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  1. #21
    Veteran Member wedge40's Avatar
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    Default Re: Blade sharpening questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Bird View Post
    OK, but why do you need to dress the edge with a file?
    Because he doesn't have any flap sanders.

    I'm no expert, but from my understanding you shouldn't get the edge hot when finishing it. A regular grinding stone will work as long as it's done right. Flap sander take a little more to get the metal to blueish point you're trying to avoid.
    Hence a tougher edge. Right

    Wedge
    1967 Ford 4000, Box blade, straight blade, FEL, Rake, Bushhog, Backhoe, Jinma chipper, KKII tiller, Grapple.

  2. #22
    Epic Contributor Bird's Avatar
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    Default Re: Blade sharpening questions

    I agree, Wedge. You don't want to overheat the edge, and of course the sharper (thinnner) it is, the easier to overheat it. But, as you said, that can be done with grindstone if you're careful. I just wondered if there was a reason to use a file that I didn't know about. As a matter of fact, I don't even have a file anymore; used to have several. But I do have a 6" bench grinder and an angle die grinder. And of course, an EZE LAP Diamond Stone for knife blades.
    Bird

  3. #23
    Silver Member
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    Jun 2006
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    175

    Default Re: Blade sharpening questions

    I agree with Timber. For the best sharpening I remove the blades and clamp them in a vise then use a flat file that is sharp. It really does not take very long and I have found you can get a much more consistent edge. By the way, I have used bench grinders, die grinders, and hand held grinders. If the blade is in bad shape I use a grinder but then follow up with a file.

  4. #24
    Epic Contributor Bird's Avatar
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    Default Re: Blade sharpening questions

    I grew up in the days when I had to use a file on the garden hoe, yo-yo (weed knife), axe, hatchet, etc. because we didn't have any alternative. So now I don't use those manual things if I can find an easier way. But yep, the old fashioned files do a good job.
    Bird

  5. #25
    Gold Member johnnylight's Avatar
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    Aug 2005
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    452
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    upstate, New York
    Tractor
    TC34DA

    Default Re: Blade sharpening questions

    John - TC34DA 757C backhoe/FEL/rake/QA fork/rdm/toothbar/subsoiler

  6. #26
    Gold Member johnnylight's Avatar
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    Aug 2005
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    452
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    upstate, New York
    Tractor
    TC34DA

    Default Re: Blade sharpening questions

    any one have this: Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

    this one looks better:

    item ITEM 33867-1VGA
    Last edited by johnnylight; 09-14-2008 at 10:31 AM. Reason: wrong item #
    John - TC34DA 757C backhoe/FEL/rake/QA fork/rdm/toothbar/subsoiler

  7. #27
    Epic Contributor Bird's Avatar
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    Mar 2000
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    Texas

    Default Re: Blade sharpening questions

    Your second link didn't work for me, but I'm guessing you meant:
    Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

    Yep, you're still editing, while I was replying,LOL
    Bird

  8. #28
    Gold Member johnnylight's Avatar
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    Aug 2005
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    452
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    upstate, New York
    Tractor
    TC34DA

    Default Re: Blade sharpening questions

    Bird,

    sorry about that.

    So what do you think is there something better in this price range?
    John - TC34DA 757C backhoe/FEL/rake/QA fork/rdm/toothbar/subsoiler

  9. #29
    Epic Contributor Bird's Avatar
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    Default Re: Blade sharpening questions

    Quote Originally Posted by johnnylight View Post
    Bird,

    sorry about that.

    So what do you think is there something better in this price range?
    I really don't know, but those look pretty good to me. I'm not sure what grit the stones are on the cheaper one, but it shows those numbers for the higher priced one. I'd like to try them, but I'm not sure I want to spend that much money without knowing for sure that I'd like them.
    Bird

  10. #30
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    3,193
    Location
    North of Mtl,Que,Can (Ste Adele)
    Tractor
    MT180D

    Default Re: Blade sharpening questions

    I always think of a mower blade as an aircraft propellor.

    When 'dressing' a prop blade, it was considered very important to file out nicks as the nick could become the start point for a failure.

    The cutting edge of a mower blade need not be straight to work, just sharp and actually it is the tip that will do all the work as it contacts first.

    Balance is also important otherwise you'll shake your mower to pieces.
    You can 'guestimate' by visually remouving as much from each blade but the ultimate method is balancing the blade using a short shaft that sits on 2 knife edges mountet edge up.
    With the blade on shaft sitting on the edges, the heavier blade will hang lower.
    Simply grind off more from the heavy blade 'til the blade stays horozintal in the balancing jig.

    But do grind, file out those nicks to avoid projectile launchings.

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