damage. It's not a theoretical debate.

 

[irwin]

The original poster asked about actual failures. There have been a few documented here with pictures of the damage. It's not a theoretical debate.

I found this, but not sure of the story behind the damage. Top link ripped out pretty serious....