Nervous about first use of MMM

[Tom_Trees]

Here's the deal -- I've about an acre and a half that's never been mowed. Up til now, I've 'maintained' it with a string trimmer. There's a lot of twigs and small rocks out there just lying in wait . . .

I plan on running the yard rake over the area first, to get what I can. However, I'm much too familiar with the working of Mr. Murphy and know fair well I'll miss things./w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif So what else can I do to minimize damage to the blades, the deck, my nerves, /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif and trivialities like the house?/w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

Would I be better off running a rented brush hog over the area first? Or do I just throw caution to the winds and figure on examining the blades after the first pass?

Tom

 

[RoyJackson]

Your profile doesn't list a rotary cutter. If you can borrow one, fine...do that.
But, if not...set the MMM as high as possible.
Now, how high is the grass?
I believe you'll find the mower tougher then you think!

 

[Darren]

I agree with Roy, I've used a mmm as a brush hog and they'll take more abuse than you'd expect. I've mowed down everything up to almost 2" diameter. If it's too tall, I've used the FEL to shove it down so I can run over it.

 

[W5FL]

Sorry, but I don't know what MMM stands for. If it stands for finish mower, I know nothing about them.

I do know what a brush hog is. I have a 6 ft Medium Duty rotary mower. It will cut six inch rocks into 2 or 3 pieces and cut holes in a piece of pipe that is 1/4 in wall thickenss. My mower has chains on it to prevent throwing things and killing the driver or others nearby and a slip clutch. It is required that Brush Hogs used in commercial service have protection against throwing objects and it is usually in the form of heavy rubber guards or chains. I would not recommend or use a rotary mower that did not have this protection.

Back to your question. I assume you are concerned about hurting your mower. I would set the mower about 9 inches high and mow the area. Look over the area and pick up any rocks or limbs that are over 4 to 6 inches in diameter. Set the mower down to a normal mow height of 4 to 6 inches and mow the area again. Look over it and pick it up again as needed.

Most of us use a brush hog with the criteria if you can get it under the tractor, the brush hog can mow it. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Most brush hogs have a shear pin on the PTO shaft in case you run over something too large. An old tire can tear up the gearbox, so watch for one of those. Repair cost was $250 on an old mower I had when my son mowed a vacant lot and discovered the old tire. /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

 

[TresCrows]

MMM---means---Mid Mount Mower. These are the belly mounted finish mowers that are powered by the center PTO. PTO means Power Take Off.
Sorry to dissagree with folks--but--as usual--I will. I would not use my BX MMM or my 2410 MMM or any other finishing mower for brush hogging. Tall grass, yes, cut high and then low but if we are talking sticks and stumps and rocks and sapplings---Nada-- Nope--no way. These mower decks cost lot's of money. If you want to ruin 1500 to 2000 plus dollars investment just go buy a cheap old Murray from a box store and go on a demolition derby. Really, rent yourself a tractor and hog or hire it out for the first cut. Get yourself a small hog for your BX. I have seen small hogs and so called estate cutters from 38 inches up to 48 inches that work well for the BX. I hogged through some Sumac today, it sounded awfull loud with all the thwanging and crashing and whakking going on back there and it would certainly destroy a MMM in due time. Hogging is rough on a tractor anyway much less using the belly mower to hog. Sooner than latter you will tear it up. J

 

[Anonymous Poster]

<font color=blue>...I've used a mmm as a brush hog and they'll take more abuse than you'd expect. I've mowed down everything up to almost 2" diameter...</font color=blue>/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

Darren...

You must have the best finish mower ever built... /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif/w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif

Tom...

I wouldn't use any MMM for any purpose what-so-ever other than it's originally designed purpose of finish mowing... - light duty-grassy stuff... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

You'd be "money foolish" & "tractor illegal" to use a couple thousand dollar MMM for brush hogging purposes and in short order destroy it... you'd actually lose less money if you burned up a couple hundred dollar bills with a match... (also illegal...)/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

 

[Boondox]

Been there, done that with my little B1750 and mmm raised high, then low. The damage from hidden rocks, roots and branches cost me $$$. I now use a rear discharge finish mower on my L3010, but take extra care in the beginning of spring to walk my entire meadow picking up anything that might damage the mower. You'd think you only had to do it once, but every winter more stones and roots get pushed up into the danger zone.

If your grass is already grown to the point where hazards can't be seen on a walk-thru, I'd rent a brush hog the first time just to be safe.

Pete

 

[Golfgar4]

<font color=blue>"You'd be "money foolish" & "tractor illegal" to use a couple thousand dollar MMM for brush hogging purposes and in short order destroy it..."</font color=blue>

Yeah John, how's that old expression go? /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif Use the right tool for the right job. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[Darren]

When I consider buying an attachment I probably do what a lot of folks do in that I look at the specs. Typically the stuff I'm using on my 30 hp Kubota is rated for a lot more hp. The mmm which fits the machine was designed by Kubota to handle that horsepower. Suffice to say I use it to my advantage.

One of the reasons I went for an HST was the flexibilty it provides over any other transmission. You can inch along the ground and still keep the rpm up to take advantage of that 30 hp. From what I'm reading, it seems I've been running my Kubota "lawnmower" over terrain and the flora thereon that might give others pause.

From experience I can whack most of the autumn olive, mutiflora rose and sycamore saplings, albeit at a superslow ground speed. That's why I bought a 30 hp Kubota "lawnmower." It's doing a great job renovating old pastures in places a brush hog and tractor are a pain to use because of the terrain.

I didn't buy a Kubota because I wanted an orange garage queen. I bought it to work and I'm happy to say it's met all my expectations. Most times it sits out, mud and all until it's time to roll.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

<font color=blue>...It's doing a great job renovating old pastures in places a brush hog and tractor are a pain to use because of the terrain...</font color=blue>

Hi Darren,

I'm glad you're getting the most use out of your tractor.

Personally, I don't own a finish mower... I would end up destroying it within minutes of using it the way I use my rotary cutter. (different cutting purpose)

The main point I was trying to make... was using the proper implement for the right job. I've done this for many many years... I won't tell you something knowingly that is not true.

The next time you're down at the farm store, look at a rotary cutter and finish mower side-by-side:

Look at the different sizes in gearboxes...

Look underneath and see the "tiny" 3/8"x2" blades on the finish mower and look at the 1/2" x 4" blades on the rotary cutter...

Now tell me the truth... how long do you think that finish mower blades and gearbox will hold up cutting 2" saplings...?

I wish I could have found Bird's picture of his 10 acre pasture, with him "brush hogging" with his Howse rotary cutter... absolutely beautiful green lawn...