Just bought a 10-152 2 bottom Ford plow in fair condition and have some questions if anyone could help me. Is this considered a economy plow? I have moldboard covers on one moldboard but not the other and the parts manual shows none, which is correct? I see Farmwithjunk has moldboard covers on both bottoms on his rebuilt plow. Also I have a Kioti LK3054 and from outside to outside measurement for the rear tires is 52" which the manual says is correct. The question I have is where should the first bottom position be compared to the right rear tire? Thanks in advance for any help.
10-152 Ford plow
- Thread starter MoKioti
- Start date
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
The term "Economy" plow had more to do with the style of bottoms. Some had a moldboard and a share. The leading edge of the moldboard formed the shin. Some had a seperate REPLACABLE shin along with the moldboard and share. The version with the replacable shin were called economy bottoms when they were first offered. They became popular and were widely accepted. The share and the shin take 90% of the wear. Replacable shins allowed moldboards to remain useful for a much longer time. That saved the farmer a few bucks. (hence, ECONOMY...) The old style 2-piece bottoms became obsolete and were eventually dropped from production.
Cover boards (trash boards) weren't real common back in the day when that plow was new. Odds are it was an add on aftermarket part. Normally, they would be found on both bottoms, or neither. If I was to guess, someone might have put just one on the FRONT bottom to help prevent the plow from plugging when plowing in "trashy ground". (ie stalks, tall weeds, crop residue present) I prefer a plow with coverboards. They do a MUCH nicer looking job when plowing in sod, or with surface crop residue. A very popular brand of aftermarket coverboards was YETTER. Their version was usually made of black plastic.
Done CORRECTLY, the TRACTOR's width is adjusted to fit the plow, and NOT vice versa.
Outside tire width can be misleading. Plow manuals usually list that for a specific tractor model/brand. (with a known tire section width) In MOST cases, older plow manuals will be speaking to tractors with narrower tires/wheels than are common today. Many plow manuals will also list "track width" (center of tire to center of tire) But the most USEFUL measurement will be centerline of tractor to INSIDE of sidewall OR INSIDE of tire to INSIDE of tire.
To determine INSIDE measurement for the plow you have, take the total cutting width of the plow, (ie 2X12" would be 24", 2X14", 28", ect.....) The center of draft line is usually 4" to the left of 1/2 that measurement. So....a 2X12" plow's center of draft is 16" from the RIGHT side of it's width of cut. Now, add approx. 1" to 2" to that. That will give you a good centerline of tractor to inside of the RIGHT sidewall measurement. (That center of draft line wants to be in line with the center of the TRACTOR when the plow is in the ground) With that, a typical 2X12" plow would want 17" to 18" from center to inside of sidewall. A 2X14" plow would typically require 21" to 22" from CL to inside of sidewall. SLIGHTLY more than that is preferable to SLIGHTLY less.
The plow SHOULD run where the lead bottom's full cut is just to the inside of the right tire's sidewall. And with that, the 3-point top link should be running straight in line with the tractor's centerline.
Confused now?
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Thanks for the much needed help. Now that you mentioned it it looks like an add on. The one that's there is welded to the moldboard with a reinforcement piece also welded on. I guess I will leave it on sure can't hurt any thing. Fantastic job on the rebuilt plow. Can you tell me where I can get parts for the mine? I paid $150 for it so I can stick a few more bucks in it and not feel like I was "taken to the cleaners".
I will go out today try to align it to my compact. Sure wish I still had my 8N I think the plow was made for them and it was such a good tractor.
Reading thru the threads and messages I have the same problems as others in that I dig too deep or skim the top when I encounter highs and lows without draft control.
I bought the plow to turn over about 5 acres, disc a few times, and then box blade it just to take those highs and lows out so I don't rattle my bones when I mow (not as young as I once was).
Again thanks for all the help
I will go out today try to align it to my compact. Sure wish I still had my 8N I think the plow was made for them and it was such a good tractor.
Reading thru the threads and messages I have the same problems as others in that I dig too deep or skim the top when I encounter highs and lows without draft control.
I bought the plow to turn over about 5 acres, disc a few times, and then box blade it just to take those highs and lows out so I don't rattle my bones when I mow (not as young as I once was).
Again thanks for all the help
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
Do a search for "CRESENT FORGE". They sell plow parts and offer just about everything.
$150 for an intact, working 2-bottom plow is a BARGAIN. When you start replacing iron on them, get your wallet ready for a shock though. Not only are the parts expensive, but SHIPPING can add up in a hurry for all those heavy iron parts. A year and a half ago, when I did my latest plow, I spent well over $125 per bottom on replacment parts. Including the purchase price, paint, decals, and new iron, I ended up with close to $900 in that plow
Just 2 weekends ago, I FINALLY got to USE it! I plowed 16 acres (+ or -) That got the moldboards to shining!
$150 for an intact, working 2-bottom plow is a BARGAIN. When you start replacing iron on them, get your wallet ready for a shock though. Not only are the parts expensive, but SHIPPING can add up in a hurry for all those heavy iron parts. A year and a half ago, when I did my latest plow, I spent well over $125 per bottom on replacment parts. Including the purchase price, paint, decals, and new iron, I ended up with close to $900 in that plow
Just 2 weekends ago, I FINALLY got to USE it! I plowed 16 acres (+ or -) That got the moldboards to shining!
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Farmwithjunk
Super Member
Getting old beats the alternative to pieces though.....
Not yet. When I plowed the 16 acres, I took about 40 pictures. They haven't even been downloaded yet. At some point this winter, when I get caught up on my chores, I'll break them down and start posting a series of photos explaining how to lay off a field for plowing, and how to perform the basics of plowing an odd-shaped field. The 16 acres I did is roughly the shape of the state of Texas, with 2 steep slopes along each end. Tricky plowing at best. I'm hoping for sometime in Jan/Feb.
The Massey Ferguson #66 plow I rebuilt did an outstanding job!