What attachment; Rack or ????

   / What attachment; Rack or ???? #1  

B2620

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Sep 17, 2008
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Upstate, NY
What attachment; Rake or ????

I just had a new pond installed and now have to clean up the mess and plant ground cover, grass, etc.
There are many rocks, rough soil and dozer tracks left take must be taken care of, in spring after the ground thaws, prior to planting.
Currently I have a Kubota B2620 with FEL, brush hog, front blade (used mainly for snow) and box blade.
In the spring, I could probably loosen the ground back up with the scaffers on the box blade and do some regrading/smoothing with it.
I cannot afford to buy 3 or 4 attachments. Taking this into consideration, what would be the best single or maybe two attachments I could buy to finish this job?
Thanks,
B2620
 
Last edited:
   / What attachment; Rack or ???? #2  
IF your slopes are not too steep you can do it all with your front blade and a landscape rake and have it ready to seed in no time. Back drag with the blade and finish up with the rake. A tiller would be good to incorperate the grass and plant material into the soil before back draggng and raking.
Sincerely, Dirt
 
   / What attachment; Rack or ???? #3  
I just had a new pond installed and now have to clean up the mess and plant ground cover, grass, etc.
There are many rocks, rough soil and dozer tracks left take must be taken care of, in spring after the ground thaws, prior to planting.
Currently I have a Kubota B2620 with FEL, brush hog, front blade (used mainly for snow) and box blade.
In the spring, I could probably loosen the ground back up with the scaffers on the box blade and do some regrading/smoothing with it.
I cannot afford to buy 3 or 4 attachments. Taking this into consideration, what would be the best single or maybe two attachments I could buy to finish this job?
Thanks,
B2620

This is what I use .
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/1378422-post10.html
 
   / What attachment; Rack or ???? #4  
IF your slopes are not too steep you can do it all with your front blade and a landscape rake and have it ready to seed in no time. Back drag with the blade and finish up with the rake. A tiller would be good to incorperate the grass and plant material into the soil before back draggng and raking.
Sincerely, Dirt

I know it's a bit off topic here, but is it OK to till in grass seed?? It doesn't put it too deep?? I have fairly sandy/clay type soil and was going to add some peat and topsoil prior to seeding. Do you think it'd be OK to put down all the peat, topsoil, and some fertilizer along with seed on top and then till it all in??

Thanks,

-Jer.
 
   / What attachment; Rack or ???? #5  
I just had a lot of excavating done at my house and I found the landscape rake to work very well. I did use a boxblade to dig down and get even more rocks that were just below the surface and then the rake to put on a pile for the FEL.
 
   / What attachment; Rack or ???? #6  
I know it's a bit off topic here, but is it OK to till in grass seed?? It doesn't put it too deep?? I have fairly sandy/clay type soil and was going to add some peat and topsoil prior to seeding. Do you think it'd be OK to put down all the peat, topsoil, and some fertilizer along with seed on top and then till it all in??

Thanks,

-Jer.


Most all species of grass (seed) prefer soil contact, but NOT deep planting. Ideally, you want seed no deeper than 1/4" in most cases. It takes sunlight to make seed grow. Burying the seed prevents seed from germinating in most cases.

It's better than just OK to incorporate the soil ammendments as deep as you want. Although, I'd rather have my fertilizer in the upper 2" to 3". Seed on the other hand, keep it shallow. I've had my BEST results by seeding directly on the surface, then using a cultipacker to press the seed into the dirt for good soil contact, then let nature do what she does best!


As far as the original question; Try a pulverizer. They'll do a certain ammount of grading, they'll rake up rocks and sticks about as well as a landscape rake, and will leave an ideal seedbed for grass. I had quite a bid of 'dozer work done at my farm a few years back. (waterways and filter strips) I follwed behind the dozer with one of these and was most impressed. And they make the best tool I've ever seen for grading gravel drives too!


Yard Tool
 
   / What attachment; Rack or ???? #7  
Most all species of grass (seed) prefer soil contact, but NOT deep planting. Ideally, you want seed no deeper than 1/4" in most cases. It takes sunlight to make seed grow. Burying the seed prevents seed from germinating in most cases.

It's better than just OK to incorporate the soil ammendments as deep as you want. Although, I'd rather have my fertilizer in the upper 2" to 3". Seed on the other hand, keep it shallow. I've had my BEST results by seeding directly on the surface, then using a cultipacker to press the seed into the dirt for good soil contact, then let nature do what she does best!


As far as the original question; Try a pulverizer. They'll do a certain ammount of grading, they'll rake up rocks and sticks about as well as a landscape rake, and will leave an ideal seedbed for grass. I had quite a bid of 'dozer work done at my farm a few years back. (waterways and filter strips) I follwed behind the dozer with one of these and was most impressed. And they make the best tool I've ever seen for grading gravel drives too!


Yard Tool


Thank you!!

-Jer.
 
   / What attachment; Rack or ????
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Most all species of grass (seed) prefer soil contact, but NOT deep planting. Ideally, you want seed no deeper than 1/4" in most cases. It takes sunlight to make seed grow. Burying the seed prevents seed from germinating in most cases.

It's better than just OK to incorporate the soil ammendments as deep as you want. Although, I'd rather have my fertilizer in the upper 2" to 3". Seed on the other hand, keep it shallow. I've had my BEST results by seeding directly on the surface, then using a cultipacker to press the seed into the dirt for good soil contact, then let nature do what she does best!


As far as the original question; Try a pulverizer. They'll do a certain ammount of grading, they'll rake up rocks and sticks about as well as a landscape rake, and will leave an ideal seedbed for grass. I had quite a bid of 'dozer work done at my farm a few years back. (waterways and filter strips) I follwed behind the dozer with one of these and was most impressed. And they make the best tool I've ever seen for grading gravel drives too!


Yard Tool

What is a pulverizer?
Thanks,
B2620
 
   / What attachment; Rack or ???? #9  
Here is a cheap and easy technique that'll do the trick!

Called a drag!

Go buy yourself a length of 'FROST fencing', say 4ft wide and 5-6' long.
At the front or leading edge add a length of angle, say 2" x2" and bolt that to the fencing using a flat bar on bottom side.
Attach some (2 lengths) of chain from each front corner that you will then attach to the rt and lt side of your tractor's tow bar or even to the 3pt arms if you don't have a bar.
Drag this around maybe adding some weight and you will have a nice finished surface and it will kinda just bury the seeds at the right debth.
With a few passes it will also break up any clumps that might have remained.

Cheap and easy!

PS; I have seen some guys simply drag an old bed spring with decent results.
 
   / What attachment; Rack or ????
  • Thread Starter
#10  
What is "Frost fencing"? is it like chain link fencing?

Thanks,
B2620



Here is a cheap and easy technique that'll do the trick!

Called a drag!

Go buy yourself a length of 'FROST fencing', say 4ft wide and 5-6' long.
At the front or leading edge add a length of angle, say 2" x2" and bolt that to the fencing using a flat bar on bottom side.
Attach some (2 lengths) of chain from each front corner that you will then attach to the rt and lt side of your tractor's tow bar or even to the 3pt arms if you don't have a bar.
Drag this around maybe adding some weight and you will have a nice finished surface and it will kinda just bury the seeds at the right debth.
With a few passes it will also break up any clumps that might have remained.

Cheap and easy!




PS; I have seen some guys simply drag an old bed spring with decent results.
 
 
 
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