Blade sharpening questions

   / Blade sharpening questions #21  
OK, but why do you need to dress the edge with a file?

Because he doesn't have any flap sanders. :D

I'm no expert, but from my understanding you shouldn't get the edge hot when finishing it. A regular grinding stone will work as long as it's done right. Flap sander take a little more to get the metal to blueish point you're trying to avoid.
Hence a tougher edge. Right :confused:

Wedge
 
   / Blade sharpening questions #22  
I agree, Wedge. You don't want to overheat the edge, and of course the sharper (thinnner) it is, the easier to overheat it. But, as you said, that can be done with grindstone if you're careful. I just wondered if there was a reason to use a file that I didn't know about. As a matter of fact, I don't even have a file anymore; used to have several. But I do have a 6" bench grinder and an angle die grinder. And of course, an EZE LAP Diamond Stone for knife blades.
 
   / Blade sharpening questions #23  
I agree with Timber. For the best sharpening I remove the blades and clamp them in a vise then use a flat file that is sharp. It really does not take very long and I have found you can get a much more consistent edge. By the way, I have used bench grinders, die grinders, and hand held grinders. If the blade is in bad shape I use a grinder but then follow up with a file.
 
   / Blade sharpening questions #24  
I grew up in the days when I had to use a file on the garden hoe, yo-yo (weed knife), axe, hatchet, etc. because we didn't have any alternative. So now I don't use those manual things if I can find an easier way.:D But yep, the old fashioned files do a good job.
 
   / Blade sharpening questions
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Bird,

sorry about that.

So what do you think is there something better in this price range?
 
   / Blade sharpening questions #29  
Bird,

sorry about that.

So what do you think is there something better in this price range?

I really don't know, but those look pretty good to me. I'm not sure what grit the stones are on the cheaper one, but it shows those numbers for the higher priced one. I'd like to try them, but I'm not sure I want to spend that much money without knowing for sure that I'd like them.
 
   / Blade sharpening questions #30  
I always think of a mower blade as an aircraft propellor.

When 'dressing' a prop blade, it was considered very important to file out nicks as the nick could become the start point for a failure.

The cutting edge of a mower blade need not be straight to work, just sharp and actually it is the tip that will do all the work as it contacts first.

Balance is also important otherwise you'll shake your mower to pieces.
You can 'guestimate' by visually remouving as much from each blade but the ultimate method is balancing the blade using a short shaft that sits on 2 knife edges mountet edge up.
With the blade on shaft sitting on the edges, the heavier blade will hang lower.
Simply grind off more from the heavy blade 'til the blade stays horozintal in the balancing jig.

But do grind, file out those nicks to avoid projectile launchings.
 
 
 
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