Rear Blade 7' Rear Blade with Hydraulic Angle and Offset

[brianidaho]

The title pretty much says it all. I'm looking for a rear blade that offers offset capabiltiy primarily for snow removal. Around here the country is pretty hilly, many driveways are cut across the grade (sidehill). Being able to plow snow to the low side is required, and to maintain the roadway it's important to plow as wide as possible. Now, the problem with that is that it's real easy to drop a wheel off the low side of the roadway-not a good day at all! I'm thinking that hydraulic offset and angle would be really good things to have. I have a bit under 1/2 mile of road myself, and I'm looking to pick up some work from neighbors.

In addition, in the summer I'm looking at doing roadway maintenance and grading, so in addition to the above, gauge wheels might be a real nice thing to have to keep the whoop-de-dos down.

I'm looking at the Landpride RBT35 here:
Land Pride RBT35 Series Rear Blades
Only problem is that I don't see the gauge wheels as an option-I could always build something to address that issue though.

I understand the Woods RB750 might also do what I want:
Woods Equipment Company - 84'', 96'', 108'' & 120'' Heavy-Duty Rear Blades - RB Series

I plan on running these behind a Kubota L3240, do you think it's enough tractor for either of these blades?

Does anyone have any experience with either product, or any recommendations or comments? I would really like to know pricing on both as well. I'm also open to any other manufacturers out there.

Thanks,
Brian

 

[ronjhall]

I have the RB35 model of the blade. Use it behind a B2910. It works very well. The link you show list a Optional hydraulic gauge wheel for both models.
Using a rear blade to remove snow would not be my idea of a good way to clear a drive/road of snow. Here in MI I clear up to 18" of snow with no problems with a front blade.

 

[bkennedy]

I was thinking about the same Landpride blade with hydraulic angle on it for snow. I am up in Northern Ontario. I was hoping this size would be ok for putting behind a JD 2520. I wouldn't be getting it until I have some rear valves for controlling the hydraulics - right now I only have a power beyond loop for hooking up the BH.

 

[JB4310]

That Land pride looks sweet but if your primary use will be for snow, I think the mold board is to short (height wise) for serious snow work.
What's your avg snow fall? does that blade swing around 180* for rear push plowing?
JB.

 

[mwb]

I think you will find that a 7' BB will throw the tractor around on you. Friend has an L3400 w/ FEL with a 7' Buhler - has the power to pull it but the blade is very aggressive and it will pull the front end (in snow) off the road. He has been stuck MANY times because of this. He has added front chains to help with this.

I don't think your machine is heavy enough to handle this comfortably unless you use skid plates or gauge wheels on the BB - even for snow. You might be better to have a front mounted blade (as previously suggested) - at least if your machine is pushed sideways it will be away from your ditch or dropoff.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[brianidaho]

Thanks for all the information guys.

Ronjhall, they show the gauge wheel as an option on the RB35, I didn't see on on the RBT, with the hydraulics, perhaps I'm missing it.
***edited to add:
I stand corrected on the gauge wheel, it isn't listed on the specs, but they do show it in the manual, cool!

Im also concerned that the 17" moldboard height isn't high enough. The thing that makes me think I might get by is the offset, I can raise the blade and "wing" the tops of berms back to some extent. I'd like to hear from more people that use a rear blade on snow. rocks and really get jolted. I had a 6' front blade on my Shibaura, it was only about a foot tall and too lightly constructed, didn't work well at all. I'd plan on running skids, it's the only way to plow snow, otherwise you grab too many frozen

 

[JSharp]

I use a 7' back blade for snow on a tractor slightly larger and heavier than the OP's L3240. With loaded R1's there's no problem at all with it pushing the tractor around. He's probably going to need a 7" blade or he won't be able to clear his tracks with the blade angled.

That said, pushing snow with a back blade isn't much fun. It's what we do when that's all we have. As has been mentioned the moldboard on those blades is low so unless you stay ahead of the snowfall you end up trying to push snow that's so deep it's rolling over the top of the moldboard.

Plus you spend all of your time turned 1/2 around in the seat while trying to keep your speed high enough that the snow will "scour" off the side of the blade instead of just balling up behind it. Running too slow just adds to the problem of it coming over the top of the blade...

 

[brianidaho]

Well, I went ahead and ordered the RBT3584, I'll let you know how things turn out. I got the hydraulilc offset and angle, and ordered a set of skid shoes. I find shoes pretty important for plowing on gravel roads, at least without reversing the blade. I'll go ahead with the gauge wheel once the weather breaks in the spring and I can start with road maintenance.

We typically don't see more than 6-8" at any one snowfall, but it's often pretty wet and heavy. I'm hoping that the offset helps me wing back berms and keep a place to put the miserable white stuff. JB, that blade is reversable. With respect to the low mold board height, we'll hope for the best. I may have to add a wing or extension at the ends. This would make reversing the blade a pain though.

I used a 6' front blade on my current tractor, it was only 12" high, too short for snow removal. In addition, it was barely as wide as the tractor, I drove too close to the edge of the low side of the road and got stuck several times-still have a big dent in the back of my P/U from where the strap broke when trying to yank it out. I'm really hoping the offset capability of the rear blade helps out, keeping me more centered in the roadway. I didn't like the front blade for doing a length of road, it had a real tendency to dig in, and would stop the tractor RIGHT NOW, can't be good for the loader. I was nice though for smaller areas or a parking lot, where you had to push the length of an area and then up a pile.

I figure on chaining up the front tires to keep from getting kicked around so much, may have to go ahead and buy rear chains too. I'd hope to avoid that, both due to expense and the PITA of chaining up.

 

[JB4310]

It should work great, I thought maybe you were in an area that gets heavier snows that's why I said it might be to short.
With the offset like you said you can easily knock down the embankment, how far does it swing over?
What tires do you have, might not need chains if you don't have big hills.
Try and get some pictures of that offset in action.
JB.

 

[brianidaho]

It should work great, I thought maybe you were in an area that gets heavier snows that's why I said it might be to short.
With the offset like you said you can easily knock down the embankment, how far does it swing over?
What tires do you have, might not need chains if you don't have big hills.
Try and get some pictures of that offset in action.
JB.

You still might be right with respect to it being short...I'd be happier with 2' or so of mold board height, but it is what it is. The web site doesn't say anything about how far it offsets, but looking at pictures of it in action on the brochure I guess the offset arm swings to 30 degrees or more, given the length of arm I'd guess maybe 2' or so from center. I hope this helps both with berms and also by allowing me to keep one tire in a plowed area (once the first pass is cut). I'll have filled R4s. Ags might be better from a traction standpoint, but I want the extra width and puncture resistance of the R4s. We have plenty of hills! I guess I'll see how well things work without chains. My old tractor was probably 2/3 the weight of this one, with chains just on the front it was OK. Not great, but OK.